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Discussion Starter #1
I've pulled the trans, clutch, and flywheel for preparation for my TKO. However I noticed that the rear main seal is leaking significantly.
What are the steps needed to change this?
Also where to get one besides ford?


thanks

Dan
95 rio red cobra #2021
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dave95GT said:
Pry the old one out, tap a new one in. I got mine from Ford, but you can get them at any parts store.
The rear main is directly under the flywheel, then the plate correct?

Dan
 

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Yes, remove the fly wheel and plate. Then you will be able to see it. Be careful when removeing it as not to nick or scratch the crank. Use the old seal to tap in the new one, evenly and slowly. Easy after the tranny is out. Good time to get the flywheel reserfaced while it is out. And don't forget to put sealer on the crank bolts.
 

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Make sure it's made of Viton, not some crapo stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the suggestions guys,
one more thing, Im assuming I'll need to drain the oil before hand, or else it will all pour out?
thanks


Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
when you guys removed the rear main seal, what did you remove it with? Ive tried several things but cant seem to get it pulled.
Should I invest in a seal puller?


Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #9
paluka21 said:
when you guys removed the rear main seal, what did you remove it with? Ive tried several things but cant seem to get it pulled.
Should I invest in a seal puller?
Also, what about a repair sleave? I bought a felpro seal, should I purchase this repair sleave, and if so does it go in before the seal itself?
Dan
 

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paluka21 said:
when you guys removed the rear main seal, what did you remove it with? Ive tried several things but cant seem to get it pulled.
Should I invest in a seal puller?


Dan
I pissed around for several hours before using a glass type flat blade screw driver.

Insert between the seal and the block. Slowly all around.
Pry and pray.

The tranny extension seal is easier to remove... while you have it laying on the floor...

The tip of using the old seal to tap the new one in is an excellent tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
repair sleave install???

got the rear seal out, now I cant seem to get the repair sleave on, its almost too small to fit the crank since its made of some sort of metal..
how did you guys get it on w/ o slicing up your fingers?

Dan
 

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repair sleeve? what the heck is that? did you damage your crank getting the old seal out? I got mine out without even having to make any kind of contact with the crank at all.... you should need any kind of sleeve if your crank wasn't scratched, just have to put the new seal in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ive just heard that its necessary to install a repair sleave as well.
I gave up on it because it just wouldnt fit, i ended up bending the sleave to hell and back.
just used the seal and silicone around the edges of the seal for extra insurance.

Dan
 

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You only need the repair sleeve if there is a *grove* in your crank from the old seal. I haven't heard of any 5.0's having a grove on the rear of the crank. Maybe if you never changed your oil and ran sludge, and had 150K miles on the block (a cool trick running sludge for oil), THEN you may have a grove on the rear of the crank.

Getting groves on the FRONT of the crank is more "common" because of the front timing cover seal. Some seals are very tight, rub a lot, made of very hard rubber, and so on. Still, you need a HIGH mileage engine for that to happen. I have over 250K on my t-bird engine (1 rebuild) and I very much doubt that I'll see any groves when/if I get around to a 2nd rebuild (in another 50K-100K miles?).

Also, groves are more common with high revving, hot 4 cyls.

Last thing, to install the sleeve, you would have had to heat it (in an oven, etc) and then install it Quickly before it cooled down too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
stangPlus2Birds said:
You only need the repair sleeve if there is a *grove* in your crank from the old seal. I haven't heard of any 5.0's having a grove on the rear of the crank. Maybe if you never changed your oil and ran sludge, and had 150K miles on the block (a cool trick running sludge for oil), THEN you may have a grove on the rear of the crank.

Getting groves on the FRONT of the crank is more "common" because of the front timing cover seal. Some seals are very tight, rub a lot, made of very hard rubber, and so on. Still, you need a HIGH mileage engine for that to happen. I have over 250K on my t-bird engine (1 rebuild) and I very much doubt that I'll see any groves when/if I get around to a 2nd rebuild (in another 50K-100K miles?).

Also, groves are more common with high revving, hot 4 cyls.

Last thing, to install the sleeve, you would have had to heat it (in an oven, etc) and then install it Quickly before it cooled down too much.
thank you for the info, it was indeed useful :D I never really undestood the concept of the repair sleeve, as I guess I dont need it anyway.
thanks

Dan
 

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The seal with the sleeve needs a special tool to install corectly. But its the best kind to get. Ive installed a bunch of them on all kinds of fords. I do know one thing. if your seal came with the sleeve then you should use it or risk have an oil leak. Dont forget to use thread sealer on those flywheel bolts.
 
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