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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone!

Well I just put in a TFS setup including. TFS TW heads, Street heat intake, 70mm BBK throttle body/egr spacer and a e303 cam with new timing chain. the car has pretty good power up top but is really sliuggish down below under 4k. I am running my base timing at 18*, ive tried 16* and 14* and nothing has changed. The car runs great, but there is reallly no more power then before. It only ran a 14.38 in the 1320. Just wondering if maby the cam is rely retarded? I installed it with the dots lined up perfectly, but cams have been know to be retarded from the factory. Also the chain is not extreamly tight, it has some play in it, but not a lot. What do you guys think? maby advance that puppie? Honestly, i feel no more power than before with my stock engine.

thanks,

Jeremiah
 

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why didnt you degree in the cam when you installed it? thats the only wany uou can be sure how many degrees the cam is installed in.

Allen
 

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maybe you should try that then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unfortuntly I don't have a degree wheel. I would have loved to do it though. How off can the cam be off.. Could I just advance the cam one tooth on the chain?
 

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Phazer1000 said:
How off can the cam be off ,,
I had a Gt40 crate engine w/ the e-303 cam. The cam was degreed from the factory at 113*, so it was 3* retarded. I also assembled my own engine with a true 0 timing chain and it came out on the money at 110*.

The TF peeps will tell you it's because the e-300 sux, but your gonna lose some power down low with any cam.

Phazer1000 said:
Could I just advance the cam one tooth on the chain?
Nope, you need a timing chain with different positions for retard or advance. Or a kit with inserts to advance or retard.

I felt the same way when I did my first engine. I was very disappointed with the power a felt ( especially w/ my AOD) Until I raced a dude down the road that ran neck and neck before my mods. After the mods I killed him. He would stay beside me until about 3000rpms, then when he stopped pulling, mine was just starting. Anyway I smoked him bad. Get to the track, you'll probably run at least mid 13s w/ street tires.

BTW: the e-303 pulls past 5500rpms, it's better to shift around 5800-5900rpms.
 

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Well a degree wheel is cheap and well worth the investment. I would assume that you used a new timing chain set when you installed the cam. Without a degreeing the cam you have know way of knowing how far the cam is or isnt. My cam was a degree off so 1 tooth would have been too much. I had to use a offset cam keyway.


Looking at your mods you should be in the lo 13s to hi 12s. One thing you didnt mention is your 60' times and MPH since these are helpful in deteriming if things are right. What I mean is if you have 2+ second 60' times and a really high MPH as the end then its a traction problem or launch problem. You also didnt mention what size your MAF is. Personally 70mm TB might be too much but I have not moded my 93 LX yet so I could be way off on this. My 82 Capri however is running in the lo 13's hi 12's range.


Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I had a 2.01 60ft at 100.13mph. Almost everyone i have seen and talked too has said that the car is way slower than most cars with that many mods. It's like driving a school bus untill i get to 4k. I also have stock mass air and injectors
The car ides pretty choppy also, but then smooths out quite a bit in closed loop.
Thanks,

Jeremiah
 

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oh dude

I misread your post at first. Your running a 14.38 in the 1320 now, w/ your mods? If thats the case sumums wrong. Give us your whole combo ei..... exhaust, gears, fuel ect...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Guys, Thanks for the help, you guys are great.. Well here is the whole deal.


TFS TW heads
TFS Street Heat Intake
70MM throttle body/egr spacer
1.6 RR TFS
6.750 TFS pushrods
E303
Aluminum Drive shaft
3.73 FMS gears

Like i said, the car has little TQ and is only good up top. Any suggestions? Its kinda embarrising dumping 2 grand and gaining .3 off the 1320. I've ridden in many 5.0s, and they all have way more tq down low. with much less mods.
 

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I think the stock mass air meter is really holding you back, like trying to breath through a straw.

Get a bigger one with matching 24 lb'ers.

Also what type of exhaust are you running?

I've heard the E303 can be pretty choppy due to the 110 LSA.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry i forgot to say that i am running a H-pipe with no cats and flowmaster exhaust with BBK equal length headers.


Jeremiah
 

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at first i thought maybe the fuel system was holding u back.......but since the problem is in the low rpm's it sounds like a cam problem......but dont be so quick to rip apart the motor again. try making sure everything is connected. i remember in my old stang one vacuum line was disconnected and i couldnt even lay a burnout. after i connected it i was getting rubber on the 1-2. if you cant figure it out have someone else look at it. those 3 73's should make up for the loss of torque downlow so it could so something else besides the cam. good luck
 

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What I'd do is; check the vacumm. (The e-303 should make about 13"/hg @ idle with your combo). Check your compression. Install an air meter, 24# squirters and at least a 155lbh fuel pump.


If it's still the same, tear it back down and check/fix the degree.

BTW: Is it an AOD or t5?

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yup saw that... thanks.. So if I just advanced it one tooth, would that be too much you think? What would happen if the valve train timing was too far advanced?

Jeremiah
 

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Phazer1000 said:
yup saw that... thanks.. So if I just advanced it one tooth, would that be too much you think? What would happen if the valve train timing was too far advanced?

Jeremiah
Nope, you need a timing chain with different key way positions for retard or advance. Or a kit with inserts to advance or retard.

Shifting the timing chain a tooth would advance it too much. Too much advance would bring your valves too close to the pistons, (probably the valves would hit the pistons)
 

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well.......actually you can shift the chain over one link if it was off the first time you degreed it. my e303 cam was almost 6 degrees off when i put it in.....i switched the chain over one and it was almost dead on. just got lucky i guess
 

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Phazer1000 said:
not sure what you mean. Shift the chain and crank one link, or shift the cam and chain one link?
Either way it is the same thing, you just have to go opposite directions depending on which gear you "jump" on and whether you want to advance or retard. Take your time, you'll figure it out.

Yes I know the gears have a different number of teeth .... it is the same thing if you really think about it.

I have had to do this twice on cams that were WAAAYYY off. One was a Mopar though.
 
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