Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Don't know where your post is but anyway!

There's some debate about this, The kevlar has better heat tolerance but the fiberglass has more shear strength. Either of these are 500% better than the stock belt, I have about 2 years of Daily driver/drag race use on the Kevlar belt in my BD-11, and I ain't skeered to hammer it at will.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Hey, where did my post go? :eek: Thanks Jim, I knew you would help me out. I'll get the Kevlar belt from ForcepowerEng. Another point of curiosity: I pulled the old invoice where Powerdyne rebuilt the blower the last time, and the invoice states a fiberglass belt. It seems to be ok, but I'm going to replace it and keep it as a spare. I'm also going to clean up my impeller and reuse it, I don't think it's too bad. Just kinda worried about pushing 11 on an imperfect impeller, though. Thanks again!

Shane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
Ah!!! just the info I was looking for. I am buying a powerdyne from a guy and it needs a belt. I guess I will get the kevlar.
While i am here I will ask more questions.
1. Will my 24 lb injector be ok with a 9lb powerdyne with FMU. I will be running the combo below. I have a chance to get a set of 42 lb injectors. Should I go this route and ditch the FMU? I will also be running a BTM.

2. I am in need of a bracket for the accy tensioner to mount to the powerdyne. I called powerdyne and it will cost $70 for one.
I heard it could poss be made easily. Anyone have any pics of the bracket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
The accesories belt tensioner is just the stock one relocated to the powerdyne aluminum head bracket.
Just a bolt hole and a set pin hole.
do you have A/C ? because the kit is designed around a car "with" so if you don't, there are a few mods you need to make.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
I have A/c and Power steering. I don't have a smog pump. What will I need to do to get around this?
Powerdyne says that there is a bracket that the accy. tensioner bolts to. Anyone have pic of this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
Well, I seem to run into problems every time I try to post pics here so I've given up. but the bracket they are speaking of could be made with some 1/4" plate if your handy but you would need more than pictures I'm affraid.
You will need a smog pump delete kit because you will have to have a pulley in it's place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
B-Ray
Could you email me pics? Also would you be willing to take some measurements if the bracket is handy?
You can email the pics to [email protected]
I would appreciate it. I am trying to save $70 and not have to buy a bracket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
Excellent I love dealing with people like yourself.
Guys that get to mess with stangs for living have it made.
Oneof these days I hope to be one of those guys.
Let me know what you can do to help.
thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
jim94vert said:
Don't know where your post is but anyway!

There's some debate about this, The kevlar has better heat tolerance but the fiberglass has more shear strength. Either of these are 500% better than the stock belt, I have about 2 years of Daily driver/drag race use on the Kevlar belt in my BD-11, and I ain't skeered to hammer it at will.

Jim
Actually, it's the other way around... The Kevlar belt is stronger, but the fiberglass belt handles heat better. Stock Powerdyne belts are fiberglass and 32mm wide. The aftermarket ones available are both 35mm wide.

Hope this helps.

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
The Kevlar belt is stronger, but the fiberglass belt handles heat better.
Thanks Matt. I ordered the Kevlar belt and new bearings from you back in January (by the way, thanks for the great service!). Since I'm running the 11 lb. pulley, I think the Kevlar was the best choice for me. Hopefully I'll get the head unit back on this week, and (crossing my fingers...) get it dyno'd next week. Thanks again!
Shane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
boosted 89
Have you ran your car with the powerdyne? if so what are your times and any idea what kinda power you made?
How much boost are you seeing with the 11lb pulley?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
wltang,
I have only ran my car at the local 1/8 mile track, I haven't had a chance to get to a 1/4 mile track yet. My best 1/8 e.t. with the blower is 7.99, but it's pretty hard to get traction with the drag radials (The car actually ran a quicker 7.90 at 90mph before the blower, with a 150-shot of n2o, stock ported heads, on G60 M&H tires with the stock 2.73 gears). Some ET Streets would definitely help me out. My best 1/8 mph with the blower so far is 92.74, but I'm hoping with a better tune it will pick up some. I'm seeing 10-11 lbs. of boost with the 11 lb. pulley, but I have an AFM powerpipe and a huge 12" x 6" conical filter, so I'm sure that helps. I also have a Vortech discharge, and a bypass valve. I think there should be at least 2-3 more (1/8) mph left in the car. I think the Powerdyne is a decent blower for its size, but I just wish it would stay together so I could enjoy it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,020 Posts
I've tried both belts from Matt, what I've learned:

Kelvar: good for drag racing only if you have good/replaced/fresh bearings.

Fiberglass: worn ceramic bearings or open track duty.

If you keep breaking replacement belts within <1K miles, it's probably the bearings (if not replaced). Otherwise, it's a quality control issue. Replacing bearings and at the same time is the best way to go. Otherwise, go gear-charged...

HTH,
--C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
cw50:
Thanks for the info. My brother just rebuilt mine this week with new bearings and belt from Matt (he's a machinist, so he had most of the tools to make the job easy...what tools he didn't have he made in the machine shop). I think the longest my head unit has ever stayed together was around 8,000 miles, and that was with the 11 lb. pulley (for some reason w/ the 9 lb., it only lasted 500-1000 miles-- I think this was totally unrelated to pulley size, though.)
He found a few interesting things: Lots of metal scraps from previous failures stuck inside the case....namely, from the old tensioner (or tensioner bearing) Powerdyne previously used. No big deal, but the biggest piece was the size of a dime, what if it had dislodged? Surely it wouldn't have been good for the belt. All of the previous rebuilds (3 or 4, lost count) were performed by Powerdyne. Needless to say, he cleaned all of the junk out that they left in there. Hopefully it will last a few miles now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,462 Posts
boosted89
So the vortec discharge pipe will work? Where did you get the 11lb pulley?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
So the vortec discharge pipe will work? Where did you get the 11lb pulley?
The vortech discharge works fine, with no modifications (on mine at least). I got the 11 lb. pulley from NA Motorsport, but they've gone out of business. I think you can still get them from www.superchargersonline.com , but there may be others who carry them as well. Good luck!

Shane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,020 Posts
boosted89: thanks, no problem...

BTW on the history:
My OEM belt snapped after 6 passes on drag radials @11psi (belt had 30K street miles on it previous, etc...). Installed a kelvar belt and that lasted 15months 3 test-n-tunes (4 passes each??) , but then I took it to my first OT event it snapped on my 4th run.
Switched to fiberglass--lasted 6months including an OT event and 3 test-n-tunes, broke one day on the way to work. Drive bearing wobble was present.
Switch back to kelvar w/the wobbling bearing (and more bearing play), belt snapped on my 3nd WOT on the street @9psi.

Note, I never changed the bearings :eek: , and over time you can tell they were going south...

Retired it afterwards. Still have a fresh set of bearings on the desk thou :).
---C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
I've seen pics of what Dinan BMW did to their Powerdyne blowers to reduce internal temps. They drilled several exhaust holes at the bottom of the head unit and covered them with screen. Then drilled another hole where the belt tensioner bearings used to be inside and plumbed a hose that led to the front of the car, and had a filter on the end. Air would be forced into the head unit when the car was moving forward and exhausted out the bottom. Supposedly, the reliability went up quite a bit, and temps inside the head unit dropped over 100*. I was thinking about doing something similar, but I'm too uptight to try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,897 Posts
i really want to do something like that...the coolness factor would be awesome, not to mention the cooling factor :D
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top