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I saw that MSD makes a relay block, the description says that it can handle PWM?


Please forgive my innocence on this subject. I'm just looking into this. Thanks
 

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In purchased form, it will not take input from an outside sensor. It generates the PWM signal on manually commanding a duty cycle with the rotary knob.

Would be interesting to see someone build a controller like this that would take an input from an ECT sensor. I know for the crowd here running standalone ECU's it's not a concern, but i've had a number of folks message me regarding controlling these controllers without such a system. Short of making an arduino setup for it, I have not found a solution.

Typically such units are an all-in-one device like DCC but they are expensive. I would imagine the circuitry needed to make a small controller for an OEM PWM module would be simpler, operate on low-current and probably be very reliable. You really just need the ECT input, and maybe a WOT trigger (to turn fan off) and an AC on trigger. The arduino can do this, but it's a matter of coding.

I've actually been meaning to do this. I'm running my fan on the manual controller for now as my ECU changeover is probably going to happen next winter so i don't have to rush it. I've been wanting to sit down and build an arduino setup for this. I just lack time
 

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I saw that MSD makes a relay block, the description says that it can handle PWM?


Please forgive my innocence on this subject. I'm just looking into this. Thanks
Pricey, but not clear on how it works. Looks like it just takes a PWN signal to turn the relay on/off. I imagine there is no control in terns of fan speed other than on/off.

I think the bigger issue for most is generating the PWM signal that is appropriate for the various OEM PWM modules out there. For $200 you can buy a handful of used OEM controllers (or even 2 brand new Infiniti controllers) but the main problem is the signal to the controller. Again, since this is the Holley ECU forum that's not a problem but I think fan controllers are something the larger Mustang modding community would like to start to use even without aftermarket ECU
 

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That MSD one can be used for variable speed fans/pumps I believe. But I wouldn’t stick an radiator fan load on it by any means.
 
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Since there isn't a simple test controller for PWM- (it seems), is there any other way to test the 2 units I have for functionality? I'd just like to confirm they both work.
Voltage test. As you vary the duty cycle the voltage will change from source to 0.

So for PWM-, you would put one lead on the positive voltage into the controller and the Neg on pwm-

for pwm+, test lead on the pwm output and Neg to the controller ground.

At 0% you will have no voltage, and as you scale up to 100% the voltage will rise to 12v
 

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Don't get an aftermarket "oem-style" module. They don't have a great reputation. You'll want an actual OEM module, even if used. I would actually recommend a different OEM fan controller which is cheaper and more readily available. The one you link is good for 60amps, but you don't need that as these are soft-start fan controllers.

This is how I did mine with Megasquirt. I'd imagine the Holley PWM output is similar. I created a table based on coolant temp to control the PWM output signal. When i go over a certain TPS voltage (indicating WOT), it triggers a relay which grounds the PWM wire to the relay, which shuts the fan off. I have a similar relay for the AC trigger.

I used an Infiniti Q50 fan controller i got for $15 (brand new they are around $75) but this style controller came on many different cars. The controller is PMW+, so you need to verify if your ECU can generate that signal as opposed to the more common PWM-. If not, there are other fan modules to choose from.

SIngle wire PWM control. 250hz. Anything below 20% duty cycle keeps the fan off. 20-100% ramps from low to full power. it's soft-start, so the MAX load the contour fan will draw is around 25 amps based on my testing. I'm using a 40A fuse, and 10ga wiring (14ga for the short leads to the fans)

I actually bought two of these modules for $15 each off ebay and keep a spare in the glovebox.

I had a bunch of questions so i made this vid
Hi @Mustang5L5 You mention that you can make this controller work with PWM- (like the Holley Terminator X) one needs to invert the duty cycle where 100% is off. Did you prove this to work and if so, can you please elaborate? Is it literally building the table to do the opposite? Like 5% is at higher temp and 95% is at a lower temp? I'm debating between this controller and the really pricey Fusion/C5 Corvette controller that has the harness included.

Thanks!
 

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Hi @Mustang5L5 You mention that you can make this controller work with PWM- (like the Holley Terminator X) one needs to invert the duty cycle where 100% is off. Did you prove this to work and if so, can you please elaborate? Is it literally building the table to do the opposite? Like 5% is at higher temp and 95% is at a lower temp? I'm debating between this controller and the really pricey Fusion/C5 Corvette controller that has the harness included.

