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Just wondering if these are strongly recommended
I have the Eibach Pro-Kit, but I plan on struts and shocks in the future.
What brand is good to get and can I get them quickly?

Appreciate the help.
 

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Almost any company sells thems, Energy Suspension, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda. They're about $20, But MM doesn't recommend using the offset ones, due to steering geometry!! But they do recommend putting regular offset urethane bushings in, it helps in response and feedback of the steering.
 

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123A46GT said:
Almost any company sells thems, Energy Suspension, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda. They're about $20, But MM doesn't recommend using the offset ones, due to steering geometry!! But they do recommend putting regular offset urethane bushings in, it helps in response and feedback of the steering.
Off set bushings make sense to me... (and they're not expensive)

MM doesn't recommend them (address the issue) or MM recommends not using them? I'm not sure what you are saying...

I don't have them but am considering them to put my steering geometry back to close what was stock...

My steering is real touchy now... I've gone from understeer to oversteer...
 

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He meant to say they don't recommend offset ones, but they recommend replacing the rubber ones with urethane ones. I used offset bushings, like you're asking, and I think I still have bumpsteer problems (car wanders over paint stripes and worn roads much more than stock, despite a perfect alignment), though maybe it would be worse without them. If I had a little more money, I'd use UPR's balljoint end (they're cheaper than Steeda's and MM's). What Maximum Motorsports says may not be agreed with by all, but I believe what they say and may try removing my offset bushings soon. Edit: If it were me, I'd call Maximum Motorsports and ask them about this, and then call Eibach.

"Offset steering rack bushings move the rack far too much on stock K-Members, and make an acceptible situation far worse than if you had done nothing at all. See our test results in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford, the September issue of 5.0 Mustang, or call our tech line for more details"

http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/x2.htm
http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/SteedaBumpSteerKit.htm
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/rbd.asp
 

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DB96GT said:

"Offset steering rack bushings move the rack far too much on stock K-Members, and make an acceptible situation far worse than if you had done nothing at all. See our test results in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford, the September issue of 5.0 Mustang, or call our tech line for more details"

http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/x2.htm
http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/SteedaBumpSteerKit.htm
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/rbd.asp
This reads to me with no regard to having lowered your car... Certainly if you haven't lowered your car you would get these results...

But if you have lowered your car it would be sensible to attempt to return the steering rack back to it's original geometry...

From Steeda's website regarding "Off set bushings"... "Offset bushings raise the steering rack, to maintain proper steering geometry on lowered Mustangs and reduce 'bump steer.'"

I can't link directly but go to Steeda's website and look up "Steeda Urethane Steering Rack Bushings"
On Edit: Here's the link... http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/urethanerackbushings.htm


Or else is there something I am missing here...?

I think you may have misread Maximum Motorsports webpage and it wouldn't be wrong for you to do so... Eventhough Maximum Motorsports is well liked for the most part in the Mustang community they have made mistakes. I have called MM to the floor over misprints on their pages and have had it out with them over which springs go with a certain Mustang year/style... I've also send them back merchandise because they couldn't back the specs they had while the manufactures were giving contridicting versions. They have changed on-line catalog pages because of mistakes I have found on them.

Don't just take one parts seller's site's word for something...
 

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Actually, they raise the rack if intstalled correctly, but that's not important here. I agree that MM may very well be wrong, but that quote is referring specifically to lowering a car. Otherwise they wouldn't say, "make an acceptible situation far worse than if you had done nothing at all". Which is also why they sell tie-rod ends. I also would trust Steeda about this, but I'm sure if you asked them, they would tell you to run the X2 balljoints and not the rack bushings because they do a better job of correcting a lowered car's steering geometry.

Having said all of this, and considering that many companies sell offset bushings, they must work at least OK. However, most of the companies like Steeda and MM sell tie rod ends and other things to correct the geometry, so there may be something to what MM says about not using the offset bushings.

Sorry to ramble.
 

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X2 ball joints don't correct steering geometry, they bring the front roll center back up closer to stock height. When a mustang is lowered to much, the roll center drops below the ground and actually moves side to side. This causes erratic handling and excessive body roll. I've done a back to back comparison of my Mustang (H&R SS + Illumina's) to my neighbors Mustang (Eibach prokit + Illumina's) and my car rolls noticably more than his on the same shock setting and is actually a bit unsettling to drive in comparison. We have some footage of each car in a turn and it is obvious that my car rolls more than his. Next weekend I'll be installing some urethane spring isolators and X2 balljoints up front to correct this problem.

As for correcting steering geometry, I've heard from many sources that adjustable tie-rod ends are the way to go. Both steeda and MM sell them, so they at least agree on that point. I can't give any useful input on the offset bushings.
 
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