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Not sure WTF EJthePJ is talking about. First he says that no one addressed the change in balance because of the addition of the TA then he says that myself and fast-frank-d did address it. Anyhow the TA 5 or 6 springs is how you get the balance back, or at least most of it. I ended up also adding a pair of Eibach sway bars and that really helped the front end stick better. I know that goes against conventional chassis engineering logic but because it took a lot of body roll out of the car the front is now using the whole foot print of the tire and not rolling over on the outside edge.
I guess what I was talking about is that I didn't see anybody that had explicitly stated that it will "upset the balance". Yes you and fast_frank gave the correct solution, but I must have missed your explanations as to why the solution was needed.
 
I guess what I was talking about is that I didn't see anybody that had explicitly stated that it will "upset the balance". Yes you and fast_frank gave the correct solution, but I must have missed your explanations as to why the solution was needed.
Below is my previous quote. I implied an upset in balance, but not explicitly stating it. It was kind of sandwiched in the middle of my reply.

.... If you can't get air with your front tires with your torque, you either need more rear grip or your chassis is drooping (flexing).
Some added clarification... for the OP's torque levels listed in the sig, he should be able to pick up the inside tire on corner exit once he has the rear grip working well enough to do so (e.g. upsetting the balance of the car). At that point, he will understeer on 3 wheels. He can then set the front tire back down by either softening the front (recommend less sway), or stiffening the rear (recommend more spring), or both.

Frank
 
Below is my previous quote. I implied an upset in balance, but not explicitly stating it. It was kind of sandwiched in the middle of my reply.



Some added clarification... for the OP's torque levels listed in the sig, he should be able to pick up the inside tire on corner exit once he has the rear grip working well enough to do so (e.g. upsetting the balance of the car). At that point, he will understeer on 3 wheels. He can then set the front tire back down by either softening the front (recommend less sway), or stiffening the rear (recommend more spring), or both.

Frank
Hi Frank!

Yes I see what you were saying...that is why I agreed with you & j rick. :)
I just figured that for those reading this post, that are less initiated in chassis & suspension dynamics, it would be good to state in more plain terms what was happening. That way a person new to all of this could hopefully understand the information as well.
I understand your explanation because I have experienced that phenomenon. I've also gone through the process of trying to re-balance the car.
For a new-ish person going from a relatively stock type suspension with the classic fox body mustang oversteer...to a set-up that now dramatically understeers...it could be quite a surprise!
 
CAM is a great class for the Mustang. Moreover, CAM-C's weight break is 3200#. The rules are unlimited for suspension so a full MM set-up front and rear would make a world of difference.

But let's say you are on a budget and can only do a few things at a time. Get an MM PHB (or Watts link if that is your flavor) installed and a rod-ended PM3L. Install the PM3L on the PS, and remove the DS upper all together. Raise the rear spring rates to at least H&R Race; install Bilstein HDs. In the front, get an MM C/O kit for Bilsteins (or Konis - but IMHO, don't bother with the SAs; Bils are better and cheaper). Front spring rates can be in the 250-275 range with the conventional H&R Race rears. Ride quality will be night and day improved and A/X performance will be transformed (both results primarily due to the reduced/eliminated rear bind in the suspension). NVH will increase in the cabin due to the gear noise being transferred by the rod-ended PM3L. This assumes you already have FLSFCs.

On Edit: Read a little more carefully and see you have a PHB and ordered the T/A. But the problem you already know about is the SFCs. I had the same issue and cutting out the old and welding in the new SFCs plus installation of the T/A is expensive. And, you still won't have necessary supporting pieces to take advantage of the rear suspension upgrade.

If not too late, I'd send the T/A back. Put the T/A money into the front C/O kit, the PM3L, rear H&R conventions and Bilsteins. This configuration nearly gives you the same benefit with a lot less cost but also a firm foundation for improvements as budget permits.
 
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