I used 4130 chromoly 3/4" .120 wall tubing for cross shaft with 1" .083 tube with bronze bushings. More chromoly for the pedal arm with a small plate for the rubber off my original pedal. The assembly is welded to a 3x6" 1/8 plate with 2 saddles for the 1" tube to sit in. This bolts to the floor. The other end of the cross shaft, I used a b-loc and a ring with a small rod end shaft to connect to the fork. I will add some pics before I explain how that works.
I wanted the relationship between the pedal and mounting point for shaft to the fork to be adjustable. The b-loc locks the shaft to the ring. loosen the hex head bolts and it will slide on the shaft, tighten them up and it wont move.
With my bellhousing i need to pull the fork to the back(opposite to stock) so my attachment point is to the bottom of the ring.
The spring it pulls the pedal back. The stop on the bellhousing prevents the pedal from rotating too far back to the driver.
The goal was to position everything so the rod end shaft was as flat as possible to the travel of the fork. worked out pretty good.
Where does the firewall flex come from this setup if there is no cable? It is now two lines with fluid in them as opposed to a cable, I would think there shouldn't be any flex. Also, how do you adjust a throw out bearing with a cable? Unless you are talking about using a cable to adjust where the clutch releases...I get that. Thanks
The master cylinder mounts to the firewall where the cable would go. When the firewall flexes and it does that changes the travel of the master cyl. Then the tob also changes. Just not the proper way to mount the master cyl. Any movement is bad.
Adjusting the clutch with the firewall adjuster to change the airgap. Also do it down on the clutch fork.
Hyd clutches are great for drivers not for racecars. Light pedal no cable stretch.
Pro pedal is what you need if you want to race the car and not have to mess with the clutch all the time.
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