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Formerly LSNotch
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I hear you. I think most are just putting away the toys for the winter. I know I am since I can't do much with these cold spells, plus the track in closed.

Looking at your signature it seems to me that you know a thing or two about traction with a small tire and probably stock style suspension. Can you enlighten me on anti-squat and what is the preferred way of doing things with drag radials or slicks? I'm thinking about buying the baseline suspension upper control arms relocation kit but can't get my hand wrapped around on the benefits if my current I/C is at 106% based on the calculator provided by baseline.
 

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Yes. Seems the forums have died, with facebook and other social media. It’s a shame. I miss the days before all that. People should come here and post more. I’m going to start a new build thread on my 88 twin turbo 427 6 speed street car soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I hear you. I think most are just putting away the toys for the winter. I know I am since I can't do much with these cold spells, plus the track in closed.

Looking at your signature it seems to me that you know a thing or two about traction with a small tire and probably stock style suspension. Can you enlighten me on anti-squat and what is the preferred way of doing things with drag radials or slicks? I'm thinking about buying the baseline suspension upper control arms relocation kit but can't get my hand wrapped around on the benefits if my current I/C is at 106% based on the calculator provided by baseline.
I'm far more of a drag radial guy than slick guy. Anti-squat at a basic level is how hard the suspension geometry is going to drive the rear end into the ground. I've always taken it as 100% is kind of "neutral" if you will.. The higher the percentage the more more to separation there's going to be upon launch, and heading south of 100 is going to cause the car to "squat".

I/C height and length as well as A/S need to be considered to maximize the effort. but it all depends on what you'r looking to do.. the type of car you're dealing with. Also, buying the absolute best double adjustable shocks/struts as you can reasonably afford will only help as well. It's a package thing..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes. Seems the forums have died, with facebook and other social media. It’s a shame. I miss the days before all that. People should come here and post more. I’m going to start a new build thread on my 88 twin turbo 427 6 speed street car soon.
Yeah.. there's facebook.. it's not something that I am into all that much.

That's a whole lot of turbo for a street car.. what are you planning on doing with it?
 

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Yeah.. there's facebook.. it's not something that I am into all that much.

That's a whole lot of turbo for a street car.. what are you planning on doing with it?
I built this combo back in 2017. Have been racing it in local no-pre stick shift class and nmra true street. Car has good street manners on the 93 pump gas time. Plan to switch from the Holley hp to the dominator. Need more I/O. Currants tha e to unhook stuff to monitor other stuff, drive shaft speed, exhaust pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I built this combo back in 2017. Have been racing it in local no-pre stick shift class and nmra true street. Car has good street manners on the 93 pump gas time. Plan to switch from the Holley hp to the dominator. Need more I/O. Currants tha e to unhook stuff to monitor other stuff, drive shaft speed, exhaust pressure.
Do you have power goals? I tend to not think in "street car" terms anymore, or at least something that I'm going to want to get in and drive a long ways. Twin 88's even at 427" can make 2K+ hp without trying all that hard. Those kind of power levels just doesn't make a whole lot of sense for something that's driven.. BUT that's just me.. I have an old Euro Taxi that's plenty quick for anything to drive every day... lol

The Dominator stuff is great, know a number of people running it. I've helped my buddy his holley stuff. I think it's a terminator?? But he's going to do to the dominator for more logging points as well. I've heard good things about Fuel tech and also Haltech if you wanna go Aussie.. but really any of them would work fine, and if you're already used to the holley.. that's the move to make for sure.
 

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Do you have power goals? I tend to not think in "street car" terms anymore, or at least something that I'm going to want to get in and drive a long ways. Twin 88's even at 427" can make 2K+ hp without trying all that hard. Those kind of power levels just doesn't make a whole lot of sense for something that's driven.. BUT that's just me.. I have an old Euro Taxi that's plenty quick for anything to drive every day... lol

The Dominator stuff is great, know a number of people running it. I've helped my buddy his holley stuff. I think it's a terminator?? But he's going to do to the dominator for more logging points as well. I've heard good things about Fuel tech and also Haltech if you wanna go Aussie.. but really any of them would work fine, and if you're already used to the holley.. that's the move to make for sure.
As far as horsepower the car made 1196whp and 922wtq on 18psi.

I say street car because car still retains all its origin interior w/back
Seats, has heat and full exhaust out the tailpipes. And I would and do drive it. Has a street friendly hydraulic roller cam.

Car has been [email protected] on race gas tune. 1.2x 60s on a 28x10.5 stiff wall slick.
[email protected] on 93oct 8psi.

