[W.O.T. Stang]

When I had my 3.73s put in, i had a used traction lock kit put in my car since i didnt have the money at the time to afford new ones.

well, the stang does AWESOME 2 wheel burnouts now, but if i try to go around a corner and punch it (only tried once) it will start off 2 wheel, then kick back to one wheel when the car is straight again, and the car revs really easy, since its only burning with one tire.

I stopped again and tried a straightline burnout, and it burned 2 wheel the whole time, any ideas why it does this? i know the traction lock i had put in it only had about 2 or 3,000 miles on it, so it should be that, and it works fine in a straightline, just not around corners.... is this something that F150 spring that i hear about solves? or what does that do?

any help would be appreciated!

 

[Dave88LX]

I hear ya man, one wheel peel BLOWS! :barf:

 

[W.O.T. Stang]

I hear ya man, one wheel peel BLOWS! :barf:

Hey man, i didnt think you were still up, i was going to ask you, are those videos on your page before or after the lentech? i cant wait for more of them!

 

[Dave88LX]

Hey man, i didnt think you were still up, i was going to ask you, are those videos on your page before or after the lentech? i cant wait for more of them!

OK I'll break 'em down for ya Yeah, I'm still up..rather, I'm up now. It's 8 am

Before Lentech:
autobahn1
trannysmokerear :barf:

After Lentech:
bridgelaunch
openheaders
shifting
vette

New headers, stock H-pipe, flowmasters
rev1

Thanks man! I'm workin' on more, but I need a tripod or something or a light perosn in the back seat to take soem vids. But doncha worry, I"m werkin' it :joy:

 

[427Windsorman]

It might have been rebuilt previous to you getting it with extra clutch disks. That is all i can think of off the top of my head.

 

[W.O.T. Stang]

It might have been rebuilt previous to you getting it with extra clutch disks. That is all i can think of off the top of my head.

I know when it was rebuilt, a few of the clutch disks had the ears torn off of them, which i didnt know at the time, thats why it NEEDED rebuilt, and as far as i know, there was nothing extra added when the trak-lok was rebuilt.

 

[Winks]

well, the stang does AWESOME 2 wheel burnouts now, but if i try to go around a corner and punch it (only tried once) it will start off 2 wheel, then kick back to one wheel when the car is straight again, and the car revs really easy, since its only burning with one tire.

I stopped again and tried a straightline burnout, and it burned 2 wheel the whole time, any ideas why it does this?
any help would be appreciated!......

Does it only peel one wheel on right handers, but both when going straight or left?

When my car was brand new it would act as I just described. I thought it was broken until I found out most t-lok differentials do this from the factory as the differential even when "in spec" does not really provide enough torque bias to overcome substantial difference in traction between the tires. Under power the differential tends to lift the right tire and plant the left and a right hand turn adds to this effect, resulting in a one-wheel peel if the clutches can't handle it.

You could try alternating clutches, F-150 S-Spring, or bigger/extra shims to provide more "lock-up".

 

[Niks90coupe]

A trac-lok rebuild kit is $40. You put a used one in???

Nik

 

[MFE]

THe heavier spring won't really help that problem. What will is repacking it in a different order, replacing one steel on each side with an additional clutch and shimming it as tight as you can. This is a great setup that will withstand things like aggressive cornering, drag radials and slicks for a good long time.

 

[Rvaline]

If you keep stabbing the throttle coming out of a corner like from a stop sign like I think your doing , your going to have this problem with most any limited slip diff that uses clutches. It will always spin the inside tire. All you are really soing is burning your clutch packs. If you keep doing this you will eventually be stuck with one wheel peel. That is why if your are going straight both tires spin.. You diff is still working. Track locks are supposed to slip around corners, thats the whole point.

 

[MFE]

Yeah, but they respond to torque input by clamping the clutches harder, so while they're supposed to slip through a corner under no or low power, if you jump on it, it should spin both tires due to the increased torque input. Like I said, packing the diff with an extra clutch on both sides makes it work like it's supposed to for a lot longer and a lot better than it does from the factory. Only trade-off is some tight-turn clunking especially when it hasn't been driven in a while.

 

[Rvaline]

MFE, While what you stated was true, that the trac-loc reacts to torque input, they still cannot stay locked for very long in abusive type of stuff like flooring it and
cranking it to the right or left from a stop sign. This is like the worst thing for a clutch type of diff. This is the type of driving I was reffering to. The only thing I know of that will survive that type of crap is a ratcheting locker type of diff. Eventually you will end up wrecking the car if you keep doing this kind of crap I don't think that the POS track loc is that durable anyway.

Unkle Ronny

 

[Winks]

MFE, While what you stated was true, that the trac-loc reacts to torque input, they still cannot stay locked for very long in abusive type of stuff like flooring it and
cranking it to the right or left from a stop sign. This is like the worst thing for a clutch type of diff. This is the type of driving I was reffering to. The only thing I know of that will survive that type of crap is a ratcheting locker type of diff. Eventually you will end up wrecking the car if you keep doing this kind of crap I don't think that the POS track loc is that durable anyway.

Unkle Ronny

If you're spinning only one tire, then the clutches are sliding against each other and you're right, they are wearing out fast. On the other hand, if you're spinning both tires (regardless of whether your going straight ahead or "cranking it to the right or left") then the clutches aren't wearing out at all. At least that's my take on it.

 

[MFE]

MFE, While what you stated was true, that the trac-loc reacts to torque input, they still cannot stay locked for very long in abusive type of stuff like flooring it and
cranking it to the right or left from a stop sign. This is like the worst thing for a clutch type of diff. This is the type of driving I was reffering to. The only thing I know of that will survive that type of crap is a ratcheting locker type of diff. Eventually you will end up wrecking the car if you keep doing this kind of crap I don't think that the POS track loc is that durable anyway.

Unkle Ronny

I agree that's the worst thing on a diff but I disagree the only thing that will deal with it is a locker. I'm on my second season of autocrossing this particular T-lok rebuild, with two drivers using the car throughout the season, plus a couple trips to the drags, plus nice-weather daily driving with a heavy foot, all on drag radials, and it's just like the day I put it together. Autocrossing is about as close as you're gonna get to the "turn-it-and-floor-it" kind of abuse he's talking about and it's doing just fine. WAY better than either the stocker or the first rebuild I did without the extra clutches.