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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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I used trans fluid when installed pistons.
Now that’s old school. Have seen it work on a few Chevys from my friend. Including one high compression 406 that made a bit of steam at the time. Combo parts list from an uncle that ran Top Alcohol. Watched him at Pamona. Then experienced my first top fuel pass after. You can’t explain it. You have to experience it. This was the mid ‘90’s.
 

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ive used 2 stroke oil in place of engine oil on 4 strokes for break in with good results. usually two stroke oils are made of bright stock and the molecules are usually twice the size of 4 stroke oil molecules and provide better protection, problem is, it doesn't last long. its sheared down quickly but that fine, its break in oil and is going to be ran for a short time anyway and changed to 4 stroke oil. I broke in my 351 with amsoil dominator 2 stroke oil in the crankcase. also mix usually a 50:1 in the tank too. bitog has several write ups with 2 stroke oil and its makeup, as well as real world results of driving modern vehicles with premix in the tank who report long lasting fuel system parts and components as well as increase (small) in fuel mileage. I can't remember the brand of actual brake in oil that I bought to see what it looked like, and it looked and smelled just like two cycle oil. I can't remember if it was motul, or something similar, i'll have to find the bottle, ive always wanted to send it to blackstone to have it anylized and see whats actually in it.

again, your going to get all kinds of answers to this question lol, lots of repair manuals that i own for rebuilding powersports engines state to coat the pistons/rings/bores with two cycle oil, also to use it in place of K&N oil for oiled air filters in place of the actual product.

most think im crazy but thats fine with me, helps me from being bothered
i know this is slightly oft topic but here goes anyway

many moons ago I got into racing go-karts in the midwest. First season we had all kinds of engine issues. Rods out the block, seized, bunch of other problems lubrication related. mind you, these things are splash lubricated (no pump). Next season a guy told me to try some 2 stroke oil in the crankcase. Why not, already knew that I wasn't gonna get a full nights' event in anyway on regular 4 stroke oil. Well what do you know, 2nd place in the A main first time out. Next weekend, won. Tore the engine down for inspection. Nary a scratch anywhere, not on the rod journal, tappets, camshaft, block, not the crank, nothing not even the cylinder which was very unusual for these engines, they almost always needed work between events (rings, block, etc) Huh? Whatever who cares it works. Next weekend a WKA event in Indiana, had an issue with a clutch and had to run the B. Ran 2 stroke oil all rest of season in the crankcase and won the nat championship in 1986, again in 1988. It was just some cheap $0.55/quart quaker state general purpose 2 stroke oil, nothing fancy, the drug store had it and I could walk to the drug store and walk home with a couple bottles in a brown paper sack. Moved 650 miles South in 1989 and didn't take any of the go-kart stuff with us, nowhere to race at the time so sold it all off for pennies. Got into drag racing in 1990, got in with some bigger names in the late 90's did some C/E stuff (driving only) and some of my own K/SA, Super Stock, then got tied up with blown alk stuff and started getting the itch for the fuel, among others before hung it all up and went bracket racing. A wise man told me, once you go down the track in a fuel car, you are never the same again. He's right. It is a drug. An expensive one.

2 stroke oil works.
 

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I normally just use some cheap 30wt oil for a few heat cycles then my normal oil (VR 10w30 for me) but after buying a quart of Lucas 2cycle oil earlier id say its probably a possibility but I dont know the weight? Seems mighty thin... So many different opinions on the subject just do what works for you is my advice.
 

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For assembly, all you really want is a light oil, I swear C&A A0-108 was 10wt hydraulic jack oil, wiped on the cylinder wall. Then you want the sides of the rings lubricated so that they don't gall in the ring grooves.

It really doesn't matter what you use. Transmission fluid is fine, but it doesn't (or didn't) have rust inhibitors in it so it's isn't suitable if the engine will be stored for a while.
 

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Tungsten disulfide (WS2) appears to work well as a dry lubricant for the rings, and cylinder walls...same as Total Seal Quickseat.

"There is a critical time period for new or “green” engines known as the break-in period during which asperity contacts between the moving surfaces of joined components are removed or modified to allow moving surfaces to matingly conform to one another. During the break-in period, rough outer surfaces of new piston rings wear against the tiny surface scratches that exist in the cylinder wall causing high spots to be worn off, thereby properly fitting the rings in the cylinder bore. During this break-in period, the piston ring and cylinder wall interface is particularly susceptible to a condition known as scuffing, wherein there is a propensity for the piston ring to momentarily weld to the cylinder wall. Scuffing occurs when the new piston ring is in metal-to-metal contact with the cylinder wall and the piston ring expands under pressure and heat. As a result, the cylinder wall is roughened and the piston ring and cylinder wall fail to mate and form a proper seal. Accordingly, gases and oil may escape, thereby reducing the efficiency and overall useful life of the engine."
Ref: US Patent Application for Piston ring coating Patent Application (Application #20040237776 issued December 2, 2004) - Justia Patents Search
 
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