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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, does this stuff really work?

My car with the HCI swap the blower and the 2chamber flows is quite loud. I like the sound level on the outside lol but on the inside it's a bit too much. To the point of hurting my ears.

My car has no rear interior from the front seats back. Nothing but sheet metal.

What grade of mat should I try?

Can I layer it?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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I might put some of that stuff in the convertible... but the problem with it is wind noise, not road noise.

Any ideas on how to do something about that?
 

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the dynamat stuff is really expensive. I talked with a guy who spent a lot of bucks to completely dynamat his ford probe. He worked at an audio shop and told me that it wasnt worth it. He said it did cut down the noise that much. A waste of money in my opinion. The V8 should be music to your ears, not noise.
 

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468LC -

go here:

click on the link below, once on the page, click the "VIEW PHOTOS" button beneath the first picture of the photo album. This will take you directly inside the photo album to view nearly every aspect of the car... Pictures go from oldest (top) to newest (bottom).

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=ug7o8lr.zamxikz&x=0&y=-11rjjb

you will see pics of when I "insulated" my coupe.

Do not use Dynamat - it's too damn expensive!

Goto Home Depot - and go to the isle where all of the roofing supply stuff is. Look for a roll of roofing material that is half tar-like and half aluminum... It has a yellow label on it, I forget the name of it at the moment... Anyhow, these rolls come in 6" wide by 11 ft long. I think they are about $11 per roll. I used this same exact stuff in my coupe, on the entire floor pan (under the carpet). The stuff goes on easily when warm, and is super easy to work with.

Black side goes down, shiny side up. You can use a counter top roller (or something similar) to flatten out the material so it contours to the floor pan. I also purchased a cutting wheel, that resembled a "pizza cutter", so it was easy to cut the material in corners, and cutting it off the roll after being pressed to the floor pans. I started at the base of the firewall at the front, and went back up and onto the rear floorpan that is under the rear seat.

Let me tell you - the stuff WORKS... it deadens sound and also keeps out the heat & moisture from occuring under the carpet... There is not ANY smell at all (no tar smell), and I've had tons of folks ask why my car does not sound loud (exhaust) when on the inside... If driving around in my coupe with the windows up and nothign else on in the interior, the exhaust sounds super quiet nearly like a stock exhaust (BBK LT's, shorty offroad pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters & 2.5" pipe)... that's how well it works.

I forget how many rolls I used, but it was WAY LESS expensive to do than using Dynamat or anything similar. I researched the crap out of sound deadening stuff online, and they are all made of similar materials, just different name brands... The stuff at Home Depot is the way to go, if trying to keep the cost down, and it's SUPER EASY to use.

I laid all of the material going front to back, because this was the best way to get the most out of a single roll. I overlapped it about 3/4" onto the next piece as I was going. The entire floor pan is sealed completely.

Take a look at the pics above, look for all of the pictures that show the interior gutted (or no carpet) and the floor pan looks like it's silver... that's the stuff. My entire floor pan/trans tunnel is covered in that stuff from front to back and it makes one hell of a difference in sound and keeping the heat from the LT's OUT...

:)
 

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Did you put it on the roof too, Phil?

BTW, you da man for giving us that tip!
 

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Ya know, I thought about doing the roof - but I did something better there (that's in the pics too).

I removed the crap factory asbestos-like deteriorating foam from the ceiling once my old headliner was removed. I was able to go to a local supply house here, and picked up a roll of 3M self adhesive foam, which was really dense. It is like a thick rubbery foam, and very sound proof. It was 1" thick and I cut the foam to fit onto the roof (interior ceiling). Once I had the (2) "panels" cut that I needed for the roof, I then removed the paper from the self adhesive and applied the panels to the ceiling. I also used the same foam and cut my own C-pillar panel insulation and installed those on the rear C-pillars behind the rear interior plastics. After I did that, I then stuffed every single cavity in the ceiling with poly fill.... All of this can be seen in the pictures from when I had the car gutted...

Put it this way, you shut the doors on the coupe, tap the outer roof (metal), and go for a drive in it - it's pretty damn quiet... The car no longer sounds like a "tuna- can" when closing the door and when tapping the roof... I've got the coupe as quiet if not close to being "luxury" model (ie: BMW/Lexus, etc) quiet on the inside. Even "wind" noise from driving, is almost nearly non-existant....

I wanted a quiet interior and wanted to do it better than Ford ever did, even in their new models... and I think I did a pretty good job.

Anyone having sound deadening questions, please feel free to speak up or ask... take a look at the link I supplied above and you'll see exactly how I did the interior before installing all of the interior components.

:)

glad to help too!
 

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Steve, I thought Dynamat was to reduce vibration for ghettomobile stereos? I don't know if it will work as a barrier to cancel out road noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dave the object of the mat is to remove all outside noises to improve the acoustacal qualities of the interior of the car.

Phil I will check out all you info when I get home this evening.



