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Discussion Starter #1
After all the abuse I put the car through it's finally showing it's age. I've put it through nearly non-stop beating since I started racing it at the track in December 99. It has over 600 passes on it and almost 95K miles.

Last night I backed out of the driveway and it got locked up in reverse. It wasn't budging I tried popping the clutch a few times but nothing, tried shutting off the car and moving it...nothing. Eventually I had to hammer on it with my hand till it came free but that was enough to hurt it. Soon as I drove it the shifting was as smooth and made more noise than usual. It's a little better shifting this morning and goes into reverse just fine but noise in neutral is noticable and even at speed you can hear it. With 7 weeks till race season I know this trans isn't going to hold up long.

Of course it couldn't happen at a worse time because I was just about to buy a used truck to tow the car to races. Now however it looks like I'll have to use some of that money for a TKO which means a cheaper truck or drive the car to races...neither a good option in my book.

I have a brand pressure plate, litterally it was put in Monday morning, so I can use that. For the rest I need the 4.6 Lakewood Bellhousing, the TKO trans itself, new clutch disk, shifter...anything else? I can't remember if the 4.6 driveshaft will work or if I need a different one? Also I believe the crossmember has to be modified to work, what about speedo? I may just leave it disconnected I know how fast the car goes in 5th by RPM anyways and don't plan on driving it on the street too much more. Anything else I'm missing?

Bill
 

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Hey Bill,congrats on the new best times.
I had the same thing happen to me this summer.I was backing out of the parking lot after my son's baseball game & she wouldn't come out of reverse,after trying for awhile I decided to drive home in reverse,it was only a mile or so.I took out the shifter but was not able to move the shaft.Luckly my car was still under warranty so I had it towed to the dealer.They repaired it & I was told that is was the fork & that there was a service bullitin issued by ford about that exact problem,so maybe check it out & U could get lucky.
 

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You can use your exsisting drive shaft and yoke..DO NOT use the tremec supplied yoke. You will need a clutch disk, if you like Mcleod products, which in my opinion work the best with the TKO tranny, theres the Kevelar disk (p/n 260870R) and the sintered iron disk (p/n 5201-07R). You will need a longer throw out bearing if you decide to go with the Lakewood BH, due to the Lakewood positions the clutch release fork further from the pressure plate fingers, Mcleod p/n 16100.

I notice you have longtubes, so you will have to grind the bell housing and block plate ears and the starter bell about 1/8 of an inch so they will clear the LT primaries.The 96-98 GT's you have to grind both the driver side block plate bolts off, because they hit the back of the driver-side head. dont know if this holds true on the 2000 GT's. Insted of re-locating the tranny crossmember purchase the TKO tranny crossmember adapter from Paul high performance, this will save you alot of work, plus it will put your pinion at the correct angle. I will post a pic on where your supposed to grind the Lakewood BH ears..when doing this you must grind the block plate ears in the same manner..Also ignore the grind passenger side block plate bolt down 1/8, thats for Cobras only..

torque specs.

Bell housing to motor fastners 60 ftlb. and use loc tite,

bell housing to tranny bolts(4 of them) 35 ftlb and use loc tite..

BH index hole to crank hub run-out .004
pinoion angle 3-5 degree's

If I think of more I will post it..PBWY

 

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second-coming said:
You can use your exsisting drive shaft and yoke..DO NOT use the tremec supplied yoke. You will need a clutch disk, if you like Mcleod products, which in my opinion work the best with the TKO tranny, theres the Kevelar disk (p/n 260870R) and the sintered iron disk (p/n 5201-07R). You will need a longer throw out bearing if you decide to go with the Lakewood BH, due to the Lakewood positions the clutch release fork further from the pressure plate fingers, Mcleod p/n 16100.

I notice you have longtubes, so you will have to grind the bell housing and block plate ears and the starter bell about 1/8 of an inch so they will clear the LT primaries.The 96-98 GT's you have to grind both the driver side block plate bolts off, because they hit the back of the driver-side head. dont know if this holds true on the 2000 GT's. Insted of re-locating the tranny crossmember purchase the TKO tranny crossmember adapter from Paul high performance, this will save you alot of work, plus it will put your pinion at the correct angle. I will post a pic on where your supposed to grind the Lakewood BH ears..when doing this you must grind the block plate ears in the same manner..Also ignore the grind passenger side block plate bolt down 1/8, thats for Cobras only..

torque specs.

