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T-56

It didn't go through. Who's using the t-56 and what install issues did you have? Also, what clutch and bellhousing? Thanks.
 

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I ordered the T-56 kit from D&D Performance. The installation was pretty straight forward. I recommend this route. Also, I don't think anyone can beat D&D's prices and their service is great.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

Did you get the standard or blueprinted? Did your kit come with the driveshaft,yoke,shift, and everything else needed for the install?
 

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I got the standard since D&D said it can handle well over 600 hp. I got the cross member, drive shaft, shifter etc. from D&D. I didn't need the speedometer cable since I rerouted the stock one just fine. You will need to pick up the reverse lockout switch. I don't think D&D sells anything for them.
 

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how much did the kit cost you total? did you have a shop install it? how much would labor on that run? I hope you dont mind me asking, thanks man!
 

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I put the D&D kit in mine. I bought the transmission, bellhousing, and crossmember relocation kit from them. I already had an Aluminum Driveshaft, so I had it shortened and the 31 spline yoke added. I then purchased a Pro 5.0 shifter for the aftermarket T56 through a friend. I didn't get the speedo cable, or reverse lockout. I had no problems with the speedo cable, and as long as you aren't afraid of having to push a little to get it over and into reverse, I don't personally see the need for the reverse lockout. At first it seemed tough getting it into reverse, but I got used to it, and the spring loosened up a little.

I did the install myself. The crossmember relocation is a breeze. It's a bit time consuming, but it's easy. The only problems I ran into with the install of the actual tranny were -

1. It's fookin HEAVY. With the T5, I could stuff it in without any problems using just my hands lifting it up. With the T56 I had to use a floor jack to lift it and position it.

2. It's HUGE. The transmission is almost BIGGER than the transmission tunnel. You have to move it up a little, then forward a little, then up a little bit more, and then forward a little more, etc, etc, in order to get the input shaft positioned and the bellhousing to clear the tunnel.

3. With it being so huge, getting some of the upper bolts in is a pain. You only have roughly 1-1 1/2" between the transmission and the tunnel. Practically the ONLY way to get to them is with a swivel socket and a HUGE extension.

4. Lining the shifter up in the shifter boot is kind of difficult as the shifter itself is in somewhat of a different location than the T5. The shifter itself (not the handle) comes up throught the floor a little further BACK, and to the RIGHT than the T5. Getting that rubber boot around it and lined up can be difficult.

These are all of the problems I can think of at this time. It really wasn't all that bad, just time consuming. Having the added gear (a SLIGHT bit taller than 5th in a T5) is nice. Also, the gear ratios are CLOSE together. With the T5, the RPM's would drop roughly 2,000 or so when I'd shift. With this transmission they only drop 1500 when I shift. This would be the ULTIMATE tranny to put behind something that rev's to the moon (i.e. DOHC Cobra). The only downside to it (to an extent) is the tall first gear. It's much more useable, especially on street tires, than the one in the T5. The problem with it is on a set of slicks, the car doesn't leave as hard as it would with the 3.35 first gear of the T5. Other than that, it's an AWESOME transmission.

Also, I'm running the same clutch I was with the T5. I'm using the Motorsport King Cobra clutch.
 

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T5eater, et al.:

Based on the different gearing, would it make sense to change the rear end gears at the same time? If so, which gears?
 

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I've got 3.73 rear gears in mine. If you've got a motor that likes to spin up high (as mine is), 3.73's are practically perfect. Gears are real close together, almost to the point of being TOO close together. If my car made a little bit more power down low, I'd probably go with a 3.55 gear so that they weren't QUITE so close together. The only problem with going to a 3.55 would be how tall it would make first gear.

A buddy of mine and I got to talking. Here's how we thought the ratios of this T-56 (in my car with 3.73 rear gear) felt -

1st - Much like a car with a T5 and 3.27 rear gears

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th - Much like a car with a T5 and a 4.10 rear gear

6th - Much like a car with a T5 and a 3.55 rear gear (not quite as tall as I'd like it to be, but better than the T5 and the 3.73).
 

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prez1967 said:
how much did the kit cost you total? did you have a shop install it? how much would labor on that run? I hope you dont mind me asking, thanks man!
Parts, including shipping, was $2,900 which included a Steeda shifter, and complete driveshaft assembly among other items. Labor should run around $500. There is a good bit of welding required to relocate the cross member on fox Mustangs.
 

