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Discussion Starter #1
The more research I do, the less I see solid combos running w/an E 303 stick. I'm seeing alot of the 2031 cams being used. To make a long story short, my car runs stupid. It's been running like this for 2 years now, and we're down to only a couple things that could be causing it.

Beings that the 2031 is made for my rotten PCM, would the swap be a good idea?

Major mods are: Cobra intakes, ported E7 heads, 75mm MAF, 24lb. injectors, full exhaust w/BBK LTs, 3:73s and a buttload more, those are just the bigger mods. Oh and it's a 5 speed also, if that matters.

Any input? Thanks! :joy:
 

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FakeSaleen said:
The more research I do, the less I see solid combos running w/an E 303 stick. I'm seeing alot of the 2031 cams being used. To make a long story short, my car runs stupid. It's been running like this for 2 years now, and we're down to only a couple things that could be causing it.
The problem is the E-303's LSA of 110. I think the 2031 is a much better cam.
 

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FakeSaleen said:
Yup, already have the 1.7s so I'm ok there. :D

Is this a possibility as to why my car could have such an odd behavior? Will I benefit from this in your opinion?

Thanks man! :joy:
1.7 RR's and an E-cam is something I personally wouldn't do. You might have some more luck with 1.6's. But still, I would swap the E-cam for the 2031.

Someone on here said a few weeks ago "Don't eat alphabet soup"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anaconda said:

Someone on here said a few weeks ago "Don't eat alphabet soup"
Hahahaha...I'm hearing more and more that the alphabet cams are way outdated and blah blah....

Sounds like a plan, one last question. When the 2031 gets installed, is it degreed straight up, or should it be advanced/retarded at all?

Thanks again :joy:
 

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I didn't really degree my cam, but the #1 piston was at TPDC, and I installed the cam straight up. It worked fine. It may be like 1 degree off, but nothing that I can notice.

You can degree it if you want. It certainly wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

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If running 'stupid' means a rough idle, then the 2031 might help, but other than idle, the E cam is going to perform about the same as the 2031. Their specs are a lot alike except for the LCA. The E is 110 and Crane is 112.
If you do make the swap, be sure to let us know how it turns out. Be sure to do some before and after dynos so you know what the real changes are.
If you are having problems other than a rough idle it is probably not the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Uggg really? My idle is actually fine, a little rough when it's cold but afterwards it's fine.

Well if it isn't the cam, could it have something to do w/the roller rockers not being set properly? I just printed out a how-to from crane cams website, and I don't believe my mechanic did half that crap they said to do.....like w/the proper shimming, etc.

Waddya think? :confused:
 

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nonstock said:
If running 'stupid' means a rough idle, then the 2031 might help, but other than idle, the E cam is going to perform about the same as the 2031. Their specs are a lot alike except for the LCA. The E is 110 and Crane is 112.
Ditto on that...I just got my E303. Kind of debating whether i should wait for heads or not. I know GT-40's are ok for stock, but theres no way they can make as much power as AFR's would...

No people running good on the E303?? I can point out 3 cars of the top of my head that ****in fly with the E303 and no other motor work. just GT-40's and the E303. Everybody seems to be going with the 2031...im sure its a good cam but im gonna try the e303 first
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well crap, it isn't the cam or RRs then....

My car has no power, at times it's worse than stock. My buddies 98 GT AODE hangs w/me! Everything has been looked over more than once, and I can't think of anything right now that hasn't been replaced....

Heheheh anyone have any ideas? It just seemed to me like a timing issue, like my cam was outta wack....hhhmm thanks for the input guys, it's appreciated! :joy:
 

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Those Crane 1.7's may, repeat may need to be shimmed. Anaconda< I am assuming yours torqued down properly without going too far? Or do you have a different brand(not in your signature what type). With My GT40Y heads mine all took the bigger shim in the pack. Once you do 2 cylinders it will determine what shim to use and away you go. If you didnt shim them that could be some problem. I had a friend who threw them on at the track without shimming them and ran just fine(high 12's) but a little noisey. He got back and shimmed them properly after. Just follow their instructions, Crane has the best instructions for everything I have seen!;) BTW, I swear I saw Summit getting about 175.00 for that cam in their catalog???
 

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DZAHER said:
Those Crane 1.7's may, repeat may need to be shimmed. Anaconda< I am assuming yours torqued down properly without going too far? Or do you have a different brand(not in your signature what type). With My GT40Y heads mine all took the bigger shim in the pack. Once you do 2 cylinders it will determine what shim to use and away you go. If you didnt shim them that could be some problem. I had a friend who threw them on at the track without shimming them and ran just fine(high 12's) but a little noisey. He got back and shimmed them properly after. Just follow their instructions, Crane has the best instructions for everything I have seen!;) BTW, I swear I saw Summit getting about 175.00 for that cam in their catalog???
I hand torqued my Crane 1.7 Roller rockers. I just bolted them on, hand tightened them, and did a clockwise torquing pattern, where I tightened one rocker and kept rotating.

I usually read the instructions ONLY IF something breaks.
 

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I'm running the E with 1.7's, 6037's, and Cobra intake. The powerband is much like my stock cam was with the same combo, just stronger across it. While power likely peaks at 5300-5400rpm it stays very flat all the way to the rev limiter at 6400. The idle is the only stupid running problem I've had to deal with. It surges like a mofo on cold start. It is extremely rich at cold-idle which causes the surge. Some people have reported this cam making them part-throttle lean, my chip had already addressed this because of the part-throttle issues I used to have even with the stock cam. You also have to tweak the set screw on the IAB a little bit to go with the weather (kinda like a carb car). Once it started warming up, I was getting the surge even once warmed up, the screw needed opened another half turn. I suspect that when the 90 degree weather hits, I'll have to do it once again. Honestly, for as many problems as I've expected to have running this cam, it's been pretty manageble, and the quirks have been easy to deal with.

I may be able to help with some of your problems if you go into some specifics.
 

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Check out my sig and powershifts...its like we went to the same store the same day.
I run the E 303 and yes it comes with baggage but when you start messing with these procesors without any tuning prepare to compromise these ease of stoping and going and stoping and going...I would personally go with the crane or a custom.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow, thanks for all the info guys. I'll check into that shimming idea w/my 1.7s. What is it that tells you that they actually need to be shimmed? I can check for this, this afternoon.

Also, on a different note....I'm gonna take out the spout connector today too, and set my timing to 30-32ish. I'm reading on stangnet that alotta guys get good results by doing this. Have you guys ever tried this yourselves?

Thanks again! :joy:
 

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Fake, read over those Crane instructions and you will have no problems!;) It was good info guys. Going with the 2031 next also!
 
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