I would like to keep my car. Its paid off, rear end can handle 600hp, plus its a cobra so you get decent handling, big brakes, and plush interiour. Its a good foundation and the modular stuff is so expensive.I think as a package deal its worth 8K. Anything less and I might as well stay where I am at.
$8,000 for a stock motor with an aftercooled vortec and injectors? You can almost find new 03 cobra motors for that, and low mileage ones for less... IMO you would be real lucky to get $6k for it, real lucky...
8k for alot of parts and extras. I think there is alot of hype over the 03 cobra motor. So it comes with good rods and pistons($1200), but a ($300) cast block. You cant beat a 96-01 block.
Everthing is in street show condition, plus you can drive the car before I pull the engine. No problems with engine, raced once a year.
So if I go pushrod I think I can sell the follwing parts since they wont be needed. 70k mi. 4.6dohc,pro-m 80, dis 4, msd wires,v1-s trim and aftercooler, billet flywheel, centerforce clutch, aluminum d/s,(35k mi.) on Tremec t-45,Bassani x with cats,magnaflow catback,brand new in box bbk lt's and offroad x, mil elim, o2ext.
Also get k-member, computer and anything else I forgot.
dude not to burst your bubble but IMO you would have to find a moron to pay 8K for a motor with 70k on it, and a used V1.... To the right person it may be worth it, but if I was you I woul seriously just look into doing a rebuild with some quality stuff, headwork, and maybe a procharger D1sc and theres all the power you can handle and drive from day to day IMO...
How come everybody thinks my motor needs a rebuild. That motor runs strong! 70k mi. in Arizona is alot different than the east coast. I bought this car with 7 mi. on the odometer off the showroom floor.
Well if my parts aren't worth ****, I"ll just drive another 30K with 400+rwhp!
Whens the last time you did a leak down? These motor can have broken ringlands and still run like a champ. A lot of people had issues with the stock vortech chips and detonation.
Even if everything is still mint in the motor it has still had a power adder on it for decent amount of miles which devalues it a bit.
My suggestion would be to first do a leakdown/compression test. If everything is good slap the following on and you will see a nice increase to around 500 to the wheels.
Upgraded intank pump
Upgrade SC-trim to Strim and keep stock pulley ($250)
Nobody said you need a rebuild, everyone said why not just rebuild your engine with forged components instead of trying to swap a 351W in. You'll make more power with your blower and a forged bottom-end than you will with the 351W. Cost will be cheaper with a rebuild as well.
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