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Discussion Starter #1
I received the new improved Paxton tune on Monday, the car does shift better, but not perfect. The 1-2 shift no longer bangs the rev limiter, but it is still soft as mush, it doesn't even chirp 2nd if I leave it in "D", this is the mighty Novi 2000 I thought? The 2-3 shift is better, but it still seems to shift to 3rd then back to 2nd for a quick instant then back to 3rd. Even when it shifts straight into 3rd, it is a soft mushy shift, not firm at all. The transmission does not downshift aggressively either, it seems like it doesn't kick down at as high a speed as it used to when floored, but seems more content to stay in the higher gear and wait to build up RPMs, not the quickest way to pass someone. *** More problems - I just ordered a boost gauge, I need to see if I am making full boost, if not I am going to try a smaller belt for sure, it does not feel tight enough to me. ********** BIG PROBLEM - my car would not start after work today, it cranked and cranked. Thinking it was the new chip maybe screwing up I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and then tried again, no luck. Then I held the pedal to the floor and finally it kicked over and sputtered out. Then it cranked over on the next turn. Is this a chip problem or IS MY WALBRO FUEL PUMP ABOUT TO TAKE A DUMP ON ME??? I seem to be hearing a humming sound that I never noticed before when I drive. What are some signs of a fuel pump going? thanks all
 

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I believe the start-up issue has very little to do w/ the tune on the chip. There is an independent tune & settings for the ignition. When you attempted to start your car after work was it very cold out (was the engine totally cold)? The ignition needs to be adjusted for the new tune, the Novi2000, & the environment that you live in. I know that this does not seem to make much sense, however I experienced almost the very same thing. I need a more knowledgable individual to kick in here on the ignition issue. Again 00whiteGTvert I will remind you of the need for you to pay a visit to Dave at Kauffman Motorsports. He really knows his sh*t when it comes to tuning these automatics. Hope this helps (even though some of it might not make to much sense to you).

Riley
 

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Either JD's or Kauffmans, you have to stop messing with the Paxton Chip. They can't do it right, period!

Get the car to a professional to look at all the little issues you are having. While your installing guages, it might be a good idea to do a FP gauge.
 

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Don't rely on paxton tune's to make the tranny work right, they do not mess with the tranny firmness at all, get a dyno tune by someone familiar with the tranny, it will be the best couple hundred bucks you've spent so far. with PI heads you should have a bit of a beast, my non PI with the 1K and a tune will put the car sideways on the 1-2 shift and chirp anything over 1/4 throttle. you should be putting down 50+HP more than me so I would expect it to feel alot better than you explained, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies guys, I definitely feel a dyno-tune or chip of some sort is necessary at this point. I prefer a dyno-tune, but I was hoping to be able to pick up a few mods before I do that, such as gears, maf, and a catted mid-pipe to really make it worth it. Also, before I dyno-tune, I want to make sure the car is making full boost (I still think the belt is slipping) and that the fuel pump is not going - I would like to check out the Chicane pump if it is. All the tuners I have spoken to (Dave at Kauffman's) and (PeteC at Fordchip) have told me to get a new maf before I dyno-tune.
 

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White,

Check to see if the "THEFT" light is blinking when your car is turning over but failing to start. If it is, then chances are that you might be having the same problem that I did and your chip is interfering with the passive anti-theft system (PATS). Sometimes this can happen if the chip doesn't make proper contact with the ECU. I was told to clean my ECU contacts off and bend the clips on the chip a little to make it a better fit. This helped some, but I STILL had problems with it. The shop that did my tune reburned my program onto a new chip and the problem went away--so faulty chip or bad install the first time around? Who knows... but the problem DID lie with the chip...

The buzzing/humming noise that you hear is probably a fuel pump. I have a walboro 255 and an external pump that came with my ATI kit. I hear the pump kick in before starting the car, and it often seems louder when I'm lower on gas (more resonnance in the tank maybe?). I was told that it's "normal" but that I can lessen the sound if I remount the external pump to the front of the plastic gas tank cover (right now, it's on metal so it buzzes more).

Hope this can save you some grief...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Shane, BINGO, that is exactly what was happening. The theft light was flashing, and the car would jusr keep cranking. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and then it kicked over after I held the pedal down while cranking the car over. I disconnected the battery because I thought it might reset itself, if that didn't work I have the old chip in a box in the car or I could have pulled the chip out and driven home without getting into boost, it was just too cold outside to be fooling with it. I will recheck the contacts and make sure it is making good contact. *** I still hear the Walbro fuel pumps eventually fail in our cars because they are not variable voltage, that is why that thought crossed my mind *** thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update - Wednesday night (20 degrees or less), the car won't start again. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes, still won't kick over. So, with my fingers going numb, I remove the computer and put the old chip back in, it starts right up. I guess the new improved Paxton chip shifts better, but doesn't start 1/2 the time. It seems the new chip does not seat as well as the old chip, maybe this is the problem. It does interfere with the PATS (passive anti-theft system??) and won't allow the car to start, at least I know it is not the fuel pump. I can't wait to call Paxton tomorrow!!! So now, I have the old chip in that bangs the rev limiter on the 1-2 shifts and totally screws up the 2-3 shift, I am going to try to get Paxton to kick in for a custom chip or dyno-tune, either that or I will utilize my warranty if they don't make things right. Wish me luck!
 