Thanks!
Yes. See post #62. I think a few guys on here are running it that way.
 

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Yes. See post #62. I think a few guys on here are running it that way.

My Apologies, thought I read through this entire post and missed a whole page. Thanks for guiding me to the answer, looks like that's a winner!

If you wouldn't mind, @Mustang5L5 I have a follow-up question
Is there any perceived harm in having the ECU put out 100% duty cycle all the time like that in the long run?
 
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Is there any perceived harm in having the ECU put out 100% duty cycle all the time like that in the long run?
The PWM signal is not meant to be a high current signal. There's virtually no current when it's on. Having 100% duty cycle on a ground-sink type PWM signal (PWM-) is essentially the same as a grounding out a circuit with milliamps of current. It should not damage anything.
 

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Would a painless wiring F5 dual fan controller work for you guys. I remember it being able to ramp fan speed from 50% to 100%.
I had one on my mustang a couple of years ago, but took it off once I got a stand-alone system that controls the fans.
 

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In preparation for adding AC to my car, I upgraded my cooling system from unknown brand 24.5" x 17" core aluminum radiator with two 1" cores and Black Tragic fan to a 26.2" x 19" core with a 2010 Fusion Fan.
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Chose the radiator over other 31" x 19" options because the tanks were slanted at the bottom eliminating the need to massage the core support. I had the cap repositioned on a 45 as the hood was not going to close with it on top of the tank. Also had the top neck angle toward the engine to clear the turbo inlet but shouldn't be necessary on all setups.

Fan covers the core nicely and provides better coverage than a Contour fan would.
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The bottom neck is on an angle as delivered and in hindsight, I should have had it straightened when the other work was done. I used an SN95 lower radiator hose as the diameter is larger than a Foxbody. Not sure what upper radiator hose I'm using as it came on the car when I bought it. Used some rivets and strips of sheet aluminum to fill in some gaps around the edges. Had to use some epoxy to seal other areas. Finished off the shroud with weather stripping from Lowes.

For fan control, I tried to use the PWM Mazda unit that I had on my original fan but it was not happy running these fans. It would surge and the fan speed oscillated. Not a lot of info out there on the Fusion controller but I figured out what works. Using PWM +, 5% DC is 100% on and 95% is off. Used 140 Hz but other frequencies gave the same results as long as it was similar to this setting. Built a simple table for now but will adjust it as I collect data.

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This new setup crushes the old one. Old version was ok with the 302 but struggled with the 363 it has now and never would have supported AC. With the previous cooling system, it was slow to cool the car down after beating on it. Now it doesn't get as hot and rapidly cools it down at idle. Using a 180 thermostat, it would cruise around at 200-220 in 100+ degree weather running at 70 mph. Now, it runs < 190 at all times. The larger radiator seals the gaps around it better so I'm getting more air flow across it at highway speeds.

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That fan looks amazing. How much did you need to cut up the shroud? My core measures 26x19. Do you have a part number for the fan?
 

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I only cut off the ears off used in the stock mounting and clearanced for the bottom neck. If the outlet was straight instead of angled, it wouldn't need that mod. Biggest work was filling in the gaps so it wasn't pulling in air around the sides.

Typo on the year fan. It was a 2010 Fusion fan. Same one in the MKZ. Years are 2010-2012 with 3.5L. Part # is in the fan picture at the bottom, right of the piece of radiator hose I stuck in there to cover a hole. If you can't zoom in, I can get the part number.

Used Spal connector kit 30130628 for wiring. Doesn't require a relay. Ford uses an 80 amp fuse but I'm using a 60. It has soft start so no amp spike. Total draw at full blast is 37 amps.

Fixed the year of the fan in the earlier post and here is the part #:
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Saw a post on the Turbo Foxbody FB group about the Challenger brushless fans. Looks like they fit. They are used on the police cars as an upgraded option.
I believe I have the Mark VIII equivalent Dorman on mine now but am not comfortable how close it is to my water pump (even after I trimmed it.)

This might be a good upgrade with one of those PWM modules.

Dorman PN: 620-039XD
Amazon
 
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