Bell housing to motor fastners 60 ftlb. and use loc tite,

bell housing to tranny bolts(4 of them) 35 ftlb and use loc tite..

BH index hole to crank hub run-out .004
pinoion angle 3-5 degree's

If I think of more I will post it..PBWY
You can't use the stock DS/yolk on that car with a TKO? He's gonna need a 5.0 yoke or buy a new DS with a yoke for the TKO.

I am running a Mcloed Kevlar and it has worked great.

The Lakewood Bellhouse you need is 25230.

The stock crossmember can be modified. There are slide plates. What you do is redrill 1 new hole on each side towards the BH and flip the slide plate around and line up the bolt holes and your done. The trans mounts forward more, so ifyour using a Pro 5.0 shifter handle its gonna suck. I am using a Pro 5.0 shifter with a Steeda Tria-ax handle.

I looked at the Mac LT's on a motor out of the car, he may be ok on clearences with the Lakewood. The BBK's for sure cause issues and its a lot of grounding. Duane V has some good pics and info on what needs to be ground on the Lakewood if needed.

Bill PM me if you have any questions.
 

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You can't use the stock DS/yolk on that car with a TKO? He's gonna need a 5.0 yoke or buy a new DS with a yoke for the TKO.
Sorry but your dead wrong..You only have to change you DS when going with the standard Tremec 3550..TKO's have 31 spline out-put shaft's just like the T-45's...PBWY
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great thanks for the info everyone. I knew the stock crossmember could be modified easily but that makes perfect sense, especially since I was just looking at that little plate last weekend. Buddy of mine does lots of fabrication work so I'll be able to shim the trans to obtain the proper pinion angle.

I have an aluminum driveshaft already where can I get a yoke from to make it fit or do I have to buy a new one? Assuming I would need a 5.0 specific driveshaft instead?

Not sure yet on the clutch disk, I've always had luck with the centerforce dual friction disk but Mcleod has been working great for a lot of people I know.

Grinding on the BH I expected for clearance, no big deal there if it's needed. I do however have no clue about what run out even is little lone how to determine it. I know it has to do with the trans lining up properly with the pilot bearing. If it's something I can't do I have someone that can either help me through it or do it for me.

Bill
 

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If its the FMS Aluminum DS for a 96-2002 GT, use the yoke it came with, the Tremec supplied yoke is too short and will either ruin the splines on the tranny out-put shaft, or ruin the the yoke splines..the stock yoke is two inches longer than the Tremec supplied yoke. If you do not decide to opt for the PHP TKO tranny cross-member adapter, then you will need to make a aluminum 1.12 x 1.12 sq. x 6 inch length spacer that will sit above your tranny mount, you will have to drill two holes and buy longer screws..PBWY
 

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Bill,

There is someone in the classifieds who is selling a 4.6 lakewood Bell Housing for tko.
 

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Bill,

I have a parts list you can use if you would like, it was everything we used to make the swap on my car. We modified my k-member by drilling it new holes, nothing major.

The swap is pretty straight forward, you shouldn't have any problems. You will though have to probably unbolt your headers so you can move them out of the way a little bit on the passenger side.

Let me know if you want that list, just shoot me a pm.

Good luck man, you will love the TKO :D
 

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Hey Rancid...and others...

Rancid, could you post the parts list on this thread?

And... could you or anyone else describe how to check the tolerances (runout?) in layman's terms? Has anyone just bolted the lakewood BH setup right up and not had excessive runout/or tolerances not within spec?

Just curious about the whole setup.... I figure my T45 won't last past this season and plan on a TKO swap.

Thanks!

SOHC
99 Vortech GT
89 LX 5.0 Vert
02 F150 SuperCrew
 

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So the MAC and BBK headers won't clear the Tremec TKO or 3550 and Lakewood BH? From what I've always read, they would clear without any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes they will clear you just have to grind down the bellhousing in a few places to keep it from rubbing.

Bill
 

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Whats up Bill,

The easiest way to check the run-out is to remove the pressure plate, clutch disk and the the clutch release fork.

Install the block plate and bell housing to the engine block and torque fastners to 60 ftlb.

