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Man, I hope I don't run into this issue with the DLG-1 as I really like only having one gauge to monitor both banks.
Pro-M EFI (Tips & General Info)
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A lot of the times the reason the sensor goes bad are a few things:
Sensor too close, they aren't nearly as durable as it's ngk counterpart
waiting for the sensor to hear up and pretending it's a glow plug,
and too many cycles while tuning the system.
Been there done that
Sensor too close, they aren't nearly as durable as it's ngk counterpart
waiting for the sensor to hear up and pretending it's a glow plug,
and too many cycles while tuning the system.
Been there done that
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Do you know if there's an NGK alternate for the Bosch sensors that come with the Innovate system? I've replaced so many Bosch sensors on previous vehicles for the exact reasons you mentioned.
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Anyone here running this system on a car that came with PATS (Anti theft)? I have everything up and running and the Theft light on the dash is flashing like crazy and won't shut off. I'd assume it's because the factory computer is no longer in the system. The car runs, the light just keeps flashing the whole time, gets annoying. I emailed Chris about it, but figured I'd ask here too, just in case someone else had the problem.
EDIT: Chris responded and basically the solution is to remove the bulb since the PATS system is no longer functional, which is great.
EDIT: Chris responded and basically the solution is to remove the bulb since the PATS system is no longer functional, which is great.
Sorry I don't. You and I bought the system at two different times. During that time innovate started using a different wideband sensor. I think yours was Bosch 17065 where mine is 17012 or something like that.
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Spent some time getting the car running today. Had a few issues with keeping the car running and not throwing codes for being too rich, but after a discussion with Chris and adjusting the Low Slope on the injectors way down it finally runs. Still some issues that need to be sorted, but it runs a drives. Need to address the way oversize fuel pump I have and hopefully that will help with tuning the car and keeping the fuel temps down. Had an issue with the car shutting off on me twice when decelerating, not sure what that was all about, but I'll talk with Chris about it tomorrow. I like how the LS coils came out, they take up some room, but shouldn't have any spark issues again.
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Looks good. It does take time to sort through everything.
Oversized pump definitely isn't helping you. Stalling on deceleration is usually caused by improperly adjusted throttle blade. Try bringing up the idle pi correction into your variables. At idle it's supposed to be .010 or around there.
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Where is the idle pi correction located in the variables list? I'll drag that into my variables list tomorrow when i'm messing with the car.
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Two things you could change for stalling when decelerating. Your version of the software is newer than mine so some variables/wording may be different.
1.
Calibration
Idle Speed Control
Dashpot
Dashpot Decat TC (ECT)
Change TC from ???? to 0.300. Higher the number is the slower the tach drops on decel.
2.
Calibration
Fuel
a_Decel_RPM (Gear)
Change ??? to 7500 for all variables.
I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
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You have two menus Calibration and Variables.
Variables
Fuel
Closed loop
Bank1 UEGO
Bank1_UEGO_PI_Correction
You follow the same steps for Bank2 or you can watch the videos on page 1 of this thread.
I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
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1,321 Posts
I knew about those variables as I used them to tune my low slope. Just curious though, he mentioned, "Idle pi correction". Is that different?
And thanks for the info on the decel issue. I'll be talking with Chris tomorrow as well, hoping we can get that part figured out.
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Found it, I'll check this today. Thanks.
If it's off you will have to adjust the throttle blade in small increments. Watch the screen, make the adjustment and wait. The values don't change instantly. Make sure the vehicle is hot 195+, and make the adjustment when the fan isn't running.
You want it close to 0 but some correction is fine. Less than .015
Your running a mod motor, but you figures should be the same as mine. I would throw Chris Richards an email to double check.
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Just got off the phone with Chris, there's a couple other things he recommended I try first, so I'll give these a try. I'll watch that idle pi to see it out of curiosity, though. Chris thinks that my big ass fuel pump is causing some issues and that I need to address that as well, I don't disagree at all.
Absolutely fix your fuel issue first. But the procedure I outlined will definitely help you with setting your idle.
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Couple questions, what are you guys adjusting in the tune for cold start? My car will start cold, but it's rough and takes a good couple seconds for the idle to come up and stabilize. I'm sure there's something that can adjust for that.
Secondly, anyone with a forced induction setup, were you happy with the preset fueling table as it came from Pro-M? I'm still hesitant to start getting into higher boost based on logging the AFR and seeing that it stays in the 12 to 12.5 range as it goes into boost. I know this system is based on load and lambda as pretty much all Ford MAF systems are, but that still seems a bit lean, especially at 5-6 pounds of boost. The car's pulley setup now was seeing about 17psi at 6300 rpm before, so I'm not even getting close to that right now as I'm a little hesitant to keep pushing it since the commanded fuel seems a bit lean.
Secondly, anyone with a forced induction setup, were you happy with the preset fueling table as it came from Pro-M? I'm still hesitant to start getting into higher boost based on logging the AFR and seeing that it stays in the 12 to 12.5 range as it goes into boost. I know this system is based on load and lambda as pretty much all Ford MAF systems are, but that still seems a bit lean, especially at 5-6 pounds of boost. The car's pulley setup now was seeing about 17psi at 6300 rpm before, so I'm not even getting close to that right now as I'm a little hesitant to keep pushing it since the commanded fuel seems a bit lean.
Cold start would be a couple of things. Improper injector flow rate and improperly adjusted throttle blade. Your big pump is probably affecting the flow rate if the injectors.
As for your AFR, stop thinking about trying to improve the system. It's based on load like you said. I stopped questioning the AFR and just let the system do it's thing. It did take awhile to realize the system is fine where it is.
I didn't have a problem when I put the sc on. But if you feel you want it to have more fuel,
Click on your working page bring up the fuel map and click on current operating point. This will give you the exact point of the fuel table you wish to add.
In all seriousness, I would leave it alone. But doesn't hurt to get to know your system.
As for your AFR, stop thinking about trying to improve the system. It's based on load like you said. I stopped questioning the AFR and just let the system do it's thing. It did take awhile to realize the system is fine where it is.
I didn't have a problem when I put the sc on. But if you feel you want it to have more fuel,
Click on your working page bring up the fuel map and click on current operating point. This will give you the exact point of the fuel table you wish to add.
In all seriousness, I would leave it alone. But doesn't hurt to get to know your system.
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I adjusted my fuel injector flow rate and it pretty much fixed everything else. I had to bring the high slope down and then readjust the low slope, everything is working much better now. As for the fuel pump, it's not as oversized as I originally thought it was, but it's still bypassing a good amount of fuel. The pump is flowing about 150gph at 40psi, so it's still large, just not as oversize as originally thought. It's a Magnafuel Protuner 750, I plan to have it sized down to a 625 which flows about 110gph at 40psi, so a bit smaller, but it'll still support the power I'm making.
I'll be putting it on the dyno sometime this spring and adjusting the fuel and spark tables as needed.
I'll be putting it on the dyno sometime this spring and adjusting the fuel and spark tables as needed.
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