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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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EDIT: There was a seal. See below for new info



took the fitting off my busted 2003 Cobra rack to show

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your two options are:

tighten it up and hope it holds.

replace the lines and hope it cures the problem.

New transfer lines

Regular steel

Stainless steel (on sale on this site)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you kindly Mustang 5L5. New tubes it is. Tightening made is worse.
 
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Good luck. I tried to replace my line and it didn't work because there was a teflon washer was crushed inside the rack and I couldn't get it out. The replacement line also had a different flare. I ended up getting so pissed I just dropped $100 on a napa reman rack since I couldn't get a good enough angle to R&R that damn washer and had to pull the rack anyway. If you look closely at Mike's picture you'll see a tiny bit of that washer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I noticed that bit of green. I corresponded with the folk at Maximum Motorpsorts and they don't believe there is a seal in there based on the service manual. I ordered the hard lines as a temporary measure so we shall see. I also ordered a used SN95 rack off eBay and will send it to Turn One for a rebuild. Car is mostly used for autocross and track days so it could benefit from the upgrade. The current rack is close to 35 years old? I dont know its full history but its at least 15 years old.
 

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edit: see below. I missed the seal

The green is a sort of wax that was put on the threads as a way of indicating if the fitting was removed. This rack is a Cardone 22-2000 reman, so all 4 fittings had this green wax on the threads. It's purely external and not a sealing mechanism. I can take more photos if desired.

I removed that fitting for the sake of the photographs. There was no additional sealing device in there. I had no leaking issues with that particular rack. I'll pull another fitting off later to take better pics.

Edit: I have this crappy pic on my phone that i originally deleted. The green tamper indicating wax is external only. I'll get a better pic
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Here’s the green stuff. Just a wax anti-tampering goo. I assure you it’s all external

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I’ll pull the lines off tonight and take another look.
 

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My apologies for giving incomplete/incorrect info.

it does appear to be a seal inside there.

pulled off two connections and there is a Teflon washer down there. No idea why I missed this the first time.
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the flared end of the tube sits against the inner housing face, and the nut bottoms out against the seal
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This is not the same seal as what parts stores sell to seal the two feed/return lines to the rack. I have a bunch of those and they are not the same

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I tried to remove the seal, but it’s extruded into the threading at the bottom so id have to destroy it to remove it.

I can try and get some rough measurements and see if mcmaster sells a similar seal. It looks nothing more than a Teflon washer
 
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Took some measurements of the seal. Take this with a grain of salt because I’m measuring a crushed seal inside the bore.

OD: 0.500”
ID : 0.350”

the flared part of the tube slips into the ID of the washer. That flare measures 0.350” and the seal is tight to that. 1/2” OD would drop into the fitting bore. At that point you are just crushing it with the bottom of the nut.

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the actual crushing face of the bottom of the nut is 0.350”-0.484”

Hopefully it’s not too difficult to find an appropriately sized Teflon washer
 

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Hopefully it’s not too difficult to find an appropriately sized Teflon washer
I gave up. There wasn’t room to do it with the rack on the car. I couldn’t find the info you did because mine was crushed/broken. Hell I couldn't even get it out with all the variety of picks and small pliers. When I put the replacement line on crap just blasted everywhere again. That’s when I noticed the seal with a dentist mirror.
 

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I looked online a bit too and couldn’t find the proper seal. I’m sure it’s available somewhere but probably in an obscure place as it’s not something changed often. The rack rebuilders probably have bins of them.


These might do it. But $20 from Singapore and you are waiting a month. Plus you have to drill out the center of it to the proper 0.35

PITA
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Gentlemen. Well crud. Im going to have to raise the engine?!?! The nut hits the front of the oil pan and I cant get the fitting out. Its a Canton road race pan and I cant dent it because the point of contact is where the bottom is welded to the side. It will break the pan. Really?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have the orings and Permatex product for the soft line fittings. Once I get the hardline fitting out I will confirm there is no seal there. I believe the consensus is no seal.
 

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Thanks Gentlemen. Well crud. Im going to have to raise the engine?!?! The nut hits the front of the oil pan and I cant get the fitting out. Its a Canton road race pan and I cant dent it because the point of contact is where the bottom is welded to the side. It will break the pan. Really?
The entire reason I ran into this god damn debacle as well was I bent the line with the big ass Ford Racing pan on my new 363 when I was lowering it in. I was lucky and was just BARELY able to get my rack off without unbolting and raising the engine. We're talking ass hair territory. Which is why I had no room to find out about that stupid washer inside. Then, the replacement lines $50 had a different loop that wouldn't come close to clearing the pan, there was no way to bend them to work.

Napa Part number 361011. When I bought it April of 2020 it was $100. I didn't know I could score a rack that cheap until the Napa guy was like "you can't get these lines or fittings anywhere...but..I have this on the shelf..." I figured what the hell since the rack on the car now. I looked at pictures of what I had vs the rack at the store and the lines were shaped/bent the same. Some have a straight bend and the others a loop . The loop is what clears a bigger pan. I can't find the pictures that I took of the differences, but I did find my invoice in my binder. (Got paid back the core when I brought my old rack in)

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ugh. I have a Griggs K member and the engine is set back. See the pics. Ha! I ordered two hard line kits. One from Rockauto and one from Amazon. One part is described as being compatible with aftermarket suspension. Damn it. Its always something. I had the engine out last year for a rebuild. I don't know why I didn't upgrade the rack then.
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Sigh I can feel the frustration in those pictures.
 

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Edit.
 

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Wow. I feel your pain there
 
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