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Discussion Starter #1
I am a new owner of a 94 5.0 vert, and have some questions and hope you guys can steer me in the right direction. The 5.0 is an auto, has a transo shift kit, u/d pullies, 80mm maf, k&n filtercharger kit, bbk headers, mac h pipe and flowmaster mufflers welded in. I have heard/read that changing the tb is another good mod. I have been looking at intakes and want your opinions on the different intakes out there, if they help on a bolt on, whcih ones are the best bang for the buck and does anything else need t o be swapped if I change the intake-different injectors, computer changes/chip, etc. I see different intkaes on the corral ans would spend around $250-300 on the upper /lower if it helped. Any advice/ intakes you have would be appreciated.

Second-the car leaks oil when it sits in the garage. I have changed it and checked the filter/drain plug. The oil drips from the back of the engine/onto the bottom of the oil pan. I have changed the pcv valve and the screen, and in the process checked the intake manifold gasket(upper) and the valve cover gaskets and can't see/feel any oil. Where else would it come from? The car is a 94 with 113,000 miles on it. Could it be the oil pan gasket and if so how hard is that to change? Can you drop the oil pan enough to repalce it? Any similar experiences/advice on what to check next?
Greg
 

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the oil leak could be from the pan or the rear main seal. i think you can do the pan gasket in the car...but it wont be easy

as for intakes and throttle bodies...the intake is definately an excellent mod...id go with either a TFS street,edelbrock perf,or holley systemax..as for throttle bodies...its a relitavely small gain in ferformance(about 10hp) and they arent cheap...its the last bolt-on id do before getting into the heads and lower end.
 

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I agree with 94Fauxbra on the oil leak. But, with an AODE i'd lean towards the rear main. And that is a pain to change. The first mod i'd do to the car is slap a trans cooler on it. With 112,000 on it, you need to keep the trans cool to ensure a long life...
If you are looking for a good stock replacement intake, look at the Typhoon. It's a nice piece and grows with you engine progect. I think Anderson Ford Motorsports sells it.
I'd also put 3.73 in the rear to help wake it up.
Welcome to the club!!
 

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I agree with the above posts about the rear main seal, but don't rule out the oil pan gasket, as I have had both changed because the both have leaked with 116k miles on my Cobra.
Don't rule out the Cobra intake.
If you don't have gears get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help, my plan once it warms up a little is to clean the back of the engine and see where the leak is coming from. How hard was it to change the oil pan gasket, did you do it witht the engine in the car? It looks like it could be done with another pair of hands.I see alot of discussion about intakes, do you guys like the cobra/explorer intakes? Are there any differences between them? Knowof anyone selling theirs?
Greg
 

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On my Cobra I had a shop do the oil pan gasket. Mustangs have a double hump oil pan and the motor needs to be raised. Some one on here, cannot remember the user name, has done it and said it could be done with out raising the engine. Da a search on oil pan. Get the 1 piece if you need it done, much better.
 

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first things first..find out whats leaking...get under the car and clean off the oil pan then start the car and watch for leaks...if its the pan try tightening the bolts first... if that doesnt work a lil silicone may do the trick....sure beats pulling the motor. if its the rear main seal ... your gonna have to pull the tranny and flywheel...the rear main is a one piece round metal seal that just slides over the back of the crank and you tap it into place(its pretty easy to do in the car)... man if its the pan id just clean it off real good and silicone the hell out of it....that silicone that comes in the cheese whiz can is the best, its called the "Right Stuff" i think
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I talked with Randy Stinchcomb today at Universal Ford, he told me that Permatex makes a spray sealer tht would work/easier than pulling the motor.
On a seperate issue, it looks like the alum d/s I just put in is leaking from the yoke. Now what???
Greg
 

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change the rear seal in the tranny.....takes like 45 seconds.....just jack the back end way up to keep alot of fluid from spilling out
 

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Check the back of the intake. That leaks a lot on 5.0s if they were installed incorrectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To get the main seal out I just pull the d/s and I will see it? Is this a part that I can get at advance or is it a dealer part?
Greg
 

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im almost positive if you pull the D/S you can see the seal...otherwise how would you change it(from the inside would be impossible) you should be able to find the seal at any Parts store....pop the old one out with a screwdriver and tap the new one in (lay a block of wood flat across the backside of the new seal as you tap it in so it goes in str8)
 

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No....

You might be able to get it out by just unbolting the bellhousing and torque converter (I'm not sure how you would pry it out though).

If you weren't able to do it that way you would need to drop the H-pipe, then driveshaft, brace, and bellhousing. The rear main seal is actually on the back part of the engine (if that makes sense.).

Grab a Haynes or other manual to see what we're talking about.

If you're doing it yourself, I'd highly recommend a tranny jack from Harbort Freight. I think you can get them on sale for around $50 and totally worth it.

The jack will support your brace, will you take out the bolts, support the AOD-E while you uninstall, and install. Extremely useful for a do-it-yourself job.

The only hard part about it will be if you run into stubborn bolts. Check out Haynes for methods of removing the rear main seal.

BUT Before you do any of this, find out where its leaking. I had both, oil pan and rear main seal. Oil pan just needed some tightening and it was fine.

Later, rear main seal needed to be replaced, no big deal either. Like I said, not too bad of a job if you have a tranny jack and don't run into any "stubborn bolts", like the starter bolts = can be hard to get to the top bolt and if its hard, no way to get real good leverage.
 

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yes...

i was refering to the secondary issue of the leaking driveshaft yoke..i already addressed the rear main seal issue....sorry bout the confusion
 
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