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Discussion Starter #1
any suggestions for my speedcal install Monday, any problems anyone ran into I got the directions off the website kind off long and not real clear but I have not been under there yet so I really cant judge yet
 

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Make sure the scotch lock they give you is firmly crimped - it connects the red wire to your cigarette lighter wire. Also, make sure this red wire doesn't ground on your shifter - it will blow a fuse.
Other than that, take your time and and double check your dipswitch settings before putting everything back together. Don't change the settings with power connected. It's a nice product
 

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Just did mine this afternoon. Easy as pie. The most pain in the butt part was jacking the car up to get to the VSS connection. The only question I had to call about was the 7 setting dip switch, because the instructions weren't too clear. Set that one by switching the #1 to the top and the other six down. As the other's said, crimp the scotch lock down tight on the red wire.
 

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I agree, the hardest part is jacking the car up. This is a very clean install and it works great. The only thing I have ever noticed with this product is the first time and only the first time I used the cruise control, it didn't stop accellerating until 5mph higher than I set it when going up a hill and then it just coasted back down. It never did it again.

The key to the perfect install, TAKE YOUR TIME WITH IT! If the directions aren't clear, read them over and over. After I did my install, the directions were crystal clear. You have to love a product that performs exactly as it claims it will.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info everyone I will be installing mine on Sunday before the gear install and now I find out the guy I bought gears from sent me 7.5 rear end gears instead of 8.8 so I am scrambling to find some used gears to keep my appointment
 

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I too have a DM SpeedCal awaiting installation.

I dont have the unit here with me, so im going to ask what i had a question on when last i looked at it and the instructions.

There is one "BANK" that the instructions tell you to set according to your vehicle. I believe it states something about a one wire alternator hookup and a multiple wire setup..............which do i choose?

Also, you guys been mounting the unit under the shifter column like where the directions state? Seems like it'd get awfull hot under there?

I really dont like to work on my vehicle, so this install should take "ME" appx. 6-8 hours:(

Thanks,
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I believe that bank is first switch up the rest down install is not too bad just take your time mine will probably take about 3 hours or so
 

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the seven switch bank setting is 1000000
I put the "box" in the space in front of the shifter on top of a piece of insulation
 

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Discussion Starter #9
now thats enginenuity....lol nice thinking i might try something similar I bet it does get hot there I am more worried about getting the right wires connected on the tranny than anything else really
 

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Guys, if you have any questions or it gives you problems in the install shoot me a PM or an email. I designed the unit.

For Mustangs, the 7 switch bank should be 1000000. I tried to make the instructions generic. Sounds like all I did was make them vague... lol... sorry about that.
 

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TriBlkCobra said:
I tried to make the instructions generic. Sounds like all I did was make them vague... lol... sorry about that.

I didn't think they were vague. As long as you take your time and read carefully, I can't see a problem with them.

Also, good job with the unit. Works fine for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
acutally cobra I have not been under the car yet since the motor install so they are probably pretty good instructions I really cannot judge yet and looks like a pretty good product I give it 2 thumbs up as everybody says it performs like you say it will. I just need to get under the car and check for the wires and connections that I need to make it work. From what I have seen on here you back your products so thats worth alot to me and many other's I am sure
 

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Hey guys, i went ahead with my SpeedCal install. I must say, i was leary at first having only read the directions, but it went ok. Id hafta say the only 2 problems i had were the top 2 8mm bolts that hold the shifter boot thing a ma bob down(i had no LONG extenstion to use with my swivel), and the other was getting that darn "red tab locker" thing out of the OE connector. I tried to be gentle, then got frustrated and it came out.

I guess the thing works, it snowed a bunch here so i didnt get it out and test it, but i did do a ghetto test. I jacked the rear of the car up and put jack stands under the axle and just let out the clutch in 5th gear. Speedo worked! I went upto 30mph and noticed it climbed alot slower than when i did this right before the install today, so its doing SOMETHING! :D Went from 3.27's to 4.10's, if i recall correctly the 10-switch code was like 1010000010, right?

Thanks for the help above on the "7switch bank", i had mine set wrong before install:eek:

Also, now that i was under there, i see where the DM MIL clip in......shoulda done that when i was down there. I got this wimpy jack that hates anything over 1500lbs:evil:

Thanks,
Tony
 

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Tony, 1010000010 is correct for 4.10's. Let me know if it acts up. Also, if you have problems with the Mils, let me know that also as I designed those too! :cool:
 

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Well, you do good work, i especially liked how you gave notes on the colors of the wires and what they did(example: on 99> Mustangs, the ground wire is the grey/red strip wire). I do not have a tester and woulda surely done it opposite. Little things like that matter.

Thanks and good product. I do no have the MIL's yet, as i still have the OE CATS in......in due time however.......

Let me know when you design a computer box that will increase compression ratio and add lift/duration to my cams! LMAO! :joy:

Thanks,
Tony
 

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In NC, starting Jan 1, 03, when we go to have our car inspected they are hooking up to the computer to see if the car throws a code. If a code pops up, you fail inspection. So now I have this catted x-pipe that we all know turn the check engine light on after 500 miles. Mil eliminators aren't going to help for some reason so, if you can think of something that won't cause the computer to toss up a code, I'd be willing to buy that!

Just a thought.
 

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GIDDE UP, actually Mil Elims will work just fine, because thats exactly what I'm doing. I too have a catted X pipe that still threw the low cat efficiency codes (P0420 and P0430). I just installed a set of Mil Elims that I "happened to have laying around the house" and passed like a champ. We too have to pass an OBDII scan now.
 

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Ahhhh. I had heard from someone, obviously not well informed, that the Mil elim's still caused an issue with the test.

Guess I better get on the ball and buy myself a set!! Thanks for setting me straight on that.
 

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Just be sure and do an OBDII scan just prior to getting it inspected. If you have a "pending code" logged the light wont be on but there's still a code in the EEC. I honestly dont know how emissions testers handle pending codes. Pending codes are flagged when an event occurs and triggers the code to be flagged in EEC memory as "pending". The vehicle is given a number of warmup cycles to see if the event occurs again. If it does, it flags a MIL. If it doesnt re-occur during those extra warmup cycles, the code will clear on its own without ever having lit the MIL.
 
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