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Discussion Starter #1
The driver side window motor will not disengage when the window reaches the top unless I take my finger off the switch(it's suppose to cut off automatically when it reaches the top). When rolling down using the "one touch" the motor will not disengage unless I touch the "up" button. The passenger side doesn't have a one touch relay, and it works fine, the motor disengages even if you continue to hold the button in the up or down position once the window reaches the top or bottom.
 

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my95.0l said:
The driver side window motor will not disengage when the window reaches the top unless I take my finger off the switch(it's suppose to cut off automatically when it reaches the top). When rolling down using the "one touch" the motor will not disengage unless I touch the "up" button. The passenger side doesn't have a one touch relay, and it works fine, the motor disengages even if you continue to hold the button in the up or down position once the window reaches the top or bottom.
OK, what do you mean it "disengages" when it gets to the top? The passenger side certainly should not just "disengage" once it gets to the top. Hold your passenger window switch in the up position when the window reaches the top, and look at your voltage gauge, it will drop. If you hold it long enough, it will trip a circuit breaker, and won't work for a few seconds. The driver's side "one touch" down button is the only one that shut's off power to the motor when it feels a decent amount of resistance. (Neither the switches, nor the motors know where the "all the way up" or "all the way down" position is for the windows are.

Anyway, to me it sounds like you are talking about the motor making a loud clicking/popping noise when the window reaches the top or bottom of the track. Is this the case? If so, it's the bushings inside of the window motor, and is very fixable. There is the right way, and the wrong way. Both ways work, but the right way is like $25.00, and the wrong way is like $2.00.

Please give us a better discription of your problem, like noises it is making, if it's making any.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Re: Problem with my driver's side power window, any experts?

bottlefed90GT said:
OK, what do you mean it "disengages" when it gets to the top? The passenger side certainly should not just "disengage" once it gets to the top. Hold your passenger window switch in the up position when the window reaches the top, and look at your voltage gauge, it will drop. If you hold it long enough, it will trip a circuit breaker, and won't work for a few seconds. The driver's side "one touch" down button is the only one that shut's off power to the motor when it feels a decent amount of resistance. (Neither the switches, nor the motors know where the "all the way up" or "all the way down" position is for the windows are.

Anyway, to me it sounds like you are talking about the motor making a loud clicking/popping noise when the window reaches the top or bottom of the track. Is this the case? If so, it's the bushings inside of the window motor, and is very fixable. There is the right way, and the wrong way. Both ways work, but the right way is like $25.00, and the wrong way is like $2.00.

Please give us a better discription of your problem, like noises it is making, if it's making any.

Frank
By disengage I mean shut off. YES YES YES it is making a loud clicking/popping noise when the window reaches the top & bottom of the track. I could feel the motor continuing to run when it does this, therefore I thought it wasn't shutting off (disengaging). PLEASE tell me the RIGHT way to fix it.

:joy: :joy: :joy: :joy:
 

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This is for a 1995 Stang right? Have you ever taken the door panel off?

Before having you go out and buy the necessary bushings to fix the motor, make sure that THAT is the problem. Basically, take the motor out and hold the gear with a pair of pliers, and push the up or down button on the window switch. If you can hold that gear, but the motor inside is turning, more than likely the bushings are bad. Also, the window can move freely with the window motor out, so you don't really want to leave it out and go driving around, and the parts can only be found at a dealership. Here's a link with more info.

LOOK HERE for a good thread about this. I wrote up step by step instructions to rebuilding the window motor near the end of the thread.

Frank
 

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I forgot to mention in the instructions that you must remove the door panel and possibly the speaker to gain access to the motor, but the bolts are on the front.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yes, the panel is off & it is a 1995 Stang.
Bottlefed, this is what I've tried so far:
I've swapped out the switch with the one for the pass. side (the 4 pronged switch) & it did the same thing. I also swapped the one touch relay with no luck. I checked every inch of wire from the switch, to the relay, & to the motor looking for a loose or open connection, still no luck.

Just out of curiosity, what is the $2 wrong way to fix this??
 

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Instead of replacing the bushings with bushings, you replace the bushings with the right size nuts to fit snug in there. Many people have done it with success, it's just not what the factory did, so I don't usually recommend it. You do everything the same way as in the link I posted above, except use the nuts instead of the bushings.

Stop tracing wires and swapping switches and relays, your problem is mechanical, not electrical. This is a VERY common problem with Ford window motors.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate the time you took to explain this to me. I will call Ford (my best bud is the parts manager) :) tomorrow and ask about this kit. Can I use the part #
DOAZ-62234A24-B for my 95? I'm very picky about my car, as I'm sure you are, and this has been driving me crazy!! I'll let you know how everything turns out.
Thanks again.


Would you happen to know the nut size for the cheaper fix?
 

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The kit you would buy from Ford is for like an '88 Mustang. The only useable parts are the 3 bushings and the grease. The rest fits the '88 Stangs, but they don't make a rebuild kit for your year Stang. I don't know the nut sizes off the top of my head, but if/when I find them, I'll let you know.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Frank, I talked to my bud @ Ford, he told me there's an aftermarket company that sells just the bushings for approx. $4
I'm going to his house tomorrow to pick them up. I'll get the company name & part # & then post the info.

James
 
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