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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my proposed package on my 94 GT AODE, with headers/x-pipe, flowmasters, and 3.73 already done. Please give me your opinion on mods/prices...Dont want to hear if something is better, just how you think THIS package will work in my car. Thanks:

Trickflow Street Intake---------$369
Trickflow TW heads-------------$935
Trickflow Stage I Cam----------$135
Trickflow Intake Adapter-------$82
BBk 65mm TB--------------------$189
Ford Alum Drive shaft----------$160
255lph inline---------------------$129
C&L 73mm Mass Air Meter----$229
24 or 30# injectors-------------$219
6.7" Push Rods------------------$69
Timing chain----------------------$79
Rockers 1.6 Stud mnt-----------$240

Gaskets/Bolts/Whatevers------?


Installation about $800-900...Looking at about $3600 total job.

What da ya think?
:joy:

Anything missing, and what kind of RWHP do you think this will get me with current mods and if I add 2400 rpm stall converter?

THanks in advance
 

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I'd get the C&L 76mm. It comes with a nice cast elbow for the same price. What you've outlined should get you 300 rwhp, I'd talk to Ed Curtis, or Buddy Rawls about matching a cam & get an intake recomendation from them (I don't care for the TFS street version).
 

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looks like 1/4 to me!

the cupholders drop the time atleast 4 seconds. That would explain the 14sec. car running 10 flat :rolleyes:
 

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Its a nice off the shelf combo and its the exact set up I run. The tfs stret intake is one of the best street intakes on the market, so I dont know why someone would recommend against it when the next similar intake on the market is $100 more(e-brock performer) I would forget the bbk tb idea and go w/ a accufab 70mm tb and a 76m c&l maf. Trickflow has a full gasket kit and its made by fel-pro and you will need a set of arp head bolts, pt# 154-3601. My car is not fully tuned yet, but it has went a best of 13.2 @ 106.50. I do think I will be seeing 108-109 trap speeds w/ tuning and a better launch. You can get a set of fms 1.6 stud mt rr's from mustangs unlimited for $199.
 

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Actually if you read my post, I suggested getting an experts opinion on which intake to run (not me). The TW heads will support 300 + RWHP easy, why make them drink through a straw? I've seen more than one post on a mild 302 that picked up by going to a larger intake than the streetheat like the trackheat, RPM etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
brj123 said:
does that sig say 10.00 seconds inthe 1\4 ordo you mean 1\8 mile
Read the "disclosure" on the bottom of my sig Regarding the 1/4 mile time.. It is 1/4 MILE..Look and youll see:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wrong Again TireSmoke

TireSmoke said:
looks like 1/4 to me!

the cupholders drop the time atleast 4 seconds. That would explain the 14sec. car running 10 flat :rolleyes:
The cupholders are in the Lincoln Navigator.. and it DID help the 1/4 mile in IT from 17.3 to 16.8...about 1/2 second!:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Grn92LX said:
Its a nice off the shelf combo and its the exact set up I run. The tfs stret intake is one of the best street intakes on the market, so I dont know why someone would recommend against it when the next similar intake on the market is $100 more(e-brock performer) I would forget the bbk tb idea and go w/ a accufab 70mm tb and a 76m c&l maf. Trickflow has a full gasket kit and its made by fel-pro and you will need a set of arp head bolts, pt# 154-3601. My car is not fully tuned yet, but it has went a best of 13.2 @ 106.50. I do think I will be seeing 108-109 trap speeds w/ tuning and a better launch. You can get a set of fms 1.6 stud mt rr's from mustangs unlimited for $199.
Grn..I dont know if you remember, but YOU are the reason I put this package together and Im glad you read and responded to it.
Remember I posted about Which H/C/I to get..You responded that everyone has their own opinion, and what matters is how the package works together and what "I" want. I think for value AND performance, this seems like the best "off the shelf" package I can do for the money..

BUT..Could you please tell me why on the Accufab 70mm TB vs the BBK 65 or Accufab 65? I have just heard a lot of negatives in going too big on the TB for what my setup will be like..I do however understand the C&L 76, I just cant find it priced anywhere on the Net.

You're awesome Grn..Thanks:joy:
 

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May I suggest an AFR 165/Trick Flow intake/custom cam combo? You're only looking at about $500 more if that and I believe it would be a stronger combo. In either event stick with a 65mm TB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Mustang LX AOD..
I have looked into it, and I just believe that everything is matched up well with this kit... and I have SOOO much more to do with this car now that $500 is a LOT to me at this point. If I were getting "CRAP" and saving $500, I would complain. But Im not..Im getting something just maybe a step below but still proven..Reasons for 65mm TB?

Anyone know where on the net to find C&L 76mm with pipe?

I found one for $219 on Brothersperformance, but the description says for 1985-1993..mine is 1994 :confused:
Thanks Again
 

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I wasnt the only one helping you on your last thread, there was another guy helping also:) Anyway, I say go for the 70mm because it will NOT hurt you to go bigger, it will be better for future mods which it sounds like you have future plans and the opening on a tfs intake is 75mm fwiw. I went w/ a 65mm, but should have went 70mm. You should try www.jdsperformance.com for good prices and the c&l 76mm maf. I bought most of my chit there.

Actually if you read my post, I suggested getting an experts opinion on which intake to run (not me). The TW heads will support 300 + RWHP easy, why make them drink through a straw? I've seen more than one post on a mild 302 that picked up by going to a larger intake than the street heat like the trackheat, RPM etc.
4play, actually you said you didn't care for the tfs street heat version intake. I cant see how you would say "drink out of a straw" when the street intake flows over 240cfm from what i've read. I have yet to see anyone pick up by going to a larger intake w/o changing anything else. He will NOT go any faster w/ an rpm or a rack heat intake w/ a mild cam. Unless he redid his combo, the stret heat is the intake he should get. His heavy 94GT could use the better lower power that te track heat will take away and move upwards. No flame either, just giving my advice since I have the exact proposed combo he was asking about. W/O a doubt a custom cam would be best choise, but he said he was on a budget and off the shelf was what he wanted.

