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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know if Comp Cams puts the same info on all their cam instructions, but I didn't think you really had to do the old 30-minutes/2000 RPM break-in thing with a roller cam. However, the sheet that came with my 270HR says the only lubrication the cam and its bearings get is from crank splash and the only way to ensure the cam gets its oil for break-in is to run it at an easy 2000 RPMs. My neighbors will love me :rolleyes: Should I, or shouldn't I, do the 30-minute/2000 RPM deal? FWIW my engine-building father-in-law told me not really, just take it on the highway for an easy 15-minute ride and not to worry about wiping out the cam getting there.
 

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Hydraulic roller..... NOPE, no break in required, solid roller... have to be warry of prolonged idleing if restrictors are used.

Trick on the big block side is they actually cut a circular grove down around the lifter bore. That drip lubricates the roller.
 

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hey MFE, i must have got the same instructions as you with my XE266HR, as it suggests the 30min/2000 rpm deal. It also stated to remove the inner valve spring in a dual set up for that 30 min break in period.

thats alot of extra work, and until i read those instructions i always thought a break in period wasn't required on hyd rollers.

whats your take on the spring issue Kim?
 

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Roller cams don't need a break in period, but it is still suggested that new valve springs go through several heat cycles before the engine sees alot of RPM's. Otherwise, the springs are supposedly more susceptable to breaking.
 

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nope.... leave it the way it is.

as for heat cycles in springs.... the one thing that kills springs (fatigues them) is heat. Some springs only live up to thier potential for a very short period of time.

If its a roller, assemble as you intend to drive it. Break in, consists of getting it up to operating temp to check for leaks, set timming. Then use as intended/built.
 

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As stated above.... no break in. The guys that built my engine, (builds alot of Fords) said that as soon as the motor is fired... check for all leaks, etc etc... That I could go beat on it as hard as I wanted..... Thats if I had it on the engine dyno... cause thats the motor break in.. but... for the cam.. fire it up and go drive it :)
 

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Cool got her in. Don't forget to change the oil soon after you put a few miles on it. You going to bring it out to the meet this Saturday? I should be able to make it. The last 2 weekends have been bad to go out. Hopefully this weekend will be good. :)
 

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MFE... make sure you post your impressions! I am anxious to hear a credible report on how this cam works in a "stockish" motor. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
mikejb said:
Cool got her in. Don't forget to change the oil soon after you put a few miles on it. You going to bring it out to the meet this Saturday? I should be able to make it. The last 2 weekends have been bad to go out. Hopefully this weekend will be good. :)
I wish! I haven't even started the project yet, I'm just now finishing collecting all the parts. And i NEED to do a shelving project in the garage to free up some working room before I get started on this but something tells me rational thinking is going to fall by the wayside and I'll end up going in head-first. It's still going to be a couple weeks in-process because I can only afford small blocks of time here and there to get it done.

Thanks for the break-in advice folks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
novadude said:
MFE... make sure you post your impressions! I am anxious to hear a credible report on how this cam works in a "stockish" motor. :)
I am 100% confident it'll give me a shot in the arm, but I won't let that blind me to objectivity. I wanted a cam that would boost my mid-range, the test is going to be to see if it does that without sacrificing too much of the low end.

I was very impressed with what 5.0 magazine got out of a Crane 2031 on a combo like mine, and this should be even better if Buddy's and some others' feelings about valve timing and whether or not to favor the exhaust valve are correct. The 2031 and its similar 2030 cousin intended for 1.6 rockers like mine, have lazier ramps, a wider LSA, and favors the exhaust. The 270HR has more agressive ramps (keeps the seats sealed longer relative to adv dur), a tighter LSA (earlier intake, later exhaust = more cylinder pressure if cylinder filling works as it should), and doesn't favor the exhaust (Buddy suggests not to with my exhaust system). So in theory it should work out pretty damn good.

I'll be sure to report back how it feels seat-of-the-pants, because it may be a while before I can get it on a dyno. And I've added so much weight to the car with big brakes, heavier wheels and a roll bar, and moved away from DR's, that I don't know if drag strip e.t's are going to be a fair comparison. Frankly I'll be tickled pink if I can beat my previous DR best of 13.56 and 101.9 with. But that's not what I was after, I wanted more tractability on autocross and road courses.
 
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