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Discussion Starter #1
Right now I'm running an F303 cam, but due to driveability issues I'm considering putting the stock cam back in after I rebuild the Powerdyne. I was thinking this combo might be pretty stealthy. Anyone have any ideas on approximately how much hp I might lose by this switch? I'd like to have around 400 or more rwhp with this combo. Is it possible? Thanks for any info!
 

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Well the stock cam is pretty weak. The lift on it is only .444/.444 with a 116 lobe seperation. The valves are not even going to be open that long for the blower.

The stock cam is better for a turbo application due to the fact that it is a overlapping cam.

The F303 cam is a pretty wild cam - the B303 cam with 1.7 rockers is a lot like the F cam too.

What is rough about the F cam as a daily driver? The gas it eats up? The idle (lobe seperation)?? If it is the lobe seperation - than I would just find a cam with a 112 or higher lobe sep. The E Cam and F cam I believe are 110 lobe sep.

I have been told by many that the cam I have is great for a Supercharged/NA application. The Crane 2031 (1.7's) or the Crane 2030 (1.6's)

-Rob-
:evil:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The main problem I have with the F303 is that my car always smells like gas. Although I don't have cats (MAC Prochamber), this wasn't a problem with the stock cam. I figure a custom chip would clean up the rich idle considerably, but I don't want to get a chip until I decide on a combo I'll be keeping for awhile. Also, the low-speed driveability has never been very good with the F303 (lots of low rpm bucking, and not much low-end torque). I kinda want to keep something with a 114-116 lobe separation for the blower. Since I had the stocker already, I thought it might be fun to see if I could sneak up on somebody :evil: . Is there some tuning secret I'm missing for good driveability with the F303?
 

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Your injectors may be too large. If you don't have the blower on yet, why do you have 30's?? 24's are sufficient in my opinion.

The F cam is a "Blower Happy" cam. It works great with Superchargers. As far as N/A I am not sure. Everyone I know that runs the F cam has a Supercharger.

As far as the lobe seperation is concerned - there is not much stuff out there that will not have a 110 or 112 seperation.

The only one I know of that has a higher lobe seperation is the STEEDA #19 cam and I believe that is a 115 lobe seperation. I don't know the specs on it though.

-Rob-
:evil:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your injectors may be too large. If you don't have the blower on yet, why do you have 30's?? 24's are sufficient in my opinion.
I had the 30's on there w/ the blower. The supercharger recently broke, and I just left the 30's in there until I get it back on.

I'm thinking the duration (288) of the F303 is confusing the stock computer, and causing it to run rich. As far as the injectors are concerned, I'm sure they don't help matters. I've tried turning down the fuel pressure, but anything less than 40-42 psi at idle (vacuum on), and it pops back through the intake tract (kinda like small backfires through the intake).

I'm just curious how much hp the F303 is worth over the stocker, on a bolt-on application with heads, intake, etc. and 10 lbs. of boost? Real Street guys make great power with the stock cam. Can these combos carry over to street cars? Thanks for any help, just trying to build the perfect street car.
 

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I have heard that the stock cam with 1.7's is a good fit.
I was thinking of doing the same thing.
What MAF are you running?
Anyone run a C&L 76 MAF with there supercharger? I am getting ready to buy a powerdyne and I am thinking of changing my MAF.
If I go with larger injectors (lets say 42lbers) will I need a FMU? Is 42 too large?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
wldtang:

I'm currently running a Pro-m 75mm bullet. I had a C&L 73mm on it, but a tuner recommended the Pro-m to cure my rich idle problem, but I can't tell a difference. The 76 will probably be fine on your car. I like the easy, cheap way you can recalibrate a C&L for different injectors. ***edit*** just saw you are running the 77mm Pro-m, with a recal for the 42's, it should do great. You could even get the Optimizer, instead of having to send it in for recalibration.

I don't think 42's will be too large, I wish I had 'em. You can probably get by with no fmu, but I'd want to get it on a dyno with a wideband a/f before I hammered on it too hard, just to be on the safe side. How much boost are you planning on running? Do you dislike your Stage 1 cam?
 

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I am thinking of getting a Pro M 75 with 42's. I hate sending the 77 back. They charge way too much to o a recal.
I like the TFS stage 1 but I would prefer to have something with a stock like idle.
The Powerdyne I hope will have about 8-9lbs of boost. What model Powerdyne do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What model Powerdyne do you have?
It's an old Ford Motorsport Blower, originally it was a BD-10, but it has been upgraded to BD-11 specs.

I am thinking of getting a Pro M 75 with 42's. I hate sending the 77 back. They charge way too much to o a recal.
You can get the Optimizer for around $159 to hook up to your 77mm, and it gives you the flexibility to adjust for 4 different injector sizes (I think). I'll probably get one of these when I upgrade injectors, if I don't get a bigger meter. Some say it allows some extra fine-tuning. Guess I need to check into it more.
 

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400 RWHP will be awfully hard to achieve with the stock cam and a safe 9psi of boost. I got my old cobra motor to generate 360 RWHP with the supplied Cobra (95) cam and 1.7 rockers on gt40 iron heads. The limiting factor in my opinion is the supercharger itself. 400 - 430 appears to be the limit with all the go fast goodies.
 

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DON'T USE C&L!!!

boosted89 said:
wldtang:

I'm currently running a Pro-m 75mm bullet. I had a C&L 73mm on it, but a tuner recommended the Pro-m to cure my rich idle problem, but I can't tell a difference.
The reason the tuner recommended a Pro-M over the C&L is because the air/fuel ratio that results from using a C&L MAF can be +/- 1.5 AFR from the desired target. Here's why.

The electronics pack that comes on the stock ford meter was calibrated for the housing it came on. Ford "trims" these meters as much as +/-15% to calibrate them for the housing...and every housing is slightly different. C&L has you take this calibrated electronics pack and stick it on their housing. The housing was developed using some sample electronics pack that may or may not be similar to yours. They have come up with a housing that
works "pretty well" and is the "average" of "most" of the calibrations. The result...is that your air fuel ratio might be perfect...or it might be 15% rich or lean :eek: depending on the luck of the draw.

That is why 99% of the people use calibrated meters in the cars they build...like Pro-M, or a Ford Motorsport meter if possible.

That is why I am ditching my C&L and getting a Pro-M.

-Rob-
:evil:
 

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WOW good info. Thanks
 

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My powerdyne car wouldnt run with a Pro M and runs like a top with a 76 C&L.
 

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I've never used a Pro-m but my Powerdyne car runs flawless with my C&L 76mm maf. Even ran awesome with my C&L 73mm.
 

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i was hoping to see some C&L's being ran. Thanks.
 

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95GTS
How do you liek the Steeda #19 cam? How does it idle?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My powerdyne car wouldnt run with a Pro M and runs like a top with a 76 C&L.
That's odd.......must've been a bad one.
 

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wldtang said:
95GTS
How do you liek the Steeda #19 cam? How does it idle?
The only cam I have to compare it to is stock and of course IMO, it's superior. I ran the car for a year n/a with the cam and it definitely pulled harder through the rpm range. Of course it also works well with my supercharger. As far as the idle goes, it's very lopey, nothing like the stock cam.
 

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Another cam you could consider is the crane 2031. I have it and the driveabilty/power is excellent,imo.I also have a C&L meter and have had no problem with it.
 

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I just wanted to add that I run an 80mm C&L with 30lb injectors, 9 psi BD11A and a 6 to 1 FMU and my car runs great.
One thing though, I had to put the C&L way down in the fenderwell as far away from the blower as possible and use the biggest K&N that I could find and all is wonderfull.
 
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