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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I got a 351W the other day, and quickly sold it to make a quick buck! SOLD IT for $285 + Lunch lol

Well I have access to a pair of NISSAN 300z turbos off a motor in the junkyard, with manifolds bolted to them, they want $120 each...

Now here is the problemo, will my engine hold up to the power of twin turbo?

Holley Systemax II 300-573 2.02/1.60 Heads, ARP Bolts, Systemax II upper/lower, 1" Phelonic spacer, Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, Comp Cams 351spec .544lift cam, Comp Cams Double Roller Chain, Ford Racing 24/LB injectors, Aeromotive Adjustable FP Regulator, Edelbrock 75mm TB, PRO-M 75mm MAF, K&N FIPK Non-Fenderwell Induction, Foglight RAM AIR, Flowtech Equal Length Headers, Flowtech Off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Series 40 Mufflers w/ turndowns, Rord Racing Subframe Connectors, 4:10 rear end gears, Brand New AOD-E transmission, Trans-Go Shift kit, Eibach Sportline Springs. Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge.

Those are my mods, so can my bottom end take it?

BTW the engine has 36,000miles and the mods have 10miles on them, if this makes any difference?

Transmission is BRAND NEW! with less than 500miles!

thanks for all your help guys!

BTW I checked out many turbo stang sites, and dont have any direct answers... so out of personal experience or any help at all will be greatly appreciated!

Pete:D
 

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First of all, the turbos are going to require a lot of work. Check to find out the a/r ratios on them and also that they have no end play. Either find a custom header or have one built out of parts of your headers and the flange that mounts to the turbo. As for your engine, you'll need to ditch the 24 lb injectors because they only support 375 hp (probably more but that's what they're rated to) under boosted applications. Also, get a smaller cam. One of the best cams for turbos is the stock one (sounds stupid but it's the truth). You'll need to send the mass air back to Pro M most likely to have it recalibrated (bigger injectors and type of aspiration). You're engine should be able to handle up to 500 hp safely, but some have been pushed way beyond that without breaking. You'll have to keep boost low to not exceed that. The twin turbo setup that you have in the making will probably easily exceed that, so be careful. Mild turbo combinations can make a lot of power, have fun with yours.

I X L
95 Cobra hardtop convertible
"an Evil SVT in the making"
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya the turbos off the Z have 96,000miles on them, and definantly going to take them to a turbo shop to get them re-sealed and check for any damage...

I plan on flipping the headers and welding the flange to them, I have a 2.5" raised hood with dual scoops on them(CERVINI), So I don tthink height wise it will be a big concern, altho I would love to keep my A/C and factory wiring where they are, and yea I got a plan for the trunk mount battery!

I got the injectors figured out, im planning on 42's and PRO M wants $100 for recalibration.

As far as the cam goes, I agree that the stock cam will be good, but i want a more boost specific cam, instead of the coincidental factory cam.

I plan on daily driving this car, well for the most part, and do not want to go crazy with boost, im just looking for ~375RWHP, nothing more.

I have no idea how to adjust wastegates, I do have a guy with a intercooler but its intended for 1 turbo, can it be made for TWIN?

Can regular muffler tubing (2.5"-3") be welded and used for a proper setup? meaning from flange to intercooler and back to exhaust... reason I ask is there are lots of muffler shops around here with custom tube bending machines, and I can bend some things with a flexible hose to shape it and take it to the guy to bend it.

I have a basic setup in my head, but dont know how to have an intercooler setup correctly, or how to re-direct the exhaust, any pointers?

THANKS GUYS!
 

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Here is just advice (or just a really strong recommendation). First, you can keep all your factory stuff. That is the beauty of fabrication, you can make it fit or find someplace to put it. You just have to make sure that if the turbo is close to anything that actually as a function (powersteering, hoses, a/c, wires, fuses, etc.) PROTECT THEM! The turbo has a tendency to melt things or heat fluids up a lot. As for your only wanting ~375 hp, you should get it, but you'll probably have to try to keep it down with your current combination rather than most people trying to get it up there (not a bad thing:D ). For the wastegates, if they don't come with them, you can look around and find some really good ones. This is not the part to get cheap on. You can also get them to where you can just adjust them from inside the car. The intercooler is a different story. If you don't want to buy a new one (I don't blame you they are very expensive), you can get a skilled welder to weld to smaller ones together or just run them in line (not the most efficient method but it works). Make sure to get ones designed for a 2.5 liter engine (2.5 * 2 = 5.0) or as close to 2.5 as possible. You could also take the two smaller intercoolers and put them after the turbos and have the piping after them meet and run through the mass air. This is probably a lot easier to package than two joined together I think. As for the exhaust, you might want to get stainless steel or at least mild steel to make it. DON'T MIX AND MATCH METAL! Due to the different rates of expansion after they heat up you can end up destroying a pieced together exhaust in no time flat. Also, lower the amount of connected, non-welded pipe to a minimum. That's just more of a chance for a leak. As for the actual routing out of the turbos, try to keep it simple. Some people have the exhaust exit before the front wheels! And for the wastegate, give it its own exhaust pipe if possible. This is an optimum setup (it looks trick also). Hope this helps. Any more questions feel free to ask.

If anyone doesn't agree with me feel free to interject.
 

