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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, long time lurker!

Just as the title states, I picked up a decently modified 95GT 5 speed that's been abandoned for 10+ years. Found the car around the corner from my folks and bought it for $1500 on the spot without even opening the hood. The car came with an Arizona title, but is now registered here in so-cal on a non-op. Just need to get it smogged now.

Here is what I am working with







The car has a new engine in it, block is painted black, freeze plugs look brand new, all fasteners are ARP, GT40x heads, crane cobra rockers, trickflow track heat intake, 24lb injectors, 75mm Granatelli MAF, aluminum drive shaft, aluminum radiator, accel coil, ford racing plug wires, MAC shorty headers, T4m0 computer with unknow diablo chip, and a few other things. Camshaft??? unknow at the moment. janky welded straight pipe exhaust with two replacement cats, no mid pipe, rusted magnaflow mufflers and tail pipes that stick out a mile past the bumper.

this was someone's baby but was abandoned for unknown reasons.

I am in the process of tearing the engine out, all of the smog equipment and egr is there. The factory colored vacuum lines are cut and spliced with blue silicone hose, but I have another set I got on ebay. I kinda went nuts on ebay and picked up way too many OEM parts thinking it would fail the visual inspection. I have a factory air box, maf, spare throttle body, upper and lower intake and I picked up a brand new set of BBK unequal length headers just for the CAR-eo. The MACs on the car look like crap and the carb-eo plate is so worn I couldent make it out.

I would really like to run the combo of parts i have but possibly needing to swap the intake out i got to thinking about the engine combo. aside from the gt40x heads its damn near a cobra with the injectors and rockers so I jumped on a 95 cobra computer. I was planning on buying a stock replacement cam, melling SYB-51 and just running that with the 24lb injectors and swapping in the GT intake. of course I want more cam, hell the engine might have a "letter cam" or might be stock, who knows, I have absolutely no idea what is on that diablo chip and cant run 24lbs on the GT computer or stock MAF.

so what route would you take?

more pics





I have already completed everything suspension wise, BMR on car adjustable upper and lower control arms, spherical housing bushings, BMR torque box reinforcements, BBK bolt in subs with seat supports, Maximum motorsports K member brace, ford racing 3.73 gears, cobra front brakes, poly control arm bushings, new ball joints, sve coils, sve bump steer, sve caster camber plates, steeda strut tower bar, and lots more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I am torn between a stock replacement 4 cat system available on rock auto or the big dollar magnaflow X pipe 4 cat system that costs nearly 3k! carb compliance in california sucks. aside from the cats being the main issue or cause for financial heart attack, I would definitely like to add a better cam, but knowing how picky this generations computers are I'm not sure I want to take that risk of idle or low speed issues. finding a tuner is nearly impossible, I hear bama sucks, and i know nothing about tuning a quarterhorse.

was looking at tiny tiny cams, not much information out there on the comp XE258hr-14 its a lot smaller and more affordable than a steeda 19, but both of those cams are rated for 1.6 rockers and the legendary crane 2031 is obsolete. If If I didn't have to buy cats I would sell the GT40x heads and get some AFR 165 renegades just for the carb-eo. and re-install the trickflow after smog.
 

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so what route would you take?
I would suggest that you move out of that communist state.

you could run 24# injectors on the stock eec, provided that it was tuned for it with the diablo chip. (Or even the MAF)

I wouldn’t have changed any of that stuff. I’m not sure why you are planning to replace it with stock stuff, but 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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If you're tearing the engine out anyway figure out what cam is in it now. I would have got it running as is, replaced the exhaust and tried to pass smog before I started changing things on the assumption it may fail. You can get a remote tune using quarterhorse. Decipha at efidynotuning.com or Leech motorsports comes to mind.
 

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Even that cobra ECU will fail the visual because it's not factory. So I've heard. This issue could be a complete nightmare with Cali emissions with a car like that. Better off starting over with a complete stock intake to oil pan 94-95 engine. Or? 🤷‍♂️
 

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Since those cars are not OBD-2 the ECU won't matter. They won't even check it at a normal smog place the only place it could be an issue is if it gets sent to a ref. Not to mention most of the places don't even know what to look for when they smog a car this old. They are going to follow a check list does the EVAP system work is the base timing 10 degrees does it have the proper cats on it what levels come out of the tail pipe. They will put the probe in the tail pipe and run the car up to 25 mph and check whats coming out of the tail pipe. The tough part is finding a place that will still smog a car that old. Most don't even have the equipment to smog them anymore or just don't want to deal with them. Most of the equipment to smog these cars is from the late 90's early 2000's and just don't work anymore and it's to much of a hassle to keep them working.

