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Please call me Mike
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1,620 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is not an "install post" but more of hey here is something to plan for if you are running an aftermarket pan.

A week ago I ordered the new crank trigger kit and it arrived the other day. Others have talked about the parts and quality and they are completely accurate.

I read the documentation that came with it several times. Install seemed pretty straight forward. I emailed Chris for the new calibration. Using the "compare calibrations" tool, I was able to update the new base calibration with my info.

This is where the fun begins. Please note Page 3 at the 2nd to last line "Intended for use with stamped steel oil pans. Aluminum pans will require modification to the mount bracket. Call tech support for details"

I am using a Moroso 20511 pan. It is steel so no problem. Ha Ha. Notice anything missing?
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I will give you a hint. It rhymes with bolt hole.

I emailed chris and he suggested drilling a hole in the pan and using the bolt. That was my plan until i got into and saw there was more to it.

Also the way the pan is designed you can't just drill a hole. Lastly the pan to stud distance is to small for the bracket to fit on. So I get to modify the bracket. Please notice the ridge that the stud is on is part of the issue.

Here is the bracket so far: I have shaved some off the bottom
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I am going to have to take more out on the right side. The pan itself is bigger and causes the top bolt to be out of alignment.

I know they can't make a bracket for every oil pan. I think they should change the documentation to read something about compatibility with "factory oil pans" only. I have a cheapo aftermarket pan also. It has the issues as this nice pan.

I think when i install my new motor i will see about making a new bracket that attaches to the first bolt on the side on the pan

I will update the process as it moves forward
 

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Please call me Mike
Joined
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1,620 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
here is where I left it. I trimmed a little and test fit. Lather, rinse and repeat. Everything looked alright. I felt between the two bolts it should be ok. Later on i may add a bracket to go to the stud near the oil filter. now at least I can move forward.
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Premium Member
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5,988 Posts
Hey Mr_minnis,
Sorry to hear about your problems, modifications can be a huge pain in the arse as we all can relate to.

I'm not sure which block you're using but I'm assuming the bolt hole is there but the oil pan is covering it up. Is that correct?

MOROSO 20511 OIL PAN Notice the hole in the upper left and right corners are not there.
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MOROSO 20506 OIL PAN and has the bolt hole in the front upper left and right corners.
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I just added these two photos to help with clarity.

Thanks
Michael Plummer
 

·
Please call me Mike
Joined
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1,620 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chris pointed out to me that the bracket goes into the timing cover. So block type doesn't matter. I have the "new style" 20511 (it has the billet end rails, but it is a couple years old.)

There wasn't oil pan rail to drill into and use the bracket as shipped.

Please don't be sorry, this is my own fault. I should know my Mustang hates me and anytime i do a simple upgrade it turns out to be a struggle.

I have more to tell. The Crank trigger wheel doesn't fit a innovators west 204 balancer. I had to have the center bored out .10 to get it to seat. I am not sure if their hub center is larger than stock or if there was an issue with the wheel i received.

last but not least the sensor bracket assembly had to be modified also. Between the Innovators West balancer having a raised ring on the outside and the oil pan bracket i should have guessed it.

The wiring, shutter wheel modification and writing the new calibration to the pcm went well. so there is that.

I'll post some pictures when i am sure everything is ok.
 
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