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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to buy a tubular k-member and I'm considering the QA1. Tell me your experience with them. What are the downfalls, short comings, or problems to expect? This is for my 91 notch 408w. Will the motor height change, I plan on re-using the energy suspension mounts I currently have on my stock k-member. How is motor location effected, is/can motor moved back any? is it true the front wheels are moved forward an inch, does this cause problems?
 

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There are over 400 threads about QA1 if you spend some time on the search function, in case not all 400+ people who've responded actually see this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I sifted through alot of them, majority are really old threads. Hoped to get feedback from more recent installers/users. Didn't find definitive answers to the questions I asked.
Thanks, you've been helpful.
 

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I have a QA1 k member in my car with the qa1 a arms and coilovers and i love it. mine did set the motor back just a touch, and it does set the wheels forward (barely) but with street tires or skinny's you can't really tell.

ive used the k member as my jack point many times and it had no negative effects. the sucker is sturdy! but you can't use the a arms as a jackpoint.... it will bend them. thats the only failure ive had but it was my fault... beyond that, i street drive the car and track it as well.

just my .02
 

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I'm looking to buy a tubular k-member and I'm considering the QA1.
OK -- here's an important question to answer: WHY do you want to install an aftermarket K-member?

Weight reduction?
Improved suspension geometry?
Less weight?
Improved access to the starter and other engine bits?
'Cause it looks K3W3L!

Answer that and we'll be able to help you a lot more than "I have one and I love it" answers.
 
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I have one for weight reduction, header clearance, and to clean up the engine bay. It does a good job of all three.
I guess as long as the engine doesn't fall out and the wheels stay pointed in the right direction over time, that's OK.

I chose the Griggs K-member for weight reduction and improved front-end geometry. This made a HUGE difference in the car's handling.
 

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I have one of their kits in my 95. I'm not a big fan of it personally, but it is my fault not QA1. I got it for a steal, but didn't do my research before I purchased. So until I installed it I didn't know it widened the front track. Now I can't get it aligned properly, I've been to 5 different shops and nothing.

It is quite a bit lighter and there is a ton of room now. Overall I think it's built very well, and it fit excellent. When I spoke with them about possible fixes for it I was told: Have a competant machine shop cut the a-arms down by 3/4" on each side and have it re-welded. I'm not sure if I will go this far with it or just replace it.

I don't know if it's still like this or not, but it's something to keep in mind before ordering.
 

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...So until I installed it I didn't know it widened the front track. Now I can't get it aligned properly, I've been to 5 different shops and nothing.
Let me guess -- too much negative camber and too much toe-in?

I spoke with them about possible fixes for it I was told: Have a competant machine shop cut the a-arms down by 3/4" on each side and have it re-welded. I'm not sure if I will go this far with it or just replace it.
nah -- slot the inner fender to allow the strut mount plates to move farther OUTWARD (away from the vehicle centerline.) this will improve the camber issue. You can also slot one of the strut mount holes (where the spindle bolts to the strut,) to let the spindle rotate AWAY from the strut a bit.

For the toe issue, you can get a bumpsteer kit from Maximum Motorsports that is set up for wider than factory combos.

My car is a LOT wider than the factory (wide K-member plus SN95 A-arms.)
 

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Which k-member is said to push the front wheels out past the fenders? Ive seen this on a few Fox cars at the track and never really cared for how they looked.
 

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You got it.

Thanks for the info.

I'll probably just go this route once I finish my fox. This will save me some headaches and money.

Let me guess -- too much negative camber and too much toe-in?

nah -- slot the inner fender to allow the strut mount plates to move farther OUTWARD (away from the vehicle centerline.) this will improve the camber issue. You can also slot one of the strut mount holes (where the spindle bolts to the strut,) to let the spindle rotate AWAY from the strut a bit.

For the toe issue, you can get a bumpsteer kit from Maximum Motorsports that is set up for wider than factory combos.

My car is a LOT wider than the factory (wide K-member plus SN95 A-arms.)
 

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funny you mention the A arm problem. When I was using the tubular SN95 arms, I had wayy too much toe in even with my c/c plates pushed all the way outboard.

ended up getting a set of foxbody A arms (3/4 of a inch shorter as a matter of fact) and after that, everything lined up perfectly. My suspension is straight as an arrow and hasn't had any problems since. With the sn95 arms, i was over 2 degrees "in" towards the top. Really ruined a good set of tires.:barf:
 

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I have used one with stock springs/a-arms.You must grind off the motor mount locating tabs and the front track is out and the wheels set forward a very noticeable amount.I liked it except for the wheels not being centered in the wheel well,looked stupid.
 

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Lets just say this.... IF i was going to do this all over again, I would have gone with the AJE K member instead of the QA1, but its not a bad K member. I do like it better than the UPR K member, because the qa1 is mild steel and can be welded on, whereas the upr piece is chromoly and cannot be welded on....

If i didn't have so much time/effort into the qa1 K member, i would go ahead and get the AJE piece instead. then again, im running solid motor mounts so it wouldn't bother me.
 

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If the UPR k-member is even a thought to you. Then jack your car up, stick your head under a tire and release the jack. It is a total piece of junk (some swear by them, most of us swear at them). I have found the best thing to do with my UPR k-member is to let my dogs piss on it because that is all it seems good for, and my dogs really like it in the back yard. It didn't fit right onto the car and the engine would not sit flat on both sides. Engine was set in without the tranny so I know that was not the issue. I got what I paid for though. UPR made me a "killer deal" years ago at Norwalk and when I got home and tried to install it, I did want to kill somebody. Maximum Motorsports make a pretty good k-member too.
 

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funny you mention the A arm problem. When I was using the tubular SN95 arms, I had wayy too much toe in even with my c/c plates pushed all the way outboard.

ended up getting a set of foxbody A arms (3/4 of a inch shorter as a matter of fact) and after that, everything lined up perfectly. My suspension is straight as an arrow and hasn't had any problems since. With the sn95 arms, i was over 2 degrees "in" towards the top. Really ruined a good set of tires.:barf:
I ruined a pair myself. What fox arms are you running? Still QA1 or something else? When it came time to put one in the fox I went with a D&D, and everything looks top notch on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Feel free to talk amongst yourselves, I'm more than likely going AJE or Team-Z. Thanks for the input on the QA1 and others.
 

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I have a qa1 kit in my fox (k member, a-arms, coilovers). I'm happy with it. It has it's downfalls on bumps and such (look where I live), but I feel it's worth it. As for fitment, I had no problems. My wheels went foward 3/4" and out something like 1/4". I run 245/40/17s without a problem.

It's the only tubular k I've ever installed/driven alot, so I don't have much to compare it to. But I can say I hear nothing but good stuff about the team z stuff.
 
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