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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently I have been having problems getting into 1st gear from a a dead stop or 5mph roll. I also have trouble getting into reverse. I have had the Steeda Tri-ax for over 2years. Do I need to regrease it, the grease that is there now is looking really crusty but Im not sure if it even needs changed at all.

Come to think of it, also from a stop I have problems puting it into any gear with my foot on the clutch. It doesnt act the same while driving, it just seems that I have sticky gears every other stop light. Anyone have any ideas?


**FYI: I upgraded to a 2000 T-45 about a year ago and I have been using Redline synthetic tranny fluid since.
 

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I have the same problem with my 2000 GT. At a stop it won't easily go into 1st. I have to depress the clutch pedal again. I don't know if it's me or the tranny. I hope it's me......:confused: I just had the clutch replaced with a McCleod unit and I can't remember if I had this problem with the factory clutch. Plus my TOB is squeeking again......:mad:
 

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I have the same problem with my Tri-ax in my 96 GT. Tranny and clutch are stock. Is the short throw F-ing up the syncros?
 

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My '00 GT with the stock shifter does the same thing, I usually just put it into fourth or fifth for a second and then move into first or reverse. It seems like a really common problem. My GT only has 23,000 miles on it, so I don't think it's wear and tear. I think the gears just have very little play.
 

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i have a 02 gt , with a short throw kit on it, iM not sure which, the guy who had it before me put it on there. anyways , i am experiencing the same problem with first and reverse. I own two cars that are sticks, and im fairly experienced in driving a manual.
 

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Sounds like problems with the stock quadrant not giving enough air gap in the clutch, or the combination with the flexy stock firewall bushing. I had a similar problem with my 90, the quadrant eventually totally stripped out and the first gear got damaged from the troubles getting into first. Even with stock clutches this is a problem, much worse if you upgrade to a stiffer unit like I did (FRPP HD)

Check out the UPR triple hook quadrant and extreme firewall adjuster, that is a nice setup, works with the SN 95 cable, eliminates the rubber bushing and is easy to adjust. The steeda gets good reviews also, I have the UPR setup if you could not notice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the steeda clutch cable and firewall adjuster. I have an SVO double hook quadrant. I wonder if a triple hook quadrant would make a differnce?
 

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Eh, with the setup you have you should be able to get a good air gap in the clutch providing you adjust the cable properly. The triple hook is nice, but only required so you can run various types of cables.

I adjust my cable so there is just SLIGHTL Y any play when I pull on the cable. I like to keep it pretty snug to the point where it just starts to press against the TO bearing.

You may have a growing problem with your synchros, or the Pilot bushing is going bad. It still sounds like the input shaft is turning somewhat while the clutch is disengages though. I am not sure about what issues inside your trans may cause this, it almost sounds like the endplay on the trans is very tight, this could be an issue with production etc, but that is pretty much a guess.

Pretty sure the shifter would not have much to do with this
 

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99 times out of a 100 it's a pressure plate/clutch problem, in that the clutch disc is not disengaging from the flywheel enough.

1. Have you lifted up on your clutch pedal every 5000 miles, or recently? This will adjust the quadrant, pulling the disc farther off the flywheel. If you've never done this, you might have to pull up with a good 30 to 50 pounds of force, since the plastic pieces might be 'frozen' to each other. Once it's unstuck, it takes less than 10 pounds of force to adjust it.
2. It's possible that some fingers on your P/P are failing. This happened to me, necessitating a new disc and P/P.
3. It's possible that your clutch cable is stretched, but the stock ones are so good that they normally last forever, at least with a stock clutch. My cable is great despite 1.5 times to twice the load on it from my Spec clutch.
4. When was the last time you had your clutch replaced?
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I replaced my clutch with the Mcloed and KC Pressure plate about a year and a half ago. I changed to the Steeda clutch cable about a yr ago because the long tube headers heated the old cable really bad. When driving real hard the clutch grabs good in all gears, i havent felt any signs of slipping. I pulled up on the clutch using about 10-20lbs of force and it seemed to helped a bit. I think I'll try about 50lbs of pressure and see if that helps.
 

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Well, you only need to pull up hard if it's frozen. If, when you pulled up the last time you heard it pop and the quadrant is adjusting correctly, it only takes real light pressure. So little you can do it with your toe while driving.
 
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