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Discussion Starter #1
Concidering I've not had a large amount to work with and have previously never pulled/swapped an engine before, I think I'm trucking along very well.

Saturday: First off, I didn't get started on the actual wrenching untill late Saturday afternoon. Much of the morning after breakfast was spent jacking up the stang and securing it with jack stands and making sure I had proper tools ready an on hand.

BTW: I'm useing nothing but hand tools. I unfortunately do not have acess to air powered tools or a compressor.

the next 5-6 hours was spent removing the hood draining fluids, pulling hoses, disconnecting wire plug connections in various places, pulling the radiator and front accessories to make more room. I called it a night after that. I decided I'd need alot of rest for Sunday's work that needed to be done.

Sunday: I didn't get started untill about 2:00 Sunday afternoon due to church, lunch, and changing into some cloths I didn't care if they got messed up. Spent most of my time on my back rolling around underneath the stang. I removed the starter, power steering pump and A/C copressor and moved them out of the way but left the hoses still connected as I didn't want to loose steering fluid or Freon out of the A/C. I then dropped the stock H-pipe...let me tell you, that was a pain to get to the passenger side manifold bolts. with the starter and h-pipe gone, I started to work on unbolting the tranny bellhouse from the rear of the old motor. Some of those bolts were a PITA to break loose. After that, I decided to go for the motor mount bolts. Those were the biggest PITA out of all the nuts and bolts. I ended up taking the front rims off to get to the small acess holes in the stock K-memeber. I had to use two extentions and a universal swival joint to still reach it. ( I wish I had a D&D K-member now....grrr) I then got the motor lift brackets onto the old motor and jacked it on out. It came out with very little problems. Motor was offically out around 10:00pm and i called it quits for the day.

Monday and yesterday after work I had a littel time to work on the old and new motors (for about 2-3 hours each evening). I spent that time transfering the fuel rails and coil packs, coil pack front brackets and engine wire harness since I'm reusing the 98 EEC and fuel system. I also tranfered vacume tubing and various other hoses from the old motor to the new one. I had to improvise a lil with the tubes from the PCV valves since there is a slight difference in tube bends. I also bolted up the KC clutch, flywheel, intake spacer, ran the FRPP 9mm wires, and SVO shorties while it sat on it's pallet(all new parts ordered just for this swap). Not bad for about 5-6 hours work spread over two days time.

Somtime this week I'm goin to have to bolt up my new motor mounts I have and replace my tranny mount with a new one too.
I plan on having the engine ready to drop in this saturday and have it running Sunday.... haha, wish me luck.

Jake
 

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sounds good man. i'am replacing a head gaskett on an 00 motor thats going in my 96. I think i will drop the kemeber thought maybe a little easier. well good luck and maybe you can help me out in the future:D late
 

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Congradulations!!

Good work and I commend the good old yankee ingenuity regarding changing out a motor and never doing it before.I think you are doing great just take you time and check everything twice for torq and wire connections.
;)
 

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I just did the swap in my 97gt and man you are going to love it .... its like night and day and I feel that with the 96 to 98 fuel system the engine makes more power , not sure going to get mine dyno this weekend ..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm sooooo excited about the finished setup. I can't wait to feel the power and hear it run with my new exhast setup.....*drool* :joy:
 

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I do not know what system you are going with but when I did my swap I went from having mac shorty/h-pipe pro camber/mac cat-back .. but when i swap everything over I changed to BBK longtube/BBK h-pipe/mac cat-back amd the change is big! I just love the way it pulls in any gear for that matter.

One thing I have not asked you about if you come accross the problem yet , the temp sensor ??? Well on the 96-98 the intake has two places for the temp sensor , one is for the computer the other is for the temp gauge on the dash. People are going to say just use a t-tap and it will run fine. Well when I did the samething I had access to computer to read how the car was running and it does make it run a little hotter..

What I ended up doing was getting the upgraded intake that has the alum waterjack , and drill and whole and tapped a autometer gauge so that i get the best reading , Then we put the car back on the computer and it was turn the fan on a good couple degrees early then it was.


But again ,, YOUR GOING TO LOVE IT !!!!!!! and I can't wait to get a blower put on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Southerstang-

I did the T-fitting thing on my engine. Since I have a '02 motor, I also have the aluminum water crossover passage on the intake. I don't have the tools to tap it and make a spot for the sensor right now. I will later if it becomes a serious problem. I'll deal with it after I actually get the car running! Weather right now is pretty cold. I can prolly get by with the sensor T-fitting untill it starts to get warmer. By the time it starts to get hot, I should have the sensor issue resolved. I'm also looking to get a 180* thermostat as well. I just need to find a good brand that's at a good price.

The exhaust setup I'm goin with is as follows:
SVO/FRPP shorty headers, MAC o/r h-pipe with MILs, custom mandrel bent side exhaust. I decided to go with this set up so I could slap my stock h-pipe back on in case the state goes to an emissions controled state/visual inspection. I would have liked to have LT's but the pain of ever having to drop the tranny in the future and the fact I had already purchaced the MAC h-pipe before I chose headers and didn't want to have to get another mid pipe to match with LT's.
 

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yup I hated the fact I had to change from the shortys to the longtubes , they where not cheap by no means . but I just put a new clutch in at the sametime i did the swap , I know its going to be a batch later when I have to put a new one , but hoping that will be years down the road. But from shorty to longtube is just like the engine swap " night and day" the longtube are so much better...

Now for the alum part to tap you will need a 5/8 drill bit and a 3/8 tread tapping bit , was easy to drill it out and then put that wet weld stuff so I have no problems and the autometer reads real nice. now for the 180* thermostat Hypertech is the only one i have seen/heard about being any good ., and nthey cost 20bucks ,, you car is going to run fine , just a couple degree diff from the t-tap and drilling and tapping the sensor ,,, but I like it to be the best it can be ... so when you have time make sure you tap the sensor ,,, see the problem is that the sensor has to sit sideway in the t-fitting so the whole sensor does not fully get in the coolant and also with the t-fitting you will have a air in the fitting. So the best way it can be done it tap it right behide the thermostat , so I know that if I ever see my autometer gauge go over 210 or 215 temp that there is a problem ,,,
 

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Sweet man. I got my PI heads in a few days ago and i'm waiting to get some more money so I can have them ported and get a set of headers. I can't wait 'till I can install all that stuff in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Southerstang-

Thanks a hell of alot on the info on the bit sizes. That right there is gonna save me a hell of alot of guess work later.

:joy:

And I'll look into the Hypertech. Advanced Auto wanted to charge me 32.00 for one of their 'performace in house brand' 180* thermo's :rolleyes: I try not to buy much from there if don't have too unless I can't find anywhere else. And I'm sure as hell am not goin to trust Advanced Auto brand stuff on something like a thermostat.
 
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