If it looks pretty stock and you have carb eo numbers for the parts on it you should be fine. Depending on where you live in CA you might only have to smog it once. Some counties only make you smog the car when you buy or sell a vehicle.
 

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, I have absolutely no idea what is on that diablo chip and cant run 24lbs on the GT computer or stock MAF.
I actually think 94-95 GT's and Cobras use the same 70mm MAF. The programing is in the ECU for the GT's to use 19# injectors and the cobras to run 24's.

You could probably run your setup on the 19# injectors. I wouldn't be making WOT passes down a dragstrip like that, but it would run the combo and be driveable. Might be something to consider until you get smogged. Then you can modify away.

I temporarily ran my TFS-headed combo with 19#ers just for the initial fire up and some shake-down cruising and it the engine ran beautifully like that.


EDIT: MAF size is 70mm not 75mm
 

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Do what everyone else here in Cali does and get a crooked smog so you can run whatever tf you want. Will probably set you back like $250-$350 but that’s chump change compared to spending all that coin just to get it to pass legally (and then spending all the time to put it back how you had it). Honestly sucks that California residents have to resort to bending the rules like this, but it is what it is, gotta pay to play here in America.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you all for the support! I normally post updates on pro-touring.com, living in so-cal I have a collection of smog exempt muscle cars, all manuals, all holley efi. But as usual, they sit, I never drive them.

For those that dont know, California smog rules REALLY suck. The car would fail because the trickflow intake does not have the a carb-eo number stamped in it or a proper decal like what k&n ships with a CAI. The 75mm maf isnt compliant, neither is the crappy inatke piping, adjustable fuel pressure regulator... no go. Cats need to have a specific number that matches the cars engine family. I went thru some crap getting a 2001 tahoe Z71 smogged because it had replacement cats and the carb-eo number was facing the floor pan.

I actually live in the San Bernardino mountains, for reference, west of Lake Arrow Head. we have a few smog/repair shops up here that service OBD1 cars. My neighbors son got a bucket 80s NIssan Z car to pass, he just cough* cough* left it over night at the shop...

I would like to know just why this car was abandoned. I was expecting to find gears and other things but lots of common upgrades were left untouched. Rear end still has 2.73 gears, stock clutch cable and adjuster, stock shifter. I was curious about the clutch so I removed the trans. Found a well worn cobra clutch and stock flywheel. Lots of hot spots. Since it now reduced to just a chassis on jack stands I figured why not pull the engine? I thought it had a GT40x crate engine but the amount of ARP hardware and autozone pilot bearing leads me to believe it was recently rebuilt or new. The block is black like a new crate engine would come and also all the freeze plugs are brand new. same with the balancer and water pump. no grease or build up at all.

I called BBK while looking for headers and just asked if they gave out Carb-eo stickers for parts and they do! They sent me a magic sticker for an intake I don't even own. lol Trickflow has been stupid to deal with. I called, said I had a street burner intake and needed a sticker. Its been 4 seperate phone calls and 2 emails and every single time the guy on the line takes down my name and address and nothing show up in the mail. If one ever shows up I will just keep the track heat installed. Isnt that amazing a sticker with a number fixes everything.

The stock parts I picked up were less than $300, that included all the emissions pumps, vacuum lines, charcoal canister, air box, maf, intake tube, egr, throttle body, iac, and upper and lower intake with the 5.0 plaque.

Im switching the T5 speedo gears out and installing a new bearing retainer along with a MGW shifter, RAM hdx clutch,TO bearing, mcleod light weight steel sfi flywheel, pivot ball stud, mcleod fork, and a new ford pilot bearing. The car is basically getting "restored" for longevity.











I have so many parts for this car laying around
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Additionally, someone took the time to wrap the engine engine harness and every wire bundle in blue electrical tape and blue plastic tubing when the engine was out. I am pulling the engine to remove all of that crap. Arizona car, everything rubber was dry rotted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pulled the engine yesterday, quite challenging with all the accessories and those MAC headers still attached. I ended up cutting all of the AC lines. The liquid line from the dryer was melted in half and all the oil from the compressor was leaking out of the suction and discharge line. no biggie, they need replaced anyway. Found out the car has a fluidyne radiator in it!







found missing header bolts, blow out gaskets, burnt plug wires and horribly fouled sparkplugs.

Cracking it open tomorrow to inspect the cam, might pull a head to see what bore and pistons are in this thing. I also noticed the previous owner used head bolt reducers and stacked the arp washers over them. I was told to use one of the other.

Balancer has a SFI sticker on it. its rusty but new. unknown brand. would like to know what timing set is in this thing as well. Going to upgrade to a one piece oil pan since the pan is studded.
 
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