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Discussion Starter #1
how in the hell do you get the pistons back in???? i have tried my ass off to budge it, but it will not move!!!! has anyone done it lately??
 

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They are basically "screwed" back into the caliper, not compressed back in like the fronts would be...There is a special tool, but if you're careful, you can use a pair of vise grips or channel locks to screw them back in....The item you'll be ruining if you don't take your time is the dust boot for the caliper pistons...It's definitely do-able, just be careful and take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it really sucks.....taking forever....i have the tool, made by lisle...and it sucks too....doesn't fit cause the pegs are too big....
 

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Nothing wrong....

Nope, its just a major ***** to get them "screwed' in, I used channel locks, worked, but was tough as hell.
 

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Rotors...

while you're at it...JC Whitney sells slotted and drilled rotors for like $60 a piece. If you replaced all four it would be around $250....just a thought.

No better performance, but they look good.
 

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As tight as mine were, I can only imagine how much fun using that tool would be.....lol:eek:
 

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Don't forget to open the bleeder when you do it.
 

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I just remove the cap from the master cylinder....then there's no bleeding needed...
 

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Then you risk backflushing old fluid into the system, not a good idea on an ABS car.
 

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What?

How is that backflushing old fluid into the system? Isn't it just the same fluid, but excess is going back into the fill resevoir?
 

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Yes it's the same fluid but the fluid accumulating in the calipers gets rust flakes and gunk in it and according to brake industry experts, if you let that get back in the lines it can make its way back to the ABS control valves and result in costly repairs. Now whether or not that's a reasonable risk is up to you. Opening the bleeder is a cheap way to make sure it doesn't happen.
 

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I had the same problem - compressing won't work. When I learned that they twist in, I pushed back the rubber boot and put some pliers around the round cylinder. Then I twisted for days until it was full in and the rubber boot wouldn't push back any farther. Don't forget that the V-shaped cut out on the cylinder needs to line up with the pin on the brake mount (sorry, I can't remember the tech names right now) so that they assembly will slide back in. I had one side where the pin wasn't going into the V-shaped cut out and no matter how hard I pushed on the spring-loaded assembly, it kept clinking on something. That something was the pin that needs to fit into the cylinder.

(Perhaps someone can explain that better.)

Disclaimer: I had the caliper completely off when I twisted the cylinder, so it wasn't really that hard.
 
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