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Discussion Starter #1
I want to get some polyurethane bushings for my ride.
Looking for a front kit, and rear kit. I keep seeing diff kits, and some that cost about $180. Looking for front:sway bar, end links (need more?) rear:upper,lower CA (do they make rear sway bar ones?)

like these from Steeda:

555-4012
1985-1993 Front Urethane Bushing Kit
$49.95

Urethane Rear Bushing Kit
Includes Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings

122-4-3115-G
1983-1998 w/Oval Front Lower Bushings
$89.50

is that what I want? lol the two put together. I'm looking to maybe do an event at Willow Springs a few a weeks, need new shocks and want to get Poly busings too.
thanks peoples
 

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Poly is OK for your front anti-roll bar frame bushings and endlinks. A word of warning - don't overtighten the endlink bolts as the stiffer poly has been known to cause endlink bolts to fail in fatigue (I'm not making this up - this is a repair-industry identified problem with Explorers and Expeditions with hard bushing endlinks). If the bushings are bulging as you tighten the bolts you've gone too far. Use Locktite blue.

It's passable for front control arms, and you'll want to trim the end that doesn't have the flange so that the bushing is a tiny bit shorter than the sleeve that goes through it. Better suspension freedom of motion and much less apt to squeak. However, Delrin or Del-A-Lum is better here (stiffer and more durable, but naturally more expensive).

Other than for drag racing, out-of-the-box plain poly is bad anywhere out back. Variations are acceptable in the LCA's, such as the three-piece poly bushings from MM. You can also "get away with" modding plain ones so they don't bind as badly. Downside to the modded bushing approach appears to be that the sleeves accumulate surface corrosion a bit faster. E-mail me if you're interested (and have access to a drill press).

Forget about using poly in the UCA's. Period.

Your rear bar hard-mounts to the LCA's, so there aren't any bushings at all.

Norm
 

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Norm Peterson?

Your saying polyurethane is ok for the front, so then what is good for the rear on a street car that spends very little time on the strip? What is the difference between polyurethane and polygraphite?
 

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Re: Norm Peterson?

jwyrick said:
Your saying polyurethane is ok for the front,
I also said that Delrin/Del-A-Lum is better. Particularly if you are running OE-type springs as opposed to coilovers. OE springs result in considerably greater vertical loads being applied to these bushings than c/o's. Poly is far more likely to deform under load over time ("creep" in materials-speak).


so then what is good for the rear on a street car that spends very little time on the strip?
3-piece poly in the LCA's. You'll get improvement in axle location even if you use it in only one end of each LCA. Leave the UCA's alone until or unless you're going to go the TA/PHB route (at which time the UCA's will simply be removed). I'll note here that in SCCA F-Stock auto-x, where bushing swaps are not permitted, the 'Stangs seem to be putting up a decent fight against the F-bodies at the local level in some regions.


What is the difference between polyurethane and polygraphite?
Solid lubrication from the impregnated graphite. Supposedly less apt to squeak.

Norm
 
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