BMXR I agree, the motor I have now is music to my ears but I am not ****ting you, after an hour drive my hears physically hurt.

Pain is not good in your ear. Every time I drive that car I am damaging my ears. Kinda scary.
 

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468LC said:
Dave the object of the mat is to remove all outside noises to improve the acoustacal qualities of the interior of the car.
Steve (& others) -

What I have done with my coupe WILL help with Steve's above statement & original posted questions (and Dave's question about canceling out road noise/decreasing vibrations). Not so much as to what I DID do to my car, but HOW I did it and what I used for materials, SPECIFICALLY the material I purchased at Home Depot. Trust me - it works, and it works just as well, if not BETTER than Dynamat or any similar product. The material is just as thick as Dynamat. It keeps out the road noise, stops the floorpans (or whole interior cavity metal) from vibrating, and also keeps out the extreme heat caused by most aftermarket exhaust systems especially running with an open h/x-pipe.

Take a really good look at all of the pics in the link I provided, especially those AFTER I had completed insulating the roof, the C-pillars, and the entire floor pan.

Some other things too in my car:

The rear deck, under it there is 1/4" piece of foam that also kills road noise from the trunk area and on both of my doors, behind each of the door panels, there is also super dense 1/4" thick 3M rubber-like self adhesive foam - this also kills the outside road noises (and any other noises/vibrations).

The biggest difference I noticed was right after I completed the floor pans - with NOTHING else in the interior and the car running and doors closed/windows up, it was already much quieter than before I installed the sound deadener stuff on the floor pans. A ton of the exhaust renosance (sp?) was eliminated just by doing the floor pans. I went over board with the sound deadener EVERYWHERE, because I wanted the cabin to be QUIET with the windows UP.... and believe it or not, the "Mustang drone" is almost 95% GONE...

:D
 

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How many rolls of that stuff did you need?
 

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The Saleen is jammed full of it. I lined the doors, under the seats, the entire trunk, and up under the rear seats. I don't remember preisely how much it took, but it was a lot and was tedious to put on (or I was just extra anal about it). It definitely helps, the only downside is a slight odor that it gives off when it is new...hard to describe, but I tended to leave the windows down in the garage for it to air out.
 

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Phil, how much weight do you think you added to your car? Just curious. I was considering Dynamat while my car's apart for a lot of the reasons you did yours but now I'm thinking about this. I was figuring close to $70 just to do both doors in D-mat... :rolleyes:

Carson
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah phil, how much weight are we talking since this is still a car that sees a lot of track time.
 

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oooooo..... weight? That's a good question... I really do not know how much weight has been added... but I do know the results are fantastic... :)

When you buy the rolls from Home Depot, they are kind of heavy, just due to the fact that they are ROLLED UP.... picture a roll of toilet paper, only it's made of a black tar-like substance and very nice aluminum... 6"x11ft.... when it's all rolled out, the actual weight is lighter, than being rolled up as purchased.

I think the total weight *may* be on the package when you buy it, but I cannot be 100% sure, since it was nearly a year ago I completed my interior and do not have any of the wrappers left over...

If I remember correctly I think I had used about 7 rolls... that was for the entire passenger/driver side floor pan, the trans tunnel to connect the floor pans, and the entire area that is under the bottom seat cushion. I did not use it anyplace else, other than the full floor pan....

I thought of using it inside of the doors, because it would work, but just did not do it, because I ended up using the 3M foam, which sealed off the door cavities once the door panels were reinstalled onto the doors.

That roofing material from Home Depot can be used ANYWHERE in the car to absord vibrations, to deaden sound, and keep out the heat from under the floor pans.

The stuff I used does NOT smell at all... even once it was applied, with the interior still out of the car, it did not smell... nor does it smell once the floor pans are heated from the exhaust. Never any smell at all.

The stuff can only be found at Home Depot. I went to Lowes and a few other places, and they had nothing that was similar. The stuff I used has a bright yellow wrapper on the roll, with I think green writing... it's silver with a black backing (the sticky stuff).

Trust me - if you guys really want to use something that works and don't want to pay the high prices of Dynamat or similar "car stereo" sound deadeners, this stuff is a good bang for the buck. I researched alot of crap online before I did mine, comparing the materials each product was made from, the thickness of each product and price - and once I found this stuff in Home Depot, it was the best bang for the buck and made of materials that did the job I needed it to do - silence, kill metal renosance and keep the heat out from the exhaust under the floor pans.

feel free to keep posting questions, etc. I wish I knew the combined weight, but do not know this...sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I will be taking look this weekend for it at Home deepot.

If I can do the rear floor pans and deck area and not add more than say 30lbs it's worth a shot.

How good is the adhesive on this stuff phil.

If I put some of this stuff on the vertical walls it's not gonna peel off in a year is it?
 

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JD - yes, it can be used just the same as Dynamat - for car stereo applications.

