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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 Cobra that I'm running a WMS SDS (stand alone injection system) with, or at least trying to run! My car's PATS keeps causing the THEFT light to flash rapidly and not allow my car to get spark and or 12v to the injectors (no clicky, no runny!). The SDS uses a MSD DIS-4 and that gets energy from the positive of the battery and from the hot lead where it splices to the middle coil wire at either coil. I've been over the wiring ten time, and it's all as instructed (WMS). I called WMS and they didn't have an answer for me, but did concede that it's a PATS related issue, and I'd need to bypass the PATS, but they couldn't advise how.

I know you can get a PATS bypass module (555F), but what about permanent bypass of the oem system altogether? WMS suggested that I might hook up my oem ecu to clear the code, and then reinstall their SDS after it's cleared, but that doesn't make sense???

What do I do? Should I buy the 555F, install an oem ecu in line with the SDS to allow it to start, send back the SDS to WMS for a refund and install a proper Cobra ecu & then chip it, or is there a more viabel option for me? I don't want to ditch the WMS SDS cause I still have faith in it's tunability with my P1SC etc., but I'm only pushin it now...

Please help...

Regards & thanks,

Steve
 

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Hey Steve, it's Brandon, how you doing? My guy was ready to do a hardwire bypass of PATS if he hadn't been able to get it going (turned out to be my aftermarket alarm causing the problems), so a PATS hardware can be done. I have a Chilton manual that even shows that some cars came WITHOUT PATS, so the system could be wiring to go AROUND the PATS system. The wiring diagrams should show this to you if you have them? There were better wiring diagrams in my Chilton manual than on the Ford CD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Brandon. I actually e-mailed you as well directly from my work e-mail. This has been driving me nuts today as you can well imagine? I do have the wiring diagrams from the Ford CD rom, and so I'm in the process of trying to figure out how to wire around the PATS. I also have a Haynes manual that has wiring diagrams in it as well. If you could let me know what Floyd figured out to wire around it, or that you came up with (being that you're an electronics whiz) that would be awesome. BTW, how's the mill working? You can tell that my troubles center around starting it. You would think that WMS Racing would have figured on integrating PATS into their SDS seeing how it was going on cars that actually have it! Oh well, we're all allowed mistakes. Jury is still out on the SDS until I can figure out how to re-wire the bitch...

Thanks Dude,

Steve
 

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I'm trying to remember where exactly the diagram was. Now that I think about it, I think Bill had actually printed out a picture off of the Ford CD-ROM which showed one diagram with the PATS installed and one with it not installed, and the diagrams were identical except for the PATS input and output, which meant that you should theoretically be able to just wire around it and not have to worry about a signal getting THROUGH PATS as it was just go around it. I'm assuming you've looked through the electrical/wiring in the CD-ROM though so I'm kind of at a loss as I glanced through the chilton manual as well. If I can find the Ford CD-ROM later on maybe I'll take a glance through it as well.
 

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Thanks again. I installed my back-up pcm to make sure that it was in fact the WMS SDS that was causing the PATS to go off, and as soon as I installed it, and turned the key hot, off the theft light went, and so it's a PATS related issue 100% for sure. So, if I'm going to be using the WMS system I must figure a way to bypass the PATS. I'll look at the same CD rom that you referred to as it's been my bible for the past year+ and do some scripture chasing. I also have a friend that's an electrical engineer that I'm going to throw this curve ball at to see if he can hit it. I'm not going to give up too easy. I have a lot of time and money invested in the WMS system, and so I think I just need to be persistent. I'm going to get a replacement ECM (96-98 Cobra), just as a back up and keep the Mafterburner I have as well to use with the back up if I need to. The thing I like most about the SDS is the fact it's "boost sensitive" and extremely tunable, but if you can't get the f*(^&er running, then what good is that!!?

Let me know if you come up with any other revelations. Meanwhile I'll work on a comparison and contrast between schematics with PATS and w/o PATS. Maybe you could let me know where Bill located it and under which section and subsection etc.? (EVTM or SERVICE and ?).

Patience is a virtue especially when reinventing wheels.

Later Amigo,

Spud out
 

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cobraspud said:
Thanks again. I installed my back-up pcm to make sure that it was in fact the WMS SDS that was causing the PATS to go off, and as soon as I installed it, and turned the key hot, off the theft light went, and so it's a PATS related issue 100% for sure. So, if I'm going to be using the WMS system I must figure a way to bypass the PATS. I'll look at the same CD rom that you referred to as it's been my bible for the past year+ and do some scripture chasing. I also have a friend that's an electrical engineer that I'm going to throw this curve ball at to see if he can hit it. I'm not going to give up too easy. I have a lot of time and money invested in the WMS system, and so I think I just need to be persistent. I'm going to get a replacement ECM (96-98 Cobra), just as a back up and keep the Mafterburner I have as well to use with the back up if I need to. The thing I like most about the SDS is the fact it's "boost sensitive" and extremely tunable, but if you can't get the f*(^&er running, then what good is that!!?

Let me know if you come up with any other revelations. Meanwhile I'll work on a comparison and contrast between schematics with PATS and w/o PATS. Maybe you could let me know where Bill located it and under which section and subsection etc.? (EVTM or SERVICE and ?).

Patience is a virtue especially when reinventing wheels.

Later Amigo,

Spud out
Hey Steve, could you shoot me an E-Mail at [email protected] ? I can't seem to send you a PM on here and I have a question for you.
 

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Has anybody figured out the pats system bypass I actually have a key for my car but my pen has malfunctioned so I have to replace it and I don't have the money to replace it and pay locksmih
 

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The biggest issue I found when bypassing the PATS was having to figure a way to power the fuel pumps, ignition, and fans. I did this by completely bypassing the CCRM using a number of relay modules instead. I can trigger the relay modules through either the General Electric Module with key on/key off or through an external switch panel I installed. I went this way so I could maintain functionality of the stock instrument panel before I decided to go completely standalone and installed a Holley dash. It wasn't cheap or easy to do the PATS bypass for me and it takes a good bit of knowledge to be able to read through the wiring manual to understand what all is involved with the bypass.
 

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  1. I was told to look up bypassing thru pcm.. Or diodes anything will help at this point... I have 4 mustangs in my yard only one with a working key
 

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  1. I was told to look up bypassing thru pcm.. Or diodes anything will help at this point... I have 4 mustangs in my yard only one with a working key
You might want to consider cracking the head of the key and removing the RFID chip (looks like a capsule) and super gluing it to the steering wheel shroud right under the key.. Then you can cut 10 keys and use them all.
 
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