Mike
 

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Your proposed combo is a good one. Any time you buy one manufacturer's fully matched package, you're not going to get "crap." Maybe not the non plus ultra, but it will be good, and it will work. Yours is a fine one for everyday street and an occassional fun foray to the track.

The 65mm throttle body will be fine, as would 24# fuel injectors.

When you assemble your engine, double check your rocker arm geometry with the 6.7" pushrods, just to be sure.

Don't let anyone talk you into changing to a "hotter" manifold unless you decide you want your whole combo pushed up the rpm range, and in that case, you'd need to change the cam, too. It's really important to match the manifold and cam, in any combination. TFS street heat with TFS stage 1 cam, TFS track heat with TFS stage 2 cam, etc. Brand doesn't matter; matching rpm design criteria for the manifold and cam is critical.

Steve A.
 

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That is a top rate out-of-the-box package that will get you a 1/4 well into the 12s with tuning and traction even with that heavy assed SN95:D. It sounds like you've looked at your alternatives, and you picked a good one.

Another vote for sticking with the Street heat. Also, if I had it to do over again, I'd also go with a 70mm, the C&L76, and 30lb injectors. FWIW, I have the 75mm Bullet, a 65mmTB, and FMS 24lbers.

The only other reccomendation, that I have for you is to save the money and do the install yourself. Hell, that'd even give you the money to go for a custom cammed Ed Curtis setup that'd take you into the 11s, but, nevertheless, that combo is a great one.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys, and youre right Grn...I do remember now that Amossm did help me earlier...I love your all's sound advice, but 2 things:

1. JDS performance's listing for that C&L is for 1986-1993..mine is a 1994

2. What does everyone think of the pricing and am I missing anything for this type of setup.

I was told to get 30# injectors b/c they cost the same and there is no downside compared to the 24#. Dont know if this is true.:confuse:

Comments on the above?
 

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Call or e-mail jds I think I have seen 94-95 guys using one, I think its out, just jds hasent updated the site. You will need an adj fpr. Either injectos will work, but if you have future plans for a blower, IMO, neither will work with a blower, so i'd just stick w/ 24lb. I'd imagine pricing in FL is MUCH cheaper than here in NY, so i'd say your looking around 500-700 for labor if you provide everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I had an initial labor rate of $600...at the time did NOT include mass air, TB, or drive shaft, so I guess I should be around the 700-$900 range.. Also, that 600 was est time of 12 hours which was $50/hr..Down here that rate is Ok..
Also I prefer Summit Racing to JDS only b/c Summit will match prices, and I would have to pay 6% if I buy from JDS..Same State sales tax:curses:

Anyway, I wish this would get me to 12 sec, but people down here say no way.. 13.2 or so would be good for me, but with Nittos and a torque/conv--shift kit.,,maybe 12's are not out of reach.. Really dont want to spend 5g's on blower if I can get under 13 seconds.
Thanks again Guys.:cool:
 

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MAF and TB isnt gonna up the labor cost. $600 is a pretty good price. I called around here asking and 2 of the mustang shops wanted $1200. Its easy to see how much more $$ stuff is in NY. I still say 70mm. Fyi, summit wont price match jds, they only price match prices from magazizes n which they advertise. Look in mm&mm, I have seen cheap prices for tfs stuff, a little cheaper than jds. I think it was livernois, or something like that, motorsports. Look for it. You will see 12's w/ that combo, but you will have to gear and converter accordingly. 373's are good, but 410's would be beter, but keep the 373's and see what happens. Dont listen to your friends, just get what you want and go to the track and have fun. You will need a set of dr's too.
 

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I was told to get 30# injectors b/c they cost the same and there is no downside compared to the 24#. Dont know if this is true.:confuse:

Comments on the above? [/B][/QUOTE]

Getting the wrong size injectors is like buying the wrong size carb. Just because it's the same price doesn't mean you want it. Like a carb, you want every bit you need to feed to motor at maximum HP, but not more. Too much and your motor may run rich at WOT, which means less power. Also, if the injectors get too large, their minimum pulse width may not be lean enough for a good idle. Just like a carb, bigger isn't always better.

That said, you're kind of on the top end of 24# injectors and the bottom end of 30#. Figuring an 80% maximum injector duty cycle and a typical, street engine BSFC of .5, the math says the 24 lb. injector will support 307 horsepower. Although 80% duty cycle is recommended for street engines, 85% should not overheat them considering the way you'll actually use it, making the 24# injectors support 326 horsepower. Same basis, the 30# injectors will support from 384 HP to 408 HP. All of these horsepower ratings are at the specificed flow pressure for the injector. You can make any of them flow a little more or a little less using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (which you should install). Although I usually stay conservative, I guess I might be swayed towards the 30# injectors for your combo, but you'll need to tune them on the dyno with a wide-band...something you should do anyway to maximize the performance of your combo. Worth it!

A 65 mm throttle body will be "just enough" for your combo (about 550 cfm). A 70 mm throttle body (about 650 cfm) may make it just a tad sluggish right off idle, but it won't be too bad. I'd do the 65mm with the automatic, but the 70 is acceptable.

Guess I'd do 65mm and 24 lb., or 70mm and 30#. Some decisions, you just have to make for yourself after considering all the facts. You won't lose with either combo, properly tuned.

Steve A.
 
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