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Yes, but I built my own. I needed reverse pull for my browell bell
 

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Do you have any pictures you can put up?
 

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Lighting isn't very good. I will be pulling the trans, so I will try get another angle at it.
 

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Lighting isn't very good. I will be pulling the trans, so I will try get another angle at it.
Very nice work! The picture is perfect zoomed-in on the iPad. Any other pictures would be great. Thanks.
 

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I used 4130 chromoly 3/4" .120 wall tubing for cross shaft with 1" .083 tube with bronze bushings. More chromoly for the pedal arm with a small plate for the rubber off my original pedal. The assembly is welded to a 3x6" 1/8 plate with 2 saddles for the 1" tube to sit in. This bolts to the floor. The other end of the cross shaft, I used a b-loc and a ring with a small rod end shaft to connect to the fork. I will add some pics before I explain how that works.
 

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I added a bolt to the back for adjustable stop

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bottom looking up.



I wanted the relationship between the pedal and mounting point for shaft to the fork to be adjustable. The b-loc locks the shaft to the ring. loosen the hex head bolts and it will slide on the shaft, tighten them up and it wont move.

With my bellhousing i need to pull the fork to the back(opposite to stock) so my attachment point is to the bottom of the ring.

The spring it pulls the pedal back. The stop on the bellhousing prevents the pedal from rotating too far back to the driver.

The goal was to position everything so the rod end shaft was as flat as possible to the travel of the fork. worked out pretty good.
 

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For standard fork travel you would mount to the top of the ring. In this case you could move the whole assembly back in the car leaving more room for foot work.


With this setup, there is no cable slack, i can adjust air gap and it wont change. Should be super consistent for reaction time.
 

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That really depends on your clutch. Mine has low base pressure so it feels like a Honda clutch
 

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What do you feel is the benefit of something like this over a hydraulic setup like McCleod sells or any other for that matter? Thanks
 

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For me I needed a push back on my fork to disengage my clutch so a cable wouldn't work. Some stick shift classes don't allow hydraulics and I didn't want to limit the option of racing with them.

Other benefits; faster reaction(no slack), adjustability(air gap), positive stops on travel.
 

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The hyd setup has more issues than a cable. The firewall flex is going to be a problem. You cant adjust a hyd tob like a cable.

The cable requires maintenance to keep it consistent every pass. The pro pedal should not.

Tim
 

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The master cylinder mounts to the firewall where the cable would go. When the firewall flexes and it does that changes the travel of the master cyl. Then the tob also changes. Just not the proper way to mount the master cyl. Any movement is bad.
Adjusting the clutch with the firewall adjuster to change the airgap. Also do it down on the clutch fork.

Hyd clutches are great for drivers not for racecars. Light pedal no cable stretch.

Pro pedal is what you need if you want to race the car and not have to mess with the clutch all the time.

Tim
 
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