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Discussion Starter #1
I asked this over on BON but also wanted some input from here. My car is not starting and we believe its the starter. We jacked her up and noticed the starter is very hard to get to. We got the bottom bolt off but how and the world do we get the hidden bolt above the starter out? We could really use some help here on what steps or tricks there might be. Im not in the mood to drop a bunch of money on a shop if we can get this sucker out of there ourselves. Its a 99 cobra, stock exhaust (seems it might have to move).

Sean
 

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You do not have to remove the exhaust. I have had to remove my starter two times to repalce engine mounts on my 96 cobra. You will need several socket extensions and a flex end to get to the two top bolts. You will have to put the socket on the flex end and the extensions in through the front of the engine by the engine mount. It is hard to see the bolt, so you will have to feel your way arond to get the socket on. There is a top bolt almost right above the bottom bolt and one next to the engine block. Good luck.
 

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That damn bolt is a beyotch! I had to use many extensions and duct tape on the swivals to make it easier. Duct tape is awesome. You need to feed the whole mess through the front left side if you are facing the front of the car. It helps to have a buddy feed it through while you are down there with your fingers on the area of the bolt so you can then blindly push on the socket. There is no other best way besides that as far as I know.

Oh I dont know if this is a good idea for these cars but I know you can arc the positive and ground wires on the starter with a long screwdriver to see if the starter turns over. I have done this in the past on a thunderbird with no ill affect. That way I knew it wasnt the starter that was causing the no start. It turned out to be the contacts on the battery that had no visible signs of corrosion but using one of those special wire scrapers designed for batteries fix the problem of the bad contact. Hope this helps some.

Also you can leave that bolt off when you put a new one in. I did and there is no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So how many bolts are there. I got the one out right above the bottom one. I thought there was just two, is there a third one up there? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Geesh, and I thought I was getting somewhere. At least its not 20 degrees out yet. Thanks.
 

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I feel your pain. I had to lay on my back when it was 28 degrees but luckily this was in a garage with a propane heater rig. Watch out for hypothermia! no sh*t.
 

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I feel your pain. I had to lay on my back when it was 28 degrees but luckily this was in a garage with a propane heater rig. Watch out for hypothermia! no sh*t. Someone can get hypothermia in 74 degree water - it is just a matter of exposure. So limit yours on a cold ground on your back.
 

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Not sure why everyone thinks that bolt is a pain, It was a snap for me. You just need a long extension. You would be suprised how easy it will come out with a long extension and swivel adapter. I used a 1 foot extension on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that bolt is giving us a real hard time. Spent forever working on it tonight and its still in. Im gonna pick up a longer flex shaft tomorrow and try again when its not so damn cold out. Ive tried all combinations of extensions and swivels, but I couldnt get a tight lock on the bolt, it just kept slipping cause the socket was coming down at too much of an angle. Oh well, will try again tomorrow. Thanks for the tips.
 

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I just did a LT header swap in my garage a coupe weeks ago and went through the same problems. I found the best way to get to the top bolt is to remove the motor mount nut on the passenger side (was able to do this with a 1/2 inch drive, extension and universal joint), use a floor jack and a piece of wood (2x4 about 18" long) and jack up the passenger side of the engine along the oil pan where it is bolted to the block (be careful not to dent the oil pan when doing this). Also, before doing this you will need to loosen your h-pipe from both manifolds so nothing get's bent. After you jack up the engine just an inch or two, you can snake the extension between the motor mount and engine block and get to it fairly easily. Sounds rough, but really not that bad.

Also, I did the same as RedSnake 97, and left the top one off...no problems.

Good luck!
 

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Man I feel your pain. I have removed and replaced mine seeral times in the past couple weeks. (elec probls, long story) If you use ( in this order) reg socket - 4 inch extention - universal - 12 inch extention - 12 inch extention - ratchet.

you can get right in there. It takes some maneuvering with your hands guiding and laying under the car. You cannot see anything so you have to feel. The ratchet will actually go between the uper and lower a arms and the motormount. I idi have to add one piece at a time till i figured out how to do it. Dont put it together and expect to shove it in there. Takes some finess. hehehe I got to both the top bolts like this. After the 3rd time replacing it I used a 12 point deepwell -- universal -- ratchet. Not much room to turn it but you can. Takes some wiggling to get it in there.

If you got the bottom one and the one directly above it out you only have one to go. Feel about 2 inched further inboard on the top of the starter and you will find it. Good luck. Hope that helps some!
 

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I must have just got lucky and hit the sweet spot right off. Now that I think about it my exetnesion was longer than a foot probably 18 inches.
 
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