I really like the Holley stuff. Easy to use and the car is already all setup for it. It’s a easy as unplugging one ecu and plugging the other in.
1053425
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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823 Posts
I'm far more of a drag radial guy than slick guy. Anti-squat at a basic level is how hard the suspension geometry is going to drive the rear end into the ground. I've always taken it as 100% is kind of "neutral" if you will.. The higher the percentage the more more to separation there's going to be upon launch, and heading south of 100 is going to cause the car to "squat".

I/C height and length as well as A/S need to be considered to maximize the effort. but it all depends on what you'r looking to do.. the type of car you're dealing with. Also, buying the absolute best double adjustable shocks/struts as you can reasonably afford will only help as well. It's a package thing..
Thank you for the explanation. I've always raced with drag radials, and recently started considering the switch to a slick. Although I know the pros and cons on each one, I still love the fact that I can drive to the track on the same tires, lower the pressure, let it rip, raise and come home.

So if I understood you correctly the 100% doesn't necessarily mean that's the number to shoot for? I thought each way over or below the 100% was a bad thing but once again, that's why I am asking you. Would you say that getting over 100% anti squat on a drag radial stick car is the way I should go? I have tokico d spec adjustable shocks but I am willing to go double adjustable.
 

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Thank you for the explanation. I've always raced with drag radials, and recently started considering the switch to a slick. Although I know the pros and cons on each one, I still love the fact that I can drive to the track on the same tires, lower the pressure, let it rip, raise and come home.

So if I understood you correctly the 100% doesn't necessarily mean that's the number to shoot for? I thought each way over or below the 100% was a bad thing but once again, that's why I am asking you. Would you say that getting over 100% anti squat on a drag radial stick car is the way I should go? I have tokico d spec adjustable shocks but I am willing to go double adjustable.
Ultimately a slick is going to work better on a stick shift car. I run both on my car. 1200whp stick shift car. And a stiff wall slick works the best.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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Ultimately a slick is going to work better on a stick shift car. I run both on my car. 1200whp stick shift car. And a stiff wall slick works the best.
I understand that for all out maximum traction a slick is the way to go. Does the stiff wall slick helps keep the speeds up and doesn't grow like a radial unlike the traditional slick?
 

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Facebook, it's a good thing though, most of the jackass idiots now post over there instead of on actual forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As far as horsepower the car made 1196whp and 922wtq on 18psi.

I say street car because car still retains all its origin interior w/back
Seats, has heat and full exhaust out the tailpipes. And I would and do drive it. Has a street friendly hydraulic roller cam.

Car has been [email protected] on race gas tune. 1.2x 60s on a 28x10.5 stiff wall slick.
[email protected] on 93oct 8psi.

I really like the Holley stuff. Easy to use and the car is already all setup for it. It’s a easy as unplugging one ecu and plugging the other in.
1200isn't enough? Yes, that sounds odd I get it. What ultimately are you gunning for? Seems this is a race car driven on the road more than anything. You're giving up a lot with the retention of the street stuff. But again.. just personal preference. Some dude had a pro-mod make it through drag week.. does it make it a "street car"? I guess, it did make it 1000 miles in 5 days or whatever it was. but what a ****ty driving street car!

With the twin 88's you're thinking about, the power potential is exponential to what you're running now. So, the question becomes, does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for the explanation. I've always raced with drag radials, and recently started considering the switch to a slick. Although I know the pros and cons on each one, I still love the fact that I can drive to the track on the same tires, lower the pressure, let it rip, raise and come home.

So if I understood you correctly the 100% doesn't necessarily mean that's the number to shoot for? I thought each way over or below the 100% was a bad thing but once again, that's why I am asking you. Would you say that getting over 100% anti squat on a drag radial stick car is the way I should go? I have tokico d spec adjustable shocks but I am willing to go double adjustable.
I wouldn't be driving to the track on the modern, or "top tier" drag radial unless it's COMPLETELY dry out.. lol YEah.. it's got a DOT stamp, but a good street tire it is not. I'd still have a different set of rims with regular radials to just drive around on.

Numbers are just numbers, and depending on suspension set-ups the car will want different things. Another thing to think about is the more anti-squat put in, the better the shock needs to be.. again.. very broad brush characterization. Reason being the force of rearend separation requires more refined control of that force and speed of movement. If memory serves the Tokicos are more of a general driving/street type shock? Which could very well work for what it is you're doing.

