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Discussion Starter #1
I just moved to Florida a couple months ago and am thinking I may want to think about upgrading my cooling system. In the heat with the air on my car will usually run between 195-205, with it being closer to 200-205 in the middle of the day. In the mornings and evenings when it is cooler and less humid I run between 185-195.

The cooling system now is all stock save for a 180 thermostat.

Do you think I need to upgrade and if so, what do you reccommend? I was thinking aluminum radiator, electric fan, and maybe a new waterpump??

Any advice as far as which parts and which manufacturers would be great. My mods are in my sig.

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Formerly BLOWN1989SALEEN
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thats not a bad temp to run in florida heat in the middle of the day with AC kicking, its warmer than im comfortable with though. get yourself a nice 3 core aluminum radiator(or 2 large cores)with a Mk8 electric fan and youll see DRASTIC temp drops
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Would the SVO Aluminum radiator be sufficient or is a Fluidyne necessary?

Also, as far as the MK8 fan...where do you score one of these and what do they cost and will it work with no problems with the S-trim set-up?
 

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I'd recommend the Griffin Universal 31" x 19". It fits with little to no modification, it's built nice and it's cheap! I'd shy away from the electric fan unless you plan on doing the Mark8 upgrade -- which would also require a 3G alternator upgrade. Your car isn't running hot what-so-ever. If your car maintains that temp with AC on through Jax'ville traffic, you're doing well.
 

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Like Blown saleen mentioned, 200-205 isnt anything to worry about. If you start climbing to around 215-225 or so, then look into upgrading your radiator IMO.
 

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I agree, that temp is fine, assuming you are using an aftermarket gauge.

I have a 192 thermostat and my car basically sits at 192, sometimes a bit higher in traffic. Hopefully it stays that way once the blower is installed.
 

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Before you spend big bucks on a new cooling system, try Water Wetter by Red line, it dropped my temp 20-15 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help guys! Over the past week since I have posted the temp has gotten up to 215 a few times. I think just for piece of mind I am going to order the Ford Aluminum radiator.

I think I can get it for $219, and I think it will be plenty help for my system. I cant really see spending the extra $$ on the Fluidyne, and I dont want to go with a universal fit. I would rather pay the extra $30 to have less hastles. If it were $100, then it would be a different story!


Anyway, thanks again.

Dan
 

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duffman said:
Before you spend big bucks on a new cooling system, try Water Wetter by Red line, it dropped my temp 20-15 degrees.
Not to be a d!ck, but I've read that watter wetter does not really help a closed system. If you add a physical component, then you may see temp drops. But, if you add an additive to a closed system and the temp drops, then it might be because the additive is affecting the way the temp sensor reads.

This is what Stewart has to say about watter wetters:
"UNEQUIVOCALLY WATER IS THE BEST COOLANT! We recommend using a corrosion inhibitor comparable to Prestone Super Anti-Rust when using pure water. If freezing is a concern, use the minimum amount of antifreeze required for your climate. Stewart Components has extensively tested all of the popular "magic" cooling system additives, and found that none work better than water. In fact, some additives have been found to swell the water pumps seals and contribute to pump failures.

In static cooling situations, such as quenching metal during heat treating, softening agents (sometimes referred to as water wetting agents) will allow the water to cool the quenched part more evenly and quickly. The part will cool quicker, and the water will heat up faster. However, an automotive cooling system is not static. In fact, the velocities inside a cooling system are comparable to a fire hose forcing coolant against the walls of the engine's water jackets. If the softening agents actually aided in cooling the engine, the temperature of the coolant as it exited the engine would have to be higher because it would have absorbed more heat."


This is unless the Water Wetter somehow allows the radiator to be more efficient, but I would think that the temp is hitting the temp gauge before it gets to the radiator.

I understand this is only their opinion. I run only 10-15% cooland and two bottles of Prestone Super Anti Rust, 93 Cobra water pump pulley, FRPP aluminum radiator and don't have a/c. Runs right at the thermostat (180) while driving, and stays under 190 in stop and go freeway traffic on hot days.

JMHO, of course.
 

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Nothing cools better than larger core radiators. The larger the cores the better the cooling. PERIOD. The reason for this is additional surface area and more water capacity. More water and more surface = cooler temperatures. Use a 180* thermostat, distilled water, and definitely go with the Griffin NASCAR 31x19 radiator. It is 31x19 and has 1.25" cores and two rows which makes it the equivalent of a 4 row copper radiator. Make sure you replace the radiator cap because without a good cap the cooling system can't pressurize properly and will end up being a waste of money because of a $5.00 part. I use Stant thermostats and radiator caps because they have a lifetime warranty against failure and they made in the USA (support American workers!). I've only had one fail and they sent me a new one four days later free of charge.
 
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