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Hey guys I was wondering if you use the SN95 t5, bell-housing, clutch fork,etc...in a 93 foxbody without switching input shafts, what driveshaft will work with a 7.5 rear-end? I figure it's better to go this way over sourcing foxbody bellhousing and the input shaft, if I'm wrong can some of you guys chime in...thanks.
Oh yeah. What crossmember would I use. Right now the car is auto/A4LD by the way
 

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I’ve actually got my a5 from my old sn95 in my fox and it works perfect. I ended up setting my engine back some on the k member I’ve got so I ended up shortening the driveshaft some, which was a stock 95 driveshaft.

The crossmember is different though. You’ll need to use a fox one or a stifflers.
 
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I’ve actually got my a5 from my old sn95 in my fox and it works perfect. I ended up setting my engine back some on the k member I’ve got so I ended up shortening the driveshaft some, which was a stock 95 driveshaft.

The crossmember is different though. You’ll need to use a fox one or a stifflers.
Thanks! Can I ask why you set the engine back on the kmember. I know where a fox crossmember is now. I wonder if it matters whether it is auto or manual (crossmember)
 

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I believe they’re the same for manual and auto.

I had the option to slide the engine back, figured I’d rather have it as far back as possible.
 

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A SN95 T5 has a different length input shaft, bell housing and clutch fork position than a Fox T5. I installed a Fox T5 and bell housing into my '95 GT but it required a driveshaft spacer, cross member mod and opening the shifter hole in transmission tunnel 3/4" forward. The SN95 engine sits around 1" forward in the chassis compared to a Fox. The one downfall of using a SN95 T5 is that you can't buy a SFI approved bell housing for it if you wanted to race.
 

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To say what fasterthangas said in a diffferent way. If you put a 95GT T5 (bellhousing to tailshaft complete) in a completely stock factory 5.0, it will fit BUT... the shifter move 3/4" rearward, the driveshaft should then be shortened for this. Speedo cable and wiring should be fine as well. The trans tunnel will likely need to be modified to accomodate the change.

It sounds like you have a 4 cyl. auto car and want to swap. Driveshaft from a 5.0 will bolt to 7.5 rear (same flange as 8.8).

Back in the day (mid 90's) I had an '83 V6 auto hatch. I swapped in a 302 2bbl/AOD from a mid 80's Crown Victoria. I used a 3.45 geared 7.5 from a wrecked 88 4 cyl. I had. The original driveshaft from the V6 worked unmodified.
 
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Thanks! Can I ask why you set the engine back on the kmember.
Other than the option, moving the motor back helps with weight distribution. Typical Foxs are not optimally balanced for serious track duty. Moving the motor back 1" and the front axle center forward .75" or more changes the weight distribution for better balance.
 
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