Install dial indicator with a magnetic base on the flywheel, or you can make a bracket. Adjust dial indicator plunger so that it contacts the register bore on the bell housing, then zero your dial indicator. Rotate the flywheel, the best way is have a buddy rotate the engine from the balancer bolt in front of the engine.
Note the indicator readings. Misalignment is one-half of the indicator reading, (maximium allowable run-out is .005).

In most case's if the block plate and bell housing are not hitting against anything the run-out falls into place. When I did a TKO swap on my 98 Cobra I had to pull the bell-housing off 3 times and do some grinding so that nothing would hit (longtubes). Finally after noticing the block plate bolt nearest the starter was hitting the back of the head and grinding down this bolt down a 1/8 of an inch, the run-out fell into place (only have to do this to Cobras). With 96-99 GT's you have to completly grind off the two driver side block plate bolts because they hit driver side head, not sure if this holds true with a 2000-2002 GT, but I imagine it would. Also make sure you remove the paint from the two dowel pin holes and the indexing bore on the lakewood BH and de-burr where you have done some grinding before checking the run-out.

Although I have read on the Corral that people have installed the Lakewood BH without checking the run-out, I highly recomend that you do..Heres a list of reasons why...

Pilot bearing wear
Main shaft bearing wear
Difficulty in shifting tranny (overly notchy)
And in extreme cases, breakage of transmission gears and case.
 

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We unbolted my passenger header mainly because we were taking my auto tranny out and outting the TKO in. So to make life easy we unbolted it. I do know though, it helped majorly when putting the TKO back in as I can see where it might of been a PITA with it there.

Clearance wasn't an issue with the headers, we had to drill new holes because I believe something wasn't lining up correctly, I think it was some type of bracket.

I'll dig up that parts list for whomever requested it.
 

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Great tech here Bill.

I've had some grinding between 3-4 shifts and know that sooner or later, I'll be facing a transmission swap. I was also thinking about going with the TKO.

BTW, have you shopped around for the best price? D&D quoted me $1,349 earlier last week (I thought that was a pretty good number).

Thanks,
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bri'sMystic said:
BTW, have you shopped around for the best price? D&D quoted me $1,349 earlier last week (I thought that was a pretty good number).
Got mine from Jeremy at UPR for $1350.


yeah what would be the total price tag on everything needed for this swap?
TKO $1350
Bellhousing $300-350
Shifter (optional) $150-170
Clutch $100-200
Fluid $20-30
Spacer for rear of trans $0-80

So far so good on the install. I've dropped the T-45 and removed everything, I'm now in the process of trimming the block plate. The two bolts on the driver side do have to be ground off on the 2000s also. Plus I'm going to need to grind the block plate around the starter as well as the bellhousing just a little for clearance. Otherwise everything is going smooth. Still waiting on a clutch so no rush. Should have it on the road by next weekend at the lastest.

Bill
 

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Mustang92 said:
Got mine from Jeremy at UPR for $1350.




TKO $1350
Bellhousing $300-350
Shifter (optional) $150-170
Clutch $100-200
Fluid $20-30
Spacer for rear of trans $0-80

So far so good on the install. I've dropped the T-45 and removed everything, I'm now in the process of trimming the block plate. The two bolts on the driver side do have to be ground off on the 2000s also. Plus I'm going to need to grind the block plate around the starter as well as the bellhousing just a little for clearance. Otherwise everything is going smooth. Still waiting on a clutch so no rush. Should have it on the road by next weekend at the lastest.

Bill
Can you get pics of it when you get the BH put on and bolted down? Interested in seeing the clearences with the Mac LT's and the BH.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
vrtical said:
Can you get pics of it when you get the BH put on and bolted down? Interested in seeing the clearences with the Mac LT's and the BH.
I took a few pics tonight before I stopped of the where I modified the backing plate. The bellhousing only had to be ground down slightly around the flange by the starter. Clearance is only about 1/16-1/8". Good thing is that with the headers bolted in place the bellhousing can be manuevered into place. So from this point forward no more removing of the header to swap clutches/pressure plates, etc... The trans will slide right in also with no problems at all.

I would have gotten more done tonight but it looks like my pilot bearing is bad. One of the needle bearings is pushed towards the motor and doesn't seem to move so I'm just going to get a new one while it's all apart.

Bill
 

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Mustang92 said:
Good thing is that with the headers bolted in place the bellhousing can be manuevered into place. So from this point forward no more removing of the header to swap clutches/pressure plates, etc... The trans will slide right in also with
that's good to hear! :joy:
 
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