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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think my T5 might be on the way out the door. After it is warmed up if I put it in neutral it won’t go back into gear unless I turn the motor off. Fifth and reverse are getting harder to get into it seems as well. New clutch, TOB, & cable. If I leave it in gear it’ll take off and & shift.
So, I need a snake oil for a minute. :cry: Has anyone had any luck limping along a little further by using something like Synchromesh? It’s to my understanding that synchros need a little friction to work, so maybe/hopefully a thicker fluid (Synchromax, ect) might bandaid it for a minute. Any old timer tricks?
 

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That sounds more like an energized input shaft than anything else. Did you replace the pilot bearing when you did the clutch. Did the problem happen before the clutch? If the car is up in the air do the wheels turn while in gear with the clutch disengaged? It's really easy to rebuild a t5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
That sounds more like an energized input shaft than anything else. Did you replace the pilot bearing when you did the clutch. Did the problem happen before the clutch? If the car is up in the air do the wheels turn while in gear with the clutch disengaged? It's really easy to rebuild a t5.
The problem happened after the clutch but not right away. Not long after the clutch was put in the oem clutch cable stretched (TOB was rattling) and it started having these issues. I’ve replaced the cable & quadrant (tried several cables now) but the problem still remains. I’ve adjusted the cable until I’m blue in the face. Tighter/looser, same thing.
I tried to jack it up to see if the wheels would spin and they didn’t. But at that time as luck would have it wasn’t “locked out of gear.” It shifts ok before it gets up to operating temp. Last week a new TOB and retainer were put on. I was thinking maybe both got dinged up when the cable was loose and the TOB was rattling. But the new parts didn’t help.
Pilot bearing maybe? I’m pretty certain it was replaced with the new clutch. The clutch wasn’t done yesterday, but it has prob has 1500 miles or so on it.
 

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I’ve seen cables almost want to seize up when they get warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve seen cables almost want to seize up when they get warm.
I’ve tried three.. it’ll shift when it’s moving. If I put it in first & leave it before coming to a stop it’ll take off and shift. If it does get stuck in gear or neutral it’ll go into gear if the motor is off and then get back to shifting normally while moving with a warm cable.
 

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My suggestion is to get it hot to where the problem is happening then do the in the air test. If you've used a Valejo brand clutch that could be the issue. I've seen a few people say on 94/95 that brand clutch didn't release properly and replacing it resolved the same issue you're having.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My suggestion is to get it hot to where the problem is happening then do the in the air test. If you've used a Valejo brand clutch that could be the issue. I've seen a few people say on 94/95 that brand clutch didn't release properly and replacing it resolved the same issue you're having.
It’s a Centerforce clutch and it was good for a little while until the original cable went bad.
Do you think a bad pilot bearing would be hard to hear over loud exhaust & motor noise?
Another thing to note is that I’ve adjusted the cable tighter and looser while it’s stuck in neutral w/ the motor running and it didn’t help to get it in gear.
 

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You probably can't hear a pilot bearing over exhaust but if it's the problem you would be able to reproduce it with the tires in the air when it's hot and happening.
 
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I like Lucas ATF fix for one that doesn't shift smooth.

I bought a car with a transmission that was messed up. The cause was the pilot bearing was not installed all the way.
 
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Have you checked the fluid level?

OEM cables are best, aftermarket adjustable really aren’t even worth the time to install.

something not mentioned yet is the bearing retainer, it can get galled up preventing smooth operation.

given your symptoms, I would say the top 3 possibilities are fluid level, pilot bearing, or an internal issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have you checked the fluid level?

OEM cables are best, aftermarket adjustable really aren’t even worth the time to install.

something not mentioned yet is the bearing retainer, it can get galled up preventing smooth operation.

given your symptoms, I would say the top 3 possibilities are fluid level, pilot bearing, or an internal issue.
Haven’t checked fluid lately, but it was replaced not too long ago. The bearing retainer was replaced last week, no dice. They don’t make an OEM cable for the ‘94/95. Your choices are aftermarket cheap, “adjustable,” or MM’s “universal cable.” I’ve tried Max Motors, which is longer than the 94/95 oem, a Ford Performance, and an SVE adjustable cable. The Ford Performance & SVE are shorter than the 94/95 OEM. That being said it acted the same with all three cables.
 

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The MM is a modified OEM, but you have to use the MM quadrant and firewall adjuster with it.

it is longer though, I think it’s a 96+ version
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The MM is a modified OEM, but you have to use the MM quadrant and firewall adjuster with it.

it is longer though, I think it’s a 96+ version
Yeah it’s a modified ‘96+ and it’s quite a bit longer. I’ve adjusted the firewall adjuster until I’m blue in the face. The say is it’s stuck in gear it’s too loose but no amount of tension helps. The shifts feel different depending on cable tension, but it doesn’t help with getting struck in gear. I had it on MM’s recommend 5-8 lbs of pressure to move it off the stop .5” and I’ve had it tighter. Both ways it’ll get stuck in gear or neutral when not in motion.
 

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Yeah, you need the MM adjuster and quadrant too if youre going to use their cable. I have both laying around somewhere if you are looking. I switched to hydraulic and honestly, I wouldnt go back to a cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Synchromesh to the rescue for now maybe. I adjusted the clutch from where the drivetrain shop had set it when they did the tob retainer last week (the release was way off from the floor), and I changed trans fluid and I used Valvoline synchromesh. Mercon was in there and there was too much of it. The last time I changed the fluid is when I replaced the shifter so I filled it from the top and I poured 3 qts in there. This time I filled it from the side using a pump and I had about 4oz or so left when it started running out of the hole. Anyway it’s shifting smoother/easier and it’s not getting “hung up” to where it won’t get in gear. The first trip around the block was still a little notchy the first time around the block but it got better with each mile. We shall see what tomorrow brings. Maybe I can get by on gettin by for a little while.
Synchromesh- shts kinda high, nearly $10 a qt.
 

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Mercon V is $10/qt now too, if you buy it from one of the parts stores
Ridiculous
 

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For future reference, pull the fill plug and fill through the shifter. When it gets full it pours out the fill plug hole. That's how i always do it. Usually takes a little over 2.5 quarts unless the trans was disassembled and bone dry.
 
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