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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, well I'm finally ready to do my clutch and I am getting a SPEC stage II w/ the STEEL throwout bearing instead of the plastic one. Anyway, I am also replacing these parts while I am at it, and would like some feedback as to if there is anything else I should replace while I am at it :

Steel TOB Retainer
Tailshaft seal
Pilot bearing
Rear main seal
Clutch fork pivot stud
Clutch fork cover (never had one before :p )

Anything else recommended that I change out? I saw a "T-5 Tailshaft Bushing" - is that a good part to change while I am at it? How hard is it to replace the tailshaft seal anyway?

Thanks for any info!
Eric
 

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The tailshaft bushing is what the rear transmission shaft rides in, kind of like a bearing. It's more than likely ok, I don't know how to get it out in any event. You got everything, just make sure to tell the fine folks of corral what was wrong with the clutch when ya get in there :D
 

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oops I forgot, do you have a clutch alignment tool? You didn't forget one did you? DID YOU? :mad: :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
haha, hello again Ray

apparently the SPEC kit comes with teh alignment tool, but if it does not, i'll go get one from the auto zone down the street on rental

also, is there anything else I need to replace? I was wondering also if there is a seal on the FRONT of the transmission itself, similiar to the tailshaft seal.

thanks man,
Eric

BTW, i know that I could take the it apart and maybe just replace what is wrong, but i just want to replace everything now and just be done with it. Besides the SPEC clutch is good up to 500 horses i beleive, so logically it would last a long time on my stock 200 horse engine, and i don't have to replace the clutch as i start building up the car.
 

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The TOB retainer is what seals the front of the tranny. You will need some RTV to seal that up. Are you doing a flywheel as well, or just having it resurfaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it prolly doesn't even need to be resurfaced, but regardless my brother's friend is taking it into his auto class to have it checked and possibly resurfaced

anything else i should know?

eric
 

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What's the deal with it? You gotta do it. Take the FW to Car Quest, they'll do it for $25.

Ash
 

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Depending on the flywheel condition it might need a resurface. Make sure they put the dowl pins back in the flywheel if it's resurfaced. IMHO I would not reuse the flywheel bolts. ARP makes a nice set. As far as the rear main is it leaking? If not leave it alone. If you are going to change it anyway good luck. If your going to replace the pilot bearing you might need the rental tool. It's alot like the axle bearing tool but smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are there any other bolts or miscellenous pieces you think I replace, rather than reuse?

Eric
 

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oh come on, that's the first time I ever heard a recommendation on replacing flywheel bolts. As for the rear main seal, oil seals have a finite lifespan and just because it's not leaking NOW does not mean that it will not start dripping all over the place next week, whereas replacing the seal when you have a convenient opportunity to do so will guarantee that you do not have to worry about it for several years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yea, i am not sure (pretty damn sure thought) that the seal is leaking, but even if it is not, i'm gonna do it anyway.

hell, the only reason i am replacing everything is because i don't want to have to do anything in there for a VERY LONG TIME

ray - any other recommendations as far as parts? I was reading in another post that the tailshaft bushing can have an effect on drivetrain vibrations, which I have, so I'm thinking of replacing it - is it tough as opposed to the tailshaft seal?

thanks man,

Eric
 

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Never replaced the tailshaft bushing or read up on it, so I don't know, you should do a search and see what you can find.

The reason it can cause a vibration is that if it gets worn it will allow the shaft at the rear of the tranny to wobble, which in turn allows the driveshaft to wobble, causing a vibe. If you get under there and grab the driveshaft close to the transmission and yank it up and down (your car shall be safely supported on stands of course :D) and it will not budge, then it is okay for now but you can't hurt anything to replace it. If it does wobble a little, make sure it's not a bad U-joint first...
 

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Some used flywheel bolts I have seen look like ass. There is noway in hell I would torque those bolts down 75 foot pounds and take a chance of it breaking. You have to take an impact wrench to get em off in the first place thats stress on the bolts and to reuse them your gambling when the ARP set is around 12 buks at summit. For the rear main that seal looks like a PITA to get out and put back in. I have no advise on how to take it out or put it in.
 

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TO get it out, use a flathead screwdriver, and a hammer. Be careful.

To put it in, tap around the outside gently, and slowly, it'll drop into place. Make sure you silicone the outside of the seal (where it meets the block)
 
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