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Discussion Starter #1
Right now, shifting to 2nd, 3rd, or 4th with the RPM's above 2000, the gears grind. I can either shift slow so the RPM's fall, or double clutch it. But I've been doing that too long, so I'm going to fix it.

I think I just need new brass blocking rings? I think that will keep the gears from grinding when shifting at higher RPM's.

While I've got the transmission out, I'm going to get a sleeve kit for the crank. If I change out the rear main, it will just leak. I think the rear main seal has worn a groove in the crank.

I'll get the sleeve kit, a new rear main seal, new pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and replace the clutch disc.

When I'm taking the T5 apart, any "gotchas" to know about? Or any tips? I just want to change out 3 brass blocking rings.

Should I use red or blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts? I'm thinking blue.. But maybe red?
 

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If I were you, I'd do a full rebuild using a D&D 94-piece rebuild kit, especially if you have quite a few miles. It sounds like just the blockers now, but you should go easy on it until you get it pulled and rebuilt. The blockers on the WC T5's are friction-lined; if you find brass blockers, do yourself a favor and pitch the whole thing ASAP, LOL!

Do a search on T5 for some discussion/info from the lst few days...

Blue Loc-tite, so you can remove it later :)

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can get the 3 brass blocking rings for $9 each locally. I just need this thing to last a little longer. Hopefully a TKO someday..
 

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Are you sure they are brass? If not, I have a few used 'spare' friction-lined blockers if you need them...

Chris
...ex-Okie...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm pretty sure their brass. I've had this apart twice before, but it's been so many years, I've forgot all the little details about the inside of it. I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

I'll email you if mine aren't brass.

Thanks.
 
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