I tend to think in terms of max effort stock suspension racing, so what I would run is complete OVER KILL for most. entirely unnecessary. First thing to do is decide on where you want to be.. then build to it. Or slightly over build to it to all ow for the inevitable power creep that comes. lol
 

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I understand that for all out maximum traction a slick is the way to go. Does the stiff wall slick helps keep the speeds up and doesn't grow like a radial unlike the traditional slick?
My car is Will mph faster on a radial. The stiff wall slick does still grow, but is more stable than a soft slick.
1200isn't enough? Yes, that sounds odd I get it. What ultimately are you gunning for? Seems this is a race car driven on the road more than anything. You're giving up a lot with the retention of the street stuff. But again.. just personal preference. Some dude had a pro-mod make it through drag week.. does it make it a "street car"? I guess, it did make it 1000 miles in 5 days or whatever it was. but what a ****ty driving street car!

With the twin 88's you're thinking about, the power potential is exponential to what you're running now. So, the question becomes, does that make sense?
1200isn't enough? Yes, that sounds odd I get it. What ultimately are you gunning for? Seems this is a race car driven on the road more than anything. You're giving up a lot with the retention of the street stuff. But again.. just personal preference. Some dude had a pro-mod make it through drag week.. does it make it a "street car"? I guess, it did make it 1000 miles in 5 days or whatever it was. but what a ****ty driving street car!

With the twin 88's you're thinking about, the power potential is exponential to what you're running now. So, the question becomes, does that make sense?
The car is a 88. I run twin76s. I’m not putting 88s on it. Lol. 1200 is good power. I’m happy with it. Great street manners. And is a monster at the track. I hear you in the street car race car thing. But I would consider mine more street than race. Just because it’s capable of big power dosnt mean it’s a race car. And as far as drag week and promods making it 5 days and 1000 miles. That’s great they can do that. But I’m sure when they are done they have to go through that whole car. Not so street car.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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I wouldn't be driving to the track on the modern, or "top tier" drag radial unless it's COMPLETELY dry out.. lol YEah.. it's got a DOT stamp, but a good street tire it is not. I'd still have a different set of rims with regular radials to just drive around on.

Numbers are just numbers, and depending on suspension set-ups the car will want different things. Another thing to think about is the more anti-squat put in, the better the shock needs to be.. again.. very broad brush characterization. Reason being the force of rearend separation requires more refined control of that force and speed of movement. If memory serves the Tokicos are more of a general driving/street type shock? Which could very well work for what it is you're doing.

I tend to think in terms of max effort stock suspension racing, so what I would run is complete OVER KILL for most. entirely unnecessary. First thing to do is decide on where you want to be.. then build to it. Or slightly over build to it to all ow for the inevitable power creep that comes. lol
I do have a separate set of wheels with the drag radials which I install when going to the track. I may just bite the bullet and buy a trailer for the stang to use slicks. Nothing like getting the looks and thumbs up while running great times with a car you just drove there though.

I have no idea on these Tokicos and what they can actually do. The previous owner installed them, but honestly I don't know anything about those other than they are adjustable. If I am able to control extension, control, rebound, etc, which I doubt considering the single adjustability they may help. Otherwise, I will be looking for the double adjustable shocks. Any suggestions? I know Strange, QA1, AFCO and Viking are some of the ones I know. Price may be a thing to consider since this is not an all out drag car, BUT it may turn into one... who knows.

No doubt that power creep is an addiction and I cannot promise myself the car is going to stay the same forever.

Thank you so much for the info!
 

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Been a away for a while, and wow.. there sure doesn't seem to be a whole lot of people posting these days..
yup and seems that the website refresh didn't help

plus they took away the iTrader rating
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I do have a separate set of wheels with the drag radials which I install when going to the track. I may just bite the bullet and buy a trailer for the stang to use slicks. Nothing like getting the looks and thumbs up while running great times with a car you just drove there though.

I have no idea on these Tokicos and what they can actually do. The previous owner installed them, but honestly I don't know anything about those other than they are adjustable. If I am able to control extension, control, rebound, etc, which I doubt considering the single adjustability they may help. Otherwise, I will be looking for the double adjustable shocks. Any suggestions? I know Strange, QA1, AFCO and Viking are some of the ones I know. Price may be a thing to consider since this is not an all out drag car, BUT it may turn into one... who knows.

No doubt that power creep is an addiction and I cannot promise myself the car is going to stay the same forever.

Thank you so much for the info!
If you're asking.. I'm a BIG fan of Menscer shocks.. but I do have the privilege of knowing him personally. He's insanely smart, and has some extremely quick guys running his stuff. Now, again, to beat the drum, the big thing is "it depends". I mean, people have been pretty quick with the old lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's. Of the companies you listed, call each and ask them to suggest a shock/strut package.

But in reality.. just run what you have for now.. no use in changing until you feel they're not working for you.
 

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My M/T 28x10.5 stiff (3055s) with tubes,marked 87.75 or 27.93.
On the street, with tach and GPS show about 2.2 % growth (28.55) at 135.
Very stable at speed and letting off.
 
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