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Discussion Starter #1
I got the energy suspension kit and it comes with the new Tie-rod end "boot" or cover, whatever you call it. It is on the outer and connects to the outside of the A-arm. Anyhow, the old boot is ripped to shreds. Do I still need to replace the whole thing? Or just take it off, clean it out put the new boot on and fill it with grease. I prefer the latter, but want a nice firm suspension. As far as the Ball Joints, they are both ripped. In the Handy dandy Chiltons Manual, it says to replace the whole A-arm. Can I just get the old one pressed out. Whew, my 2 stupid questions for the day. Are there any other things I should look out for when redoing the whole suspension? The Tokico 5-ways and front coil overs are on the way, so I am prepping for that. Got some good stuff for the rear too. Thanks for ANY input!
 

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As far as the balljoints go:
You can get the old one PRESSED out (NO BFH please). ANd get the new ones pressed in. Trust me, I have had a balljoint pop out while driving. NO fun :eek:
 

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I replaced mine last winter. They are a bear to remove - I took out the A arms and used a BFH to remove and a BFH to install. Not the preferred method, but everything worked out ok. You will need the pickle fork to pop the tie rod loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For the Tie Rod ends

How bout them tie rod ends? Can I reuse them and just replace the cover?
 

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replace your tie rod ends!

I rebuilt the suspension on my 91 GT last year, I work at a machine shop so it was easy to press in new ball joints and bushings!:) I bought new tie rod ends because mine had a lot of play in them, I think they were like $15 a side at Advanced Auto. Definitely worth it! :joy: :joy: :joy: :joy:
 

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I second that. Go with the machine shop. For the time and money it takes a machine shop to pop them out and press them in, it's far and away well worth it.

In fact, I dropped mine off in the morning, had them press out the ball joints and control arm bushings, media blast them to remove all the paint, rust, crud, and then press in all new bushings and ball joints. $50 total for the pair. I took them home later in the day, sprayed on a new coat of gloss black enamel...looked like brand new.

Messing around with the BFH and renting a press,...it wasn't worth the headache and risk of damaging the parts.
 

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I have replace ball joints on my car and my buddy's 93 GT convertible with the press tool you can rent from Autozone. An impact makes it easy work, but it can be done with a breaker bar and some muscle too. Not too bad of a job.

If the tie rod ends don't have any play in them, you should be able to clean them, regrease them, and install the new covers. If you are unsure, I would replace them to be safe.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lower control arm giving me problems

I was doing the job today, and my drivers side lower control arm had no problems coming off. However, when I went to take off the Pass side lower control arm, the bolts wouldn't budge. The nut is off, but the bolts will not come out. I cut off the front one, but the back one will not be able to be cut out. I can't use a torch. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 

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Re: Lower control arm giving me problems

jbes3 said:
I was doing the job today, and my drivers side lower control arm had no problems coming off. However, when I went to take off the Pass side lower control arm, the bolts wouldn't budge. The nut is off, but the bolts will not come out. I cut off the front one, but the back one will not be able to be cut out. I can't use a torch. Any suggestions? Thanks!
This happened on my buddy's 93. The bolts were siezed in the sleeves and would not budge.

We ended up using a die grinder and a fabricated 8" cutoff wheel to get in there. It is hard to get real good heat in there because of the rubber bushing. It tends to absorb the heat and/or burn.
 
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