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I still use Childs & Albert AO-108. I had plenty when they closed up.

When I run out, I'll switch to Total Seal AL8 Assembly Lube, but 10W 30 or 10W 40 mineral oil would work fine, although I prefer something thin enough to allow increased wear prior to startup.

Marvel Mystery oil is good too.
wait...what?
 

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my tuner recommended lucas with zinc since i couldn't find any break in dyno oil. heat cycled the engine 10 times (cranked, let it warm up, kill it) changed the oil, then it went on the dyno with a fresh oil change and more lucas with zinc and it was solid.

700 or so miles on it now and this thing rips, no smoke.
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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I may be incorrect here.... But I was informed that if you use 10/30 or 10/40 on the rings it increases the chance of coking up the rings and you're better off using a thinner oil on the rings to promote quicker break in... But like I said I may be incorrect...
 

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I may be incorrect here.... But I was informed that if you use 10/30 or 10/40 on the rings it increases the chance of coking up the rings and you're better off using a thinner oil on the rings to promote quicker break in... But like I said I may be incorrect...
im just repeating what i've been told here and what seems to work. the key is lots of zinc which is why synthetic oil is bad.
 

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depends on the engine im building, but two stroke oil is somethin ive use a lot to do this with believe it or not, and im not talking about smearing it in the bores, im talking about crank case filled.
 

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depends on the engine im building, but two stroke oil is somethin ive use a lot to do this with believe it or not, and im not talking about smearing it in the bores, im talking about crank case filled.
I use it also ...though I coated the pistons rings n bores with it n 15/30 rotella in the crankcase....then mix the 2 stroke with the gas in the tank...say 4 pints to 10 gal of real premium gas....n go for a drive after it hits operating temp....Engine n trans are from a 84 GT350 Turbo 2.3 in a 93 LX.....to each their own tho
 

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ive used 2 stroke oil in place of engine oil on 4 strokes for break in with good results. usually two stroke oils are made of bright stock and the molecules are usually twice the size of 4 stroke oil molecules and provide better protection, problem is, it doesn't last long. its sheared down quickly but that fine, its break in oil and is going to be ran for a short time anyway and changed to 4 stroke oil. I broke in my 351 with amsoil dominator 2 stroke oil in the crankcase. also mix usually a 50:1 in the tank too. bitog has several write ups with 2 stroke oil and its makeup, as well as real world results of driving modern vehicles with premix in the tank who report long lasting fuel system parts and components as well as increase (small) in fuel mileage. I can't remember the brand of actual brake in oil that I bought to see what it looked like, and it looked and smelled just like two cycle oil. I can't remember if it was motul, or something similar, i'll have to find the bottle, ive always wanted to send it to blackstone to have it anylized and see whats actually in it.

again, your going to get all kinds of answers to this question lol, lots of repair manuals that i own for rebuilding powersports engines state to coat the pistons/rings/bores with two cycle oil, also to use it in place of K&N oil for oiled air filters in place of the actual product.

most think im crazy but thats fine with me, helps me from being bothered
 
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