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Do you have a laptop with tunerstudios on it? Controlling the fan with the pimpxs is the best choice. Way more options and easier to set up than most other controllers.

With contour fans and a good radiator you should be able to sustain around 180-190* while driving around, assuming temps stay below 100* ambient.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Do you have a laptop with tunerstudios on it? Controlling the fan with the pimpxs is the best choice. Way more options and easier to set up than most other controllers.
Yes I do. I’ve just not messed with that side of it yet.


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So you have normal operating temperature, but aren’t comfortable with it, so you believe something is wrong?

Regardless of what you want, reality is often different.

Most tunes have the low speed fans come on in the 208°-216° range, and high speed fans on in the 224°-228° range. And the low speed typically turns off about 10° below the ON set point.

You shouldn’t even consider potential overheating issues unless you reach 230°+ or the high speed runs constantly without dropping the temperature.

A thermostat’s job is to maintain the MINIMUM operating temperature. Factory minimum operating temperature is 195° before it closes to increase the coolant temperature.
 

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I agree a 160 degree thermostat is too cold and it will be difficult to achieve the 160 degrees setting without being wide open on a cold day, however I disagree with high flow reducing cooling performance. Higher flow through the radiator will only increase BTU removal. True the differential temperature between radiator inlet and outlet will drop due to decreased residence time, but the log-mean average temperature difference between the air and coolant will increase, improving heat rejection across the entire surface of the radiator and ultimately lowering engine temperatures. Stock coolant flow rates with stock radiators and fans are already approaching diminishing returns since the temperature difference is already down to about 20 deg-F so I wouldn't expect high flow water pumps to really help much unless everything else was upgraded (bigger engine, radiator, and fan). If cooling performance drops with higher coolant flow rates then something funky is going on, maybe pump cavitation.


EDIT: I just saw SWJ01's post came in a few seconds before I posted. I agree, but in a very long-winded fashion.
High flow water pumps do without a doubt work. I've datalogged it here in Phoenix. Think about it...the longer the coolant sits in the jackets; the more likely there will be hot spots. You want to get cooler coolant running through the engine in an efficient manner. Ford actually installed high flow water pumps in some of the old FE engines.They had a cast impeller with a backing plate on the impeller. New high flow pumps are fashioned in much the same way.
I always run a high flow pump along with a high flow t-stat for best cooling. High performance engines demand high performance cooling.

Does this impeller design look familiar?
Ford 429 water pump
 
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I guarantee you do not have your bypass hose hooked up. If you don’t you better get it in there. You have to run a bypass hose with a thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Am I safe to assume this might hinder some of the air flow that should be pushing up in front of the radiator?





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Am I safe to assume this might hinder some of the air flow that should be pushing up in front of the radiator?
No. It’s fine. And you don’t have an airflow problem, given your temperatures, they are exactly where they should be.
IF you had an airflow problem, the car would overheat.
 
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Do what I did. If you have TunerPro RT you can watch this stuff real time. Plug it in and have it running when you do a cold start. Let it sit there -A/C off- and idle and note benchmark temperatures and what the factory gauge indicates. As in note where 160, 180 and 200 degrees as measured by your ECT are on the factory gauge.
With it sitting and no airflow, you will likely see a one time (during cold startup) spike that looks a bit alarming, right before the controller sensor kicks in the fans. After that, it settles down as the fans do their job.
Now you have a good idea of what the temps truly are without driving around with a laptop sliding all over the passenger seat, or watching datalogs of long drives.
 

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This is a screenshot I just took from a stock A9L calibration in Binary Editor. WOT Advance looks like it doesn't start pulling anything til above 200 ECT, and even then it's just a linear slope up to 2 degrees pulled at 236.
1062031


This second screenshot shows the timing reduction based on ECT when not at WOT. Here, you can see at the highest load areas, it will pull a hair of timing as we go up from 196 to 210 degrees. But keep in mind, if you are achieving 75 load, you will have already moved into the WOT timing function anyways, so this wouldn't likely kick in hardly at all until getting over 210. Then some of the lower loads are modified.
1062032


Now, there is another thing based on ACT, not ECT. This may be what someone was referring to in an earlier post. Spark advance vs ACT is pulling 2 degrees at 190 ACT. ACT usually runs a bit cooler than ECT though.
1062033
 
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