468 -

The stuff is really tacky after removing the paper backing. It goes on very very well in warm weather. What I mean is, the stuff is more pliable when warm, especially if working outside in the sun or working in a heated garage.

The key is to use a roller, as I had stated earlier. It's like a miniature paint roller, but, you can find them either made of wood, or a very hard rubber. They are used for applying/flattening out formica onto counter tops... I bought a small wooden style roller at Sears, in the paint/wallpaper section. This is also where I purchased the small "pizza cutter" like cutting tool. The formica roller, a larger one, you can buy them at Home Depot or Lowes, they are usually in the isle with counter tops, etc.

Those tools above, plus time is all you need to install the sound deadening material from Home Depot.

The first thing to do is make sure you have a completely clean surface. I used a shop vac to vacuum out the entire Mustang body shell once I had the entire interior stripped from it. After I vacuumed it, I then used a bottle Fantastic cleaner and a large cotton towel, and cleaned every single metal surface inside of the vehicle. Once it dried, I then used the shop vac one more time to make sure I got every spec of dirt I could out of the "work area". You need to clean the metal surfaces, just so you have a nice clean surface to adhere the material to. I mean, it will stick to a dirty surface, but the install won't turn out as well with "crap" under the surface of the material.

To install the sound deadener material we've been discussing, you start from the firewall.

Starting from the firewall, peel the backing paper off of it, press it down onto the floor pan and start using the roller(s) to flatten it out.

You want to get it snug up against the side rocker panel and as you go, so you have a pretty straight strip and are sealing the crease/gap between the floor pan and the rocker.

Use the roller to flatten the material to the floor pan. You can press on it pretty hard, and it will easily contour to the divets, dips and contours in the floor pans.

Once you get to the "wall" where the back seat's bottom cushion would be, slice the roll right there at the 90* angle. Just continue to flatten out the strip you just laid down with the rollers...

Once you are satisfied with that strip, start laying the next layer, except try to overlap it at least 1/4" or more onto the previous layer. Repeat this until you are done the entire floor pan (or whereever you may be applying it).

The key is to use the rollers and press pretty well into it. It is very sticky, and will adhere to any surface 100% once you have "rolled" over it. You can take it and just press it into place with you hands, but, that does not guarantee how well it adheres to the surface you are working with.

Remember, this stuff is use for roofing - to repair water leaks, seal gaps, keep out moisture, repel heat/cold, bridging gaps, stopping metal roofs from vibrating at the seams, etc.... It is applied in the same manner when needing to use it on a roof - applied by using a roller to make sure it adheres 100%.

I do not think it will peel off at all... not if you follow the steps I outlined above. If you just take it and press it on with your hands, it's not going to adhere AS WELL when using a roller to press it into place, know what I mean?

Once I had my entire floor pan done, I tried to peel up a little area to see how well it was adhering - basically, it was STUCK there - and when I did try to peel, it was not easy at all to remove, especially after being installed properly.

It just takes time to do it, that's all.... If you have the time, you're set!

I took my time in doing mine and really used the roller so I could get the material to completely contour to my floor pans. If you look at those pics again, you'll see all of the contours of the underlying floor pans... LOL! :D

This stuff can be installed INSIDE of the doors (on the back side of the actual door skins), anywhere in the interior, on the ceiling, etc.... just use the roller(s) when applying/installing it and do it in a warm area.


The one main reason there is "drone" in a Mustang is not only because of the positioning of the exhaust system, or the use of an aftermarket exhaust system, but mainly due to the fact that there is hardly ANY decent sound deadening material in those cars as they come from the factory...

If anyone has ever seen a totally stripped Mustang, down to a body shell, such as how mine was (and in my pics), you'll see all of the "holes" and cavities in the structure of the vehicle. These holes/cavities without the proper insulation or sound deadening material will VIBRATE and the renosance of the exhaust makes the cabin of the car in to a pure "echo chamber".... Some Mustangs are worse than others... When you use a material like Dynamat (or the Home Depot stuff), you're tying all of the flimsy metal together, so that it CANNOT vibrate, sealing up gaps/creases and by doing so, the renosance of the exhaust is dampened DRASTICALLY compared to what it was before... Mustang sheet metal is VERY THIN... I mean the roof itself is super thin... next time you go out to your Stangs, tap the center of the roof...

After I had insulated my entire interior as outlined in all of my responses above, my coupe is SUPER quiet on the inside when the windows are up.


Keep the questions coming.












:cool:
 

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So does this stuff leave a gooey mess after a couple of heat cycles and you need to peel it up to work on something. Let's say you do the doors and then a year later, need to get inside the doors for a lock actuator or something. When you peel this stuff off after it's been stuck to a metal door in 80-90 degree weather for a summer, is it going to be like scraping tar off the door to get it off? I'm imagining something like a butyl consistancy after being heat cycled.

The name of this stuff at the home center is roof flashing, correct?

Thanks for the tech

Carson
 
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