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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

My new engine is about to be shipped to me, and I expect that I will be ready for final tuning in about 6-8 weeks from now.

I´ve read lots about people having their cars dynotuned after major modifications, and I just want to know what can actually be done with a ´94 Mustang.

My new setup is a 347 (10.2:1), TFS TW´s, Holley Systemax II, AFM N-412 cam, 1.6 rr, 30# injectors, Pro M-80, 70 mm tb, AFM powerpipe, Walbro 340, and a custom 4stage JMS chip burned for this combo.

What tuning can actually be done to this combo without having the chip changed once again? What can I get besides a print of rwhp/rwtq?

Anything I should specificly request for ?

What kind of rwhp/rwtq should I expect?
I have asked JMS to make a safe tune because reliability and driveability is more important than maximum hp/tq.

later
Anders
 

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30 pounders sound like a little much for an n/a combo, unless you are turning a ridiculous amount of RPM. I'd stick with 24's and make sure you have an adjustable regulator and guage, and

You want to go to a dyno shop with an o2 sensor.
On the dyno you can tune your A/F ratio (a little rich if you want safety and reliability) and play with your timing to see where your engine likes to run. Each individual engine is different, and it depends on your gas. Go to the dyno shop with whatever fuel you normally are going to run. Mine likes 12* with my normal fuel, but picks up a few horses with higher octane and a couple of extra degrees.

I've run mine on a dynojet and a Mustang Dyno, and I prefferred the Mustang Dyno because it is more versatile, I could test my MPH, get an A/F ratio printout, and even did a simulated 1/4 mile run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

Any good estimates on what kind of rwhp/rwtq I should see (without trying to squeeze it too much)

What would you estimate powertrain loss to be with a modified AODE like mine (Art Carr 9 inch lock up converter, super rebuild kit, manual diode kit, modified pump and some other stuff that I don´t remember)?
 

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AJMcCurdy said:
30 pounders sound like a little much for an n/a combo, unless you are turning a ridiculous amount of RPM. I'd stick with 24's and make sure you have an adjustable regulator and guage, and
Too much for a 347 with heads, cam, intake and other stuff? A good tuner can give you stock drivability with 30lb injectors, and you will most likely need the extra fuel. I think you would be damn near maxing out 24lb injectors with your setup. Its better to run bigger injectors at a lower duty cycle then to run smaller injectors at their max. Just make sure the maf is calibrated for them, and make sure the tuner does a good job with everything.
 

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agreed, keep the 30lbers. id say you could get 380rwhp/380rwtq fairly easy from that awesome combo spinning to the low 6k rpms.
 

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maybe i was a little to optomistic...id say be content with 350-360 RWHP/RWTQ.
 

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Anders,

The advice about getting a wideband measurement of your A/F is good. Make sure the chip settings are not giving you something you didn't bargain for.

Regarding the 30-lb/hr injectors, you will be fine there. To give you an idea, I run a high rpm naturally aspirated 347 at the dragstrip and with 38-lb/hr injectors, they run 95% duty cycle between 7,000 and 8,000 rpm at WOT. I am putting down 474rwhp with my setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the answers.

The MAF is of course calibrated for the injectors.

The chip is not very aggressive and has been burned with this exact combo in mind. Another important role of the chip is to make the AODE perform a bit better. Shifts firmed up, modified shift retard and what else needed with the 3.73 gear.

The different settings on the chip will let me choose from 2% leaner than stock to 4% richer than stock at WOT.

How do you measure the duty cycle of the injectors and how is the A/F ratio measured on the dyno?

Anders
 

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AJMcCurdy said:
30 pounders sound like a little much for an n/a combo, unless you are turning a ridiculous amount of RPM. I'd stick with 24's and make sure you have an adjustable regulator and guage, and

OOOPS! Missed the 347 part. That's what I get for reading while on the phone with the hazmat guy. Yeah, I'd go with 30 pounders until finding the duty cycle. You can do that with an equation-I don't remember what it is, and my handbook is back at home in Iowa.

The dyno shop will be able to get your a/f ratio by sticking an oxygen sensor in your tailpipe, or if it's a really picky shop they will weld a second bung in your h-pipe for another set of sensors to read off of, then the dyno can track your readings and either show a separate graph or show hp-a/f side by side.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys. I´ll see what is available here in Denmark ....
 

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Im using 30 lb'ers on my NA 347 also.....dyno'ing it this spring, also have a JMS custom chip.
 

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Another thing that a dyno can do for you is to see what your fuel ratio is at a rpm range you normally drive at, say 2,000 rpm's in fifth gear. I had a serious bucking problem that was a 18-1 fuel ratio. I had no idea what the bucking was from until i ahd it on a dyno at Anderson Ford. Rick Anderson and I sepnt a few hours just running at around 60-70 mph and tuning my PMS to the proper fuel ratio. Needless to say I am running much better without all of that bucking from an ultra-lean ratio.
 
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