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some questions for you

What year did you get the turbos off of. If they are from the newer TT Z's, then they are too small. My suggestion is read all of the posts and Turbomustangs.com. I have been there since last summer and just now have enough info for what i want to do.
Alot of the guys are not running intercoolers, and that will save alot of money. Other than that 36's of 42's, with Pro-M universal is the best thing, but some of the guys run Bullits and C&l meters.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks a lot I X L(whats your name btw?)!!!
just one thing im stuck on what you said and that is -And for the wastegate, give it its own exhaust pipe if possible-... i dont quite understand what you mean by that?!?! sorry for being slow!

OCSHAMAN: I do not know what year the motor is from, but the turbos are basically still on the motor, from what the man said they are attached to the motor and do not know what year they came off of.

I need to stop by there tomroorow or saturday and give myself a look!

So you dont need intercoolers?

I wouldnt know of a way to connect 2 turbos into one intake anyother way than an intercooler... hmmmmm maybe a 2 into one connector like this T/B --< two turbos joined at one? sorry for that cheap illustration! lol

but ya on the short note, only want 375rwhp and thats it, well thats until I crap this block and build up a nice 331! but thats far away!

LATER GUYS!
PETE

I APPRECIATE ALLL YOU HELP!

Also how would the oil connections connect?

thanks again!
 

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There are guys in the 9's without intercoolers. If you don't want intercoolers, look into water injection, alcohol injection, or propane injection. IF they are both on the same car, they are too small. What you want to do is look for turbos of cars with half the displacement, same as intercooler. THe wastegate lets off the extra exhaust after the turbo reaches preset boot, if you put that back into the regular exhaust, then there is a disruption in flow, and the less backpressure, the less chance of boost creep which occurs when the wastegate is too small to let enough gases out to keep it from going higher.
 

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Hey Pete,
You might not have to use an intercooler at all since you want to remain at a relatively low boost level (~375 whp). From what I've heard, don't use the water injection kits as they are more of a bandaide than anything. The other two are fine but they probably won't help you if you're sitting in traffic a lot (even intercoolers will be at one of their lower efficiency levels). The intercoolers though are always "on" and never have to be refilled. This is much like the SC/turbo vs nitrous debates. Oh, I forgot to put in camshaft recommendations last time. My one word of warning is not to get one designed for a SC (even a centrifugal). This is a hit or miss attempt at camshaft selection. You want one that maximizes the exhaust gas velocity and has little overlap. Now, the wastegate question. The reason for separate tailpipes for the wastegates is for two distinct reasons:
1. More positive in response
2. Slightly more effective at controlling boost
Also, joining the two pipes into one can most easily be imagined by thinking how a Y-pipe exhaust looks or by thinkink of an X-pipe and instead of 2 in 2 out making it 2 in 1 out. Get the picture?
BTW, the name is Doss.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hey guys! I broke down and got a turbo off ebay...

its a turbo off a diesle truck...

"This is a 6.5 liter turbocharger. It is off of a 1998 chevy with 77852 miles. this turbo is in good working condition. will fit on late 92 to 2000 6.5 turbo diesels chevy or GMC "

I know I mite have some nice turbo lag up to 3000-3500rpm... but I like the idea of having the competitor thinking he is beating me, then to just waaaaaaaaaammmmm hit them when they least expect it!

So do you guys think I kinda went a little overboard?

I just need to desperately try to find as much information as possible on the turbo... such as is it oil cooled or water cooler, or both?!?!

guys im going turbo!

now does anyone have any 42lb injectors laying around?

THANKS!
PETE
 

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I always wondered how a turbo off of a deisel would work. How many lines are coming out of it?
 

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yellow5.0cobra said:
I know I mite have some nice turbo lag up to 3000-3500rpm... but I like the idea of having the competitor thinking he is beating me, then to just waaaaaaaaaammmmm hit them when they least expect it!
Just as long as that's not the sound your motor makes at about the same time... big lag, big boost, big boom! :D

So do you guys think I kinda went a little overboard?
Why yes, of course. But isn't that the name of the game? I can't wait to see how it turns out -- and either way, it's creative, which I admire.

Personally, I'm chicken**** enough that I'll probably just get a KB blower, even though I think turbos sound really fun (just really expensive, too).

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hey thank for your support guys!

But this project wont have the ball rolling for a couple months, for the fact I need to save some dough for the 42lb'ers and recalibration of my MASS AIR METER...

The cost to bent the pipe is around $10/ft

And I got the great idea of crossover pipe and turbo intake tubing... im just stuck on the header issue and how to weld the correct flange to it...

as far as how many lines there are, I have no idea...

I am to submit payment tomroorrow for the turbo and get it shipped to me asap!

Now comes the intercooler, injectors, MAF, tubing... its just begun!

Pete
 

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Hey, MM&FF went mid 11s with the stock fuel system on a junkyard TT :D . I'm not endorsing it but hey... it worked. You should be able to just buy mandrel bent sections of pipe for less I think. Check around on the net. Good luck and Godspeed...literally.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ya i checked the mandrel bent tubing, I dont like it!

I like to custom bend it with the flexible pipe from pepboys, then bring the muffler shop my bended pipe, then they copy it on to the 2.5" or 3" SS exhaust piping.

I dont like the idea of WELDING 200 pieces of tubing together to make a simple bend!. Too many chances for boost leak, too much fabricating.

thanks so much for the support again!

PETE
 

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Hey man, there's nothing wrong with doing it right. I like your style.
 
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