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Discussion Starter #1
my stock self adjusting clutch quadrant is gone....

I bought a new one at a ford dealer, stock replacement.

the stock are two piece...can just the gears be taken off the new one adn installed?

or should I just spend the extra dollars and buy one with a firewall adjusting kit and a one piece aluminum quadrant?

suggestions on what people have done...

thanks
Jason
 

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Gonnabuild said:
my stock self adjusting clutch quadrant is gone....
Mine went north for the summer a couple of weeks ago, too. The 88. Decided on a UPR quad/cable. I don't need the firewall adjuster for the 88 is the wife's daily driver.
 

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i fixed it without changing... i managed to make it un adjustable now, with a rigged up job.. but it works better than ever..

so I'm stickin with it till it breaks again

jason
 

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I just replaced mine a year and change ago with the Summit manual-adjust unit. Works wonderfully, and feels a bit better too -- gives a little more pedal feedback.

Getting the quadrant installed is awkward because of position, but is do-able. I seem to remember the only real pain in the butt being getting the little pin that holds it on back in place right.

Adjusting the clutch is fairly easy, particularly if you're already going to be under the car anyway. Remove the clutch fork cover -- it's held on by one hex head screw and a little built-in spring clip. Use an open-end wrench to hold the adjusting nut and a deep-well socket to back off the lock nut. The best way I've found to get it properly adjusted is to press solidly forward on the fork with one hand (make sure you do this, because you'll kill your throwout bearing if you don't have a proper preload on it), then turn the adjusting nut in to tauten the cable. Give it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn extra once you pass the point where the nut's finger tight, then tighten the locknut back up, replace the cover, and you're good to go.

If it feels like the clutch is grabbing *wayyyyy* too high, then you've got the cable in too tight. Too loose, and it'll grab right on the floor, plus you'll soon start to hear a ticking noise from under the car if you're in neutral with the clutch out -- this is your throwout bearing begging for its life. It's a self-centering type, and without about 10-20lb of preload, it won't center properly and it'll fry itself. I found this the hard way before I put in the manual adjust linkage -- the reason for the replacement was a self-adjust spring that had lost tension and wasn't pre-loading the bearing right. :D

Adjustment intervals will vary, but I found it needed to be tightened once at 3-6k miles after the cable stretched out a bit, then loosened just a bit every 10-20k miles to account for clutch wear.

Chuck
 
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