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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a used T5 for my '93 4 cylinder. I don't know anything about it other than the seller said it works fine (car wrecked), and I have it apart looking-and see nothing wrong. It's a 3.35 94-95 v6 box, going behind maybe 300 engine HP turbo 2.3, street car but I drive it not hard, but spirited and the stock T5's shift quality is a little on the notchy side. I know the input shaft is different...that is being addressed as we speak.

For you guys who do your own T5's, is there anything that I can do while rebuilding it with new synchro's that can improve it's shift quality? No I have not bought any parts yet but have bearings, seals, etc leftover from prior rebuild.
 

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The T5 should shift like butter. This transmission is known for its excellent driveability and gear engagement.
 

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If you are primarily looking at good shift quality, I would look real close at the sliders and syncro teeth on #2 and 3 mainshaft gears. A good proper shim up job on the counter gear and mainshaft goes a long way also.And of course a good quality lube.
 

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The best bang for the buck. Tighten the end play in both the main and cluster. 0.000- .001 on the cluster and .000 - + .001 on the input.
 

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The input shaft will be too long. You will need a spacer or to swap out the input shaft for a Fox length unless you are also running the 94-95 bell housing.

EDIT: whoops I missed the input part of your post on my first read.
 

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I switched to bronze shift fork pads and I noticed a huge improvement in how "tight" the trans felt when shifting.
 

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While its apart I would go ahead and upgrade to Billet shift keys, and a bronze shifter bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
While its apart I would go ahead and upgrade to Billet shift keys, and a bronze shifter bushing.
I have them but what is the advantage of billet keys? They look identical to the OE ones I pulled out, other than being stronger billet material.

astro is cutting an input shaft.
Bronze shifter cup bushing—where’s an advantage there? Is NVH going to be a big deal with it? Remember—this is a 4 cyl application

have all the synchros done. 2nd and third gear look absolutely brand new as does everything else inside including the sliders. 5th slider was a little worn but I could t see the wear without a magnifying glass, replaced the gear and slider anyway since I had them from a previous project. I’m very impressed with it all given it had 70 some thousand miles on it.

bronze fork pads done.
 

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Billet keys don't wear and scored up and the bushing tightens up the shifter. Every little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Next question, and there are a ton of different opinions out there. I'm about ready to button this thing up but before I do I need to adjust end play of the input. With no shim at all, I'm at .038". One shim I have is .032, and I've got some others as well. With .032 shim that leaves me .006" endplay. The next shim thickness I have is a .010" shim, leaving me with .004" preload. One bearing is new, the rest are perfect used bearings. Is .004 preload ok?
 

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Try the .004 . Then wack the input and output with a dead blow hammer or a block of wood and a good size hammer. You might end up right where you want to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I played around with it some more. Tried the hammer trick and couldn't really get anywhere with it, so I fumbled around in the shed & found some scraps of sheet steel of which one was BARELY big enough to make a shim out of. Found some that was .040", cut out a shim and sanded it flat after letting it sit in the press for a while with some pressure on it between two flat plates. Got the preload down to right around .002 which I think I'll let it ride at that. It's not a cobra style input, just a standard 3.35 box that will be on my little 4 cylinder crapbox. If I can ever get to, I might try to run it in the stick shift bracket class at the drag strip. Wonder if I can squeeze a 14 second ET out of it? 1/8 mile that is....LOL.
 
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