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Hundreds of thousands of these AC circuits were made, and worked perfectly without a “pusher” fan in the front.

if you have an obstruction reducing airflow, clear the obstruction.

to me, your pressures are off.
What are you using as a guide to determine the high/ low pressure relative to ambient/ humidity?
 

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Hundreds of thousands of these AC circuits were made, and worked perfectly without a “pusher” fan in the front.

if you have an obstruction reducing airflow, clear the obstruction.

to me, your pressures are off.
What are you using as a guide to determine the high/ low pressure relative to ambient/ humidity?
In my opinion, the biggest problem is a 3 core radiator. I believe its killing flow across the radiator which in turn kills flow across the condenser which causes the high side to be higher than normal compared to low side pressures. I ran a stock style radiator for quite a long time. Even with a blower. Adding a 331 with a turbo is when I finally needed an upgrade.
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Hundreds of thousands of these AC circuits were made, and worked perfectly without a “pusher” fan in the front.

if you have an obstruction reducing airflow, clear the obstruction.

to me, your pressures are off.
What are you using as a guide to determine the high/ low pressure relative to ambient/ humidity?
Your typical automotive ac gauge pressure set. It’s a buddy of mines set
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
In my opinion, the biggest problem is a 3 core radiator. I believe its killing flow across the radiator which in turn kills flow across the condenser which causes the high side to be higher than normal compared to low side pressures. I ran a stock style radiator for quite a long time. Even with a blower. Adding a 331 with a turbo is when I finally needed an upgrade.
I think the radiator is the biggest factor as well as overall heat soak
 

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I think the radiator is the biggest factor as well as overall heat soak
Have you thought about just getting an oem style radiator from the local parts store? The stock radiator in most cases is more than sufficient.
 

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In my opinion, the biggest problem is a 3 core radiator. I believe its killing flow across the radiator which in turn kills flow across the condenser which causes the high side to be higher than normal compared to low side pressures. I ran a stock style radiator for quite a long time.
I agree that thicker radiators reduce airflow, but if that were his issue then his coolant temperatures would be higher,

The air is pulled through the condenser first, then the radiator, and there seems to be plenty of airflow over the radiator core.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I agree that thicker radiators reduce airflow, but if that were his issue then his coolant temperatures would be higher,

The air is pulled through the condenser first, then the radiator, and there seems to be plenty of airflow over the radiator core.
It’ll struggle a bit more on a hot day versus when it’s not as cool. When temps go over 100 ambient coolant temps never really drop below 180 degrees. Usually it’s able to cook itself off to 170° where I have the fans set to turn off. They come back on at 180° On the highway it’ll sit at around 175° on really hot days with the ac not running and with it running it’ll sit at around 185-190
 

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I agree that thicker radiators reduce airflow, but if that were his issue then his coolant temperatures would be higher,

The air is pulled through the condenser first, then the radiator, and there seems to be plenty of airflow over the radiator core.
The radiator is more efficient but pulling air through 3 cores is going to slow down the air velocity. The air passing thru the condenser is less than it would normally be with a stock radiator.
 

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Right, but his coolant temps are 20°-25° Cooler than normal.

sounds like he has plenty of airflow over both cores.
 

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Keep in mind that the A/C works MUCH harder to lower the humidity in the air than it does to lower the temperature. If you run on recirc for 15 to 20 minutes and then the temperature starts to come down, your system might be good. If the weather is humid, and 80% is WAY humid, you should always run on recirculating.
 

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But you had changed the orifice tube at the beginning as well, correct?

different brand tube this time?
Vacuum, System recharge ?
 

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That just goes to prove that new parts don’t mean they are good parts.

did you bother with the pressure readings this time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
That just goes to prove that new parts don’t mean they are good parts.

did you bother with the pressure readings this time?
I was able to hook up some gauges and the pressures read fine. its been a bit cooler out too but we did the fill in around 80 degree temps and still got good vent temps.
 
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