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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got the car running this weekend and I have the fan wired up per Smithmontes instr. and the switch is two way: fan on and auto (temp switch). The problem is two things:

1) when the car is hot, fan running and I shut it off for a minute, when I go to restart it the fan wants to turn on (key in the on pos.) even before I hit cranking pos. and NE1 who has this fan knows it takes alot of power to start it, let alone try to start the car at the same time.

Possible answer: wire in three way w/off pos., so I can turn fan off to restart the car and then put it back on auto.

2) When I shut car off, fan goes off, too much power to keep it running I guess (probably drain batt. in a few min.)? What happens is, when it is hot and I shut it off, it overflows into and out of the overflow tank and goes all over the ground.

Possible answer: wire so that it stays on till it cools (temp switch wired to constant power?), like stock style elect. fans, but risking dead battery?

I have 130 amp. alt. and the factory gauge reads about halfway 210(?) I thought this fan would keep it cooler, my old stock fan kept it cooler than this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have the same 180 deg temp switch that smithmontes instr. said to use. I also have a 180 T-stat in there. Are they fighting each other or something else not good? Should I put the stock 192 deg. back in?
 

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I haven't been on the Smithmontes website in a while. What do you have your "key on" power coming from. You said when you turn the key the fan turns on, that's fine. But, if you hook the "key on" power to something that shuts off while engine is cranking, like the windshield wiper circuit, the fan should turn off while cranking, but turn on while in the run position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats a great idea, thanks. I had my buddies do most of the wiring, I don't know that much about elect. Well, that solves one problem, now how about #2? NE1?
 

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Couple things on the temp issue, Yes the 180 stat will ensure the water in the engine maintains 180. Where you have the fan controller will decide what the water temp in the radiator gets to.

Second, what is your coolant to water ratio? Ethylin Glycol doesnt cool, summer time anywhere you dont eneed more than 20% coolant. Water is the medium transfureing heat.

Winter up in your neighborhood, probably want to get close to 40%. That 50/50 stuff is for 60 below zero.

Radiator type, as well as the water you have used regularly will dictate a lot on performance. In AZ our water is sooo hard that tap water in a radiator will kill one in less than 5 years.
 

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The overflow bottle is to store coolant. As the coolant temperature goes up and the coolant expands, the radiator cap releases some coolant into the overflow, then as the temperature goes back down, the cap slowly draws back in the coolant into the radiator. There are lines on the coolant resevoir. If you fill it past the line, the rad. cap will release coolant into the overflow bottle thus overfilling the bottle. The coolant could be heating up more when you shut off the motor, then causing your problem. Keeping the fan running COULD fix the problem, but there is a different problem because you shouldn't have to do that. How is your coolant/water mix? If the water is boiling, it will be released through the cap. Are you sure your gauge is correct, because that sounds like a typical overheating condition. Is there anything blocking airflow, plastic bag, newspaper, etc.? How old is your thermostat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, the car will never be driven in the winter, so does that mean that I should use water only? The t-stat switch is a 180 deg, but I have the 192 stocker in my tool box. The t-stat is old, but i'm sure still works. The first time it (RAD) overheated after I shut the car off and it filled up the overflow and then sucked it back in, it did overfill onto the ground first though. I did spray the rad lightly with black paint and I installed a big trans cooler (B&M supercooler). The fan switch is mounted in the rad about 3" below the cap. I'm not sure on the mix, I geuss i'll have to get one of those measuring things with the balls in it. My temp gauge is stock and it moves, so i'm sure it works, but it's probably not accurate. When I first took it for a ride around the block the fan came on and it overheated like I said earlier, but we figured it out, we had the fan wired backwards (the gauge at that time was almost all the way up). I thought we fixed that because the gauge now reads only halfway, but it still does it. I'll try the mixture thing, should I go straight water or maybe 20% to prevent rust? Should I get a new 192 t-stat or new 180? I never tried the Redline water wetter stuff because I never needed it before, like I said I thought the fan would keep it cooler than the stocker. My rad is the original three core, but it flows good and I never had a problem with it before. Thanks for the ideas.
 

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I have mine wired up kinda the same way. At first i wired in a 3-way switch with an ON-OFF-AUTO command with a temp switch. I didn't have the temp switch yet so i was running it on manual ON

After a while, i decided to leave it that way and rewired it to run constantly and have a toggle to shut it off if i need to.

My fan turns on a split second before i start the car. But when i'm cranking, it shuts off (as all accessories do). SOmetimes i switch to OFF before i do it but i haven't really been religious about it. Havent had a problem. In fact, i use it now as a test to see if the fan is working. I turn the key to ON, listen for the fan, then crank the car.


AS for #2, the fan doesn't really have much to do with that. My fan goes off as soon as you shut the car off. I wouldn't want it to run anyway. The stock fan would do the same. That has something to do with the coolant system itself. Maybe faulty pressure cap?
 

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I'm wanting a simpler setup on mine, and was wondering if any electronics guys might be able to help out. I have the same issues described above, and I think as far as I'm concerned, a simple timer would do the trick for me. I'd like to have the relay wait 10-30 seconds before energizing, then wait another 10-30 seconds after loosing power before it releases. Seems like you might could do this with just resistors and capacitors, but maybe not. Any electronics geeks out there???
 
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