Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had UD Pullies installed today. Definately notice a difference. Love the feel. However, shortly after, my Service Engine Soon light came on and started blinking. What gives? :mad: I didn't think that mod would trigger the SES. :confused:

Anyone have any ideas? I'm gonna go disconnect the battery right now and reset the computer and see if the SES will come back. Love to hear if any of you have had this issue and what your thoughts might be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
827 Posts
Mine did the same...reset the comp and life will be great.

Have fun.
~Darren
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Long story short, I ran into a buddy of mine who had a tool to read my computer codes. It was a misfire on the #3 and #6 cyl. The tool wiped it clean and haven't seen an issue with it yet.

Whew! Maybe I need to look at the spark gap again. :evil:

Thanks for the reply Silver!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,192 Posts
make sure the crank bolt is tightened enough
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
I had the same problem with mine. A couple of times it misfired on startup, and man was that painful. It spit and sputtered for a good twenty to thirty seconds. Nasty unspent fuel. Guess what. No more U/D pullies on this Steed! Took 'em off, and haven't had a problem since!

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, here is what has been done. I've cleared the codes with a OBD2 tool that told me the problem. Light came back on. Took the car back to where I had the work done and they looked at it and we all agreed everything appears fine. I pulled some of the plugs and they look fine too. Put all back together and disconnected the battery. That cleared the codes again. Two starts later, and they are back again. I'm not sure it I'm getting the same cyl. readings, but I'll guess it is the same problem. I think I'll be bringing the car back there on Monday and have them take the harmonic off and then retorque it down. If that doesn't work, I don't know where to go from there other than to have those coil packs looked at.

I think that is all I can do. :barf:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
If you have the cold packs looked at post those results I am fighting a pain in the a$$ intermittent misfire on 2 cylinders I ran it on the computer for 1 hour and it missed 16 times on and off and the car runs perfect and you cant even tell it is misfiring thinking of changing packs to screamin demon anyway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like the exact same thing I am experiencing. The only time I feel it is taching 3K rpms. Then it feels like when your cruise control turns on and off.

If I correct the problem, I'll be sure to post it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
Did these problems start right after you installed the pullies? If so, it sounds like that's your problem, not your coil packs. Re-install your OEM pullies and if the problem goes away, you should just leave the underdrives off. In my opinion, they're just not worth the aggrivation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Check your crank position sensor. It may have gotten disturbed during the install. Pulleys by themselves can't cause a MIL. There has to be a sensor or actuator making the EEC unhappy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
Oh I beg to differ. These underdrive pullies can cause misfires. Regardless of their 'SFI' certs, they do not meet factory specs. My underdrive crank damper (Steeda) threw my engine so far out of whack, that it actually knocked and smoked, so bad that I thought it rod-knock.
Some cars just have problems with the underdrive pullies. Maybe it has something to do with certain engines being more balanced than others.
I got rid of mine and the problem went away. I sold them, and the fellow who purchased them has had no complaints. So I guess it just depends on the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
That is just the thing that has me down right now. I know of people who have put them in and haven't had a problem. I put them in and now I have an issue. Very disapointed. I don't think this is a Ford issue or a pulley manufacturer issue but like you said, some cars just have an issue with them. :barf:

I've looked at the plugs and I don't see any issue with them. They are gapped to spec's and I really doubt I have a coil issue. So, I'm gonna have the guy clean the sensor, retorque the pullies, and see if that does it. If not, off they come.

fingers crossed!! :evil:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
366 Posts
Every instance we have seen of 4.6L underdrive pulleys causing a misfire code has been traced to the pulley not being fully seated on the crankshaft. The snout of the crank pulley seats against the ignition pulsator ring (crank trigger wheel) inside the front cover. Basically the trigger wheel and the cam drive sprocket are sandwiched between a shoulder on the crankshaft and the balancer/crankshaft pulley. If the pulley is not pulled onto the crankshaft all the way during installation, the trigger wheel and sprocket will "rattle" and wiggle. This can cause a misfire. Sometimes this occurs when the installer mistakenly finishes the installation process with the starter bolt provided in the kit. Sometimes it is the result of the new crank pulley being a little bit "tight" on the crankshaft. Either way, the fix is to re-torque the Ford crankshaft bolt to factory specs. If the bolt has been re-used more than twice, we recommend starting over with a new one from the Ford dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
What you describe may be the cause in this instance. In my case, not so. The install was to spec. My brother is a Master machanic, who ownes his own shop (12 bays), and I am a powertrain designer at a Ford tier 1 design shop. Between the two of us, I am pretty sure we got it right. It's not rocket science.
Anyhow, my problem was intermittent. It would do it maybe once in every 30-40 starts. It would last for 20-30 seconds, and then it was fine.
What are your opinions on what happened in my case?

Thanks techguy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Check that they did not use the Steeda bolt that came with the kit to torque the balancer on with and that they used the original Ford bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Pullies aren't the only things that'll trip the SES light. The Steeda T/A will do the same thing. I've got my T/A after they first came out a couple years ago. If the engine ran at a constant rpm over 3k for too long then my SES light will go off. I retorqued everything and did everything Steeda recommended at the time. Their best guess was that it must not be perfectly balanced and that the mod motor is very sensitive. I even went back to Houston Performance and they checked it. I'm not ripping Steeda for this, cause I like their products. I guess I have one of those engines that doesn't like anything bolted to the crank. I do believe it has something to do with balance and wobble, how else would it trip the SES?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks techguy. I've had a hard time convincing two mechanics that there is a correlation between this misfire and the fact I just put on the pullies. The common theme I'm hearing is that I would not keep getting the same cyl. logging the misfire. They feel that it should be random.

So, I've given in and I'm gonna bring it to a Ford dealer and see what they can find. I've still got my fingers crossed.

Outside of the misfire I've had so far, I LOVE the power gain of these pullies!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Like techguy said get the new bolt and use Ford spec.
There was a TSB from Ford on this aftemarket pulley issue
14520
4.6L 4V Pulley Instructions
Some 1996-2001 Mustang owners, for engine performance purposes, are adding a special front drive pulley kit to reduce front accessory drive speeds. When removing and replacing the crank pulley, if the large bolt used to hold the crank pulley undertorqued, the keyway will shear and cause major engine damage. The resulting engine damage is not warrantable. If the crankshaft pulley bolt is removed it should be replaced as it is a torque to yield bolt. The installation of the crankshaft pulley requires that a specific torque operation be adhered to. The crankshaft pulley bolt must be installed using these 4 steps: 1) Torque to 75 lbs/ft 2) Back out one turn 3) torque to 45 lb?ft 4) continue to tighten and additional 90 degrees.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
1) Torque to 75 lbs/ft 2) Back out one turn 3) torque to 45 lb?ft 4) continue to tighten and additional 90 degrees.
this makes sense some what...can anyone elaborate on this? I am installing UD pulleys here soon and want to do this correctly the first time. thx

Chad
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top