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I also bought my T-56 from D&D but I bought the Viper unit because I plan on 400+" stroker, so I wanted the 550 torque capacity.
I love the gearing of the Viper trans, it's night and day better than the T-5.
I like the .50 6th so I can cruise at 80MPH at low RPM. The gear ratio's are awesome in my opinion. 1st does not burn the tires off and allows you to go much longer without having to shift to second like a T-5. The other big plus is you can shift into 5th over 100MPH and it will pull, which you can't do with a T-5 if you want it to live. For roadracing this is a must have.

I paid $3800 for the kit that included the trans,speedo cable, crossmember,driveshaft,and PRO 5.0 shifter and that price also includes the $400 DynoTech driveshaft. If you have a Torque Arm I would buy the 3" Griggs driveshaft for more clearance. The DynoTech piece is top notch but it is 3 & 1/2".

There are 4 things I will mention about the install. The first is the reverse lockout switch.
I wired up a momentary switch to the reverse lockout solenoid and wired in power from the cigarette lighter. This way you can put it in reverse when the key is not in the ignition. The button is in the console and makes selecting reverse a breeze. Just press the button with my left hand and select reverse with my right hand. I personally don't see how you could select reverse with out it.
Also I used a GM sensor plug to go the solenoid. It was just cleaner than using spad terminals IMO.

Second you need to check and see if they installed the washer under the clutch pivot ball. If not install one or the clutch won't disengage.

The third is you need to grind out the flex plate where the hole for the clutch cable goes. This is easier done off the car.

The fourth is I tried to bolt up the bell housing first and then the tranny but could not because of how tight the dowels are. So I ended up putting it in as one unit. You will need some long extensions to get at the top bolts on the bell housing this way.

D&D phone # is
(248) 926-6220

Good Luck,
Jim
 

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I just finished installing a T-56 in my 92. I got the tranny from Fortes parts for $100 less than D&D. I comes with the bellhousing. It has a 10 spline input just like the T-5 so you can use the same clutches. I used my exisiting crossmember. I just drilled a center slot for the mount. Get a trans mount for an F-body with the 6 speed. The speedo cable will reach with some rerouting. I had a welding shop weld up a couple of boxes for the crossmember mount. It only cost $25. I just bolted them to the floor. I took my existing drive shaft to a shop that works on them and the shortened it and installed the correct yolk. The yolk is for a C-6. That only cost $130 for the yolk' shortening and balancing. I did have to get an new h-pipe made up as the x-pipe I had would not clear. I had no problems with the shifter alignment.

Tranny $1895
Drive shaft work $130
New clutch $200
Steeda shifter (the stock one sucks) $200
exhaust work $100
Crossmember mounts $25

Hook up the reverse lock out solenoid to your brake lights. The instructions with the Steeda shifter says that damage may occur if you do not hook it up. It's not hard to wire it up to the brake light anyways. Plan on extending the speedo sensor and reverse light wire. Ditch the nuetral switch wire the T-56 doesn't have one.

The T-56 is like having a gear inbetween 4th and 5th in the t-5. It is an awsome tranny. Shifts easy and doesn't make any noises.

I don't believe the install package from D&D is really required. It's not rocket science, but a little more complicated than a straigh tranny swap.

You'll need to tilt the motor back is far as it will go to get the tranny in. It's one big mutha.

Go for it. :joy:
 

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T5eater said:
1st - Much like a car with a T5 and 3.27 rear gears

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th - Much like a car with a T5 and a 4.10 rear gear

6th - Much like a car with a T5 and a 3.55 rear gear (not quite as tall as I'd like it to be, but better than the T5 and the 3.73). [/B]
This helps, thanks!
 

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Why does it break??

Have any one of you had any probs with 3-4th synchro? I have had mine go out three times from my D&D T-56, the first time was after 3k, the second after 1500 miles and the third after 53 miles. I am getting really frustrated with this, D&D has been great (sent me the new synchro inserts every time) but I am sick of pulling this heavy sucker out!! The trans usually gets stuck in 4th and I have to force it to come out it wll also pop out of third when you dont slam it in, 1,2,5,&6th all still work fine. Any ideas???????????

PS it broke the last time while I was breaking in my new motor, so I wasnt abusing it too much!:confused:
 

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I'm having the same problem. Less than a year old. I thought I was getting something that would last. Guess not.

I have an OT event next week. I hope it makes it through the event.
 

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anybody get a aftermarket x or h pipe to work WITH CATS

ps I have a regular t-56 if anybody is palnning on buying one get it with the viper ratios otherwise get a TKO or some such five speed. its not worth it really without the .50 6th.

(I got my tranny, gt-40 motor,clutch & rear for 1500 used thats why i went with the 6)
 
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