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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok guys, I need help bad!!! I got my car back today and it is a liitle off. Here are the problems:

Press the clutch to the floor and it is very very hard to get into first, reverse or any gear when driving. Do i need a quadrant adj. or what?

Next, my car wants to stall :mad: everytime i stop and go into nuetral or stay in gear. I think this has do with the alum. flywheel. How the hell do i fix that?

Also, when go to nuetral it feels like the car is losing power.

I have stock gears so I think that is the reason that i have to rev a little more to get of the line right now. It bog in first which again I believe is the alum flywheel. Is it?

The shop set the timing to 11 should i increase it w/ the ported heads?

Well, I think my car will be great as soon as I get the quarks out of it. I need so advice from people with knowledge and experence. Thanks for the help you guys!!!
:confused:
 

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I had the same stalling problem, and I've believed it to be because I had an aluminum flywheel at times, but the fact that the engine won't start back up by putting it in gear when rolling and popping the clutch tells me it's something electronic. I've started getting some erratic idle speed problems and believe it to be my IAC valve now. I have a replacement on the way.

Your aluminum flywheel will work a LOT better with a lower (numerically higher) gear like a 4.10 or 4.30! Or a power adder behind it. :)
 

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I don't think your problem is related to the Aluminum Flywheel.
Never had that sort of problem when I put in mine. It actually revs up a lot faster than it did and it never bogs down as you describe it. I actually had to get used to not squeeling the tires off the line every time I took off because of the faster spin up of the Aluminum FW. The stalling in neutral could be because your tuning is off. I had the same problem once prior to the Aluminum FW install. It was right after a bad tune and the car started to loose rpms and stall at almost every Traffic light in neutral.
Had it tuned by the Fordchip guys and never experienced that problem again!

The hard shifting could be because your quadrant is giving out and not pulling the clutchfork far enough to disengage the clutch.
I would get that taken care off ASAP or you will ride that clutch to death or damage your transmission in one way or another.
I like the UPR Quadrant and Extreme Firewall adjuster!! Don't get their Clutch Cable they are no Good! Get a new Stock Cable to use with the new Quadrant set up. Also I highly recommend the Maximum Motorsports Clutch Pedal Height adjuster. Great mod which helped me shift a lot faster and smoother.

Hope you get that problem taken care off Soon!

Tom
 

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I think your problem is tune/computer related. I recently had a new clutch and aluminum flywheel installed and never had the problems you described. Maybe you IAC is dirty, mass air is dirty, filter is dirty or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, i am gonna take it to get it tuned very soon then. I am trying not to drive it until then. I'll see what happens. Thanks alot for the info. Any more will always help.
 

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Hi,

You need to get rid of the stock quadrant and adjuster. I had some problems getting my car in gear when I first installed the Spec clutch and aluminum flywheel. Shifting got a lot easier after the clutch broke in too. I've got stock gears and the car doesn't bog so your problem may be elsewhere.

dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What could do the bogging? How long until it broke in?
 

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Hi,

It took about 400 miles and a day at the track before it shifted easy. Now it's easier to shift than when the car was stock. The bog will probably go away when you get it tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, I just took it out and it was alot easier. It has about 150 miles on the new engine and clutch setup. Any info on making sure I break the engine in correctly? I have kept it below 3200-3500 rpms most of the time, letting it go above that rarely so far. Let me know. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, someone told me to drill a 1/8 inch hole into the butterfly to allow more air at idle. Does that work or is that completly wrong? When I tune shoulc I get a custom chip? Let me know. Thanks!
 

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I would just leave it until you get it tuned. I think that will solve your problems. Yes will get a chip when you get it tuned or they will flash your eec if its Fordchip.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Which is better to do? And what is the difference? Do u know wirth2k?
 

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if they flash the eec, you don't have to worry about chip problems such as the chip not making good contact or it coming loose. However, with a reflash, I don't believe you then can take it just anywhere to get it tuned because someone who isn't equipped to read a flashed eec won't be able to do it. It's kind of a win/lose situation. Personally, I would just get the chip. As long as you clean off the contacts real good and tape it on you shouldn't have a problem and you don't have to worry about compatibility if you decide to go somewhere else.
 

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texanstang said:
Ok, someone told me to drill a 1/8 inch hole into the butterfly to allow more air at idle. Does that work or is that completly wrong? When I tune shoulc I get a custom chip? Let me know. Thanks!
Don't drill a hole into your Throttlebody's butterfly. That is just totally idiotic!! Whoever told you that should be shot!...

Just get the damn thing tuned. Reflash is my favorite but a chip will do for now. Just clean the contacts well and make sure the chip is seated properly. Stick with Diablo or Autologic for your chip choice. Stay away from Superchips.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks alot you guys. I am going with the chip. The place I am going said they are planning on doing a custom chip. Is that smart?
 

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The only way to tune the car is either via a chip or a EEC reflash.
Make sure the place you are taking it to knows late model mustangs and how to tune them. It isn't as easy as it sounds and I had a few bad tunes before which made my car run worse than before the tune. IF you have a professional dynotuner in the area that knows Mustangs well then that would be your best bet! If not Mail order is a last resort and there are only a few I would trust with mail order cookie cutter chips.
Fordchip.com and Chris Johnson. They have done this for a long time and have extensive experience with our cars.
Don't just take it to anyone and have them put a so called "Custom chip" in. Most of those Witch Doctors don't know what they are doing...

Either way good luck and I hope you get your car running right soon!

PS: Check also for Vacuum leaks and anything that could cause the car to run rough..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bumped up the timing to 14 and replaced the filter and it made a world of difference!!! It still needs to be tuned though which I will be doing next week. How do I go about checking for vacuum leaks? Does it cost alot?

Thanks alot guys!!
 

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sounds like you are on the right track. As for vacuum leaks, just check each of the hoses and make sure they are secure. All you probably need is a tune especially with cams. I second the autologic or diablo for a chip.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The place that I am taking it is called strickly performance in south houston. The specialize in 4.6 mods. They also race at most major events and have won alot of races. Has anyone heard anything about them? Quality wise? Am i allowed to start a thread asking people about them?

Once again thanks guys!!! Don't know what I would do without yall!!
 

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you need to readjust the stock quadrant....had the same problem when I replaced mine (hard to get in gear, stalling sometimes at idle) you have to reset the quadrant....instructions are in the Haynes manual I think, been a while since I've done it.

SJ
 
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