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I agree with the others.... Stop messing with Paxton and get yourself a Dynotune or at least a Fordchip.com Chip
Don't worry about your future mods just yet.... Get your car running right first and then add the other stuff...

If you get in contact with Pete he will take care of you. He knows how to make your car shift the right way and even increase the firmness of the shifts under part time throttle.. However to make it shift under WOT you will either have to do the Jerry Mod or get a reputable shift kit installed or a performance Valve body put in.
Also if you get a Fordchip now and then add any major mods in the future.. You can get your chip reflashed for about $150.00 bucks... so you don't really have to start from scratch...

I don't think you have to worry about the Fuel pump... At least not just yet. I had mine for almost 2 years now without any major problems.... I am actually swapping my pump just to be on the safe side... With over 400 horses under the hood I don't want to be sucking air ;) You should at least pick up a 90MM Lightning MAF... It will give tuners a little bit more to work with then your stock unit. They run about 125 at your local Ford Dealer.. Plus core charge....

If you are worried about the belt than change it.... That should be simple enough... However, I still think you are okay in that department. Just look at your Belt adjuster... If there is half and inch or more of adjustment left you should be fine...

Also to change the seat of the pants Feel I would change to 4.10 gears as soon as you can aford it. I swapped gears long before I went to a Supercharger and that was the best mod I ever did prior to the blower.. You wont regret it..... It will enhance on how your blower works and make a lot more power way quicker than now... You will be pleasantly surprised....

That second chip seems to be a dud... So tell Paxton to take that chip and shove .... you are not messing with them anymore... ;)

Good Luck and I am sure once you have those issues resolved you will love the way your car drives....

Tom in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sting - I called Paxton today, they are going to let me know tomorrow, I told them to make this right they should either pay at least 1/2 for a dyno-tune or for a Fordchip.com chip, I said it is their choice. I also told them I have been posting on mustang boards and lots of people are interested in how they handle this. They said they will let me know Friday, but they wanted to know some dyno-tuners near me. I gave them a few names and they said they knew of the closest one (JDs), they said they will probably cover the bill for a dyno-tune. I have the old chip in with no problems except the shifting at WOT for now. I will call my local ford dealer about a LMAF tomorrow, do I need a new mounting bracket or filter with that??? *** Do you still have the Art Carr Valvebody??? ****_-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------strokedorblown - thanks for the advice, I don't think that is going to be an option Paxton gives me. I am kind of interested in seeing my before-after #s with a dyno-tune anyway. thanks all
 

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Well, that is GREAT News if Paxton is going to pay for the Dynotune then you can't go wrong and it will be less money out of your pocket. ;) WOW, I am impressed..... I didn't expect them to step up to the plate like that. Now that's great customer service....

As far as the Lightning MAF goes.... I don't know how the inlet tube on the Paxton runs into the Head unit. If you get the 90mm unit you will more than likely have to get some kind of adapter or reducer to make it work with your present pipe...
Your present Airfilter/cleaner should still fit the MAF just fine...
It's the outlet that will have to be made to fit...
OR, instead of the 90mm MAF you could just get an 80 mm Lightning MAF. They do come in both sizes... The 80 mm will be a direct replacement and no adapters or reducers will be necessary.
It will flow almost as much air as the 90mm unit. It's actually what I had on my car before I got the Pro M 77 mm unit... I couldn't make the 90mm unit fit with my Anderson Powerpipe.
They do now make an adapter for the 90mm MAF but I was in a hurry and needed it to work right away...
The choice is yours... The 80mm will be less hassle to install but may flow slightly less air than the 90mm unit.. Personally, I don't think it really matters...

Don't change the MAF until you are at the Dynoshop... The car will not start with the new MAF in place. So take it to the Dynoshop and then install the MAF so they can adjust the EEC function in order to make it work with your car.....

Sorry, I no longer have my Valvebody... Sold it already...
If I were closer I would come over and we could do the Jerry Mod.
It's the cheapest way of getting your car to shift firmer under WOT and to get that chirp you are after... Actually my car with the Bauman engineering shift kit almost chirped too much..
Whenever the car shifted at the track from 1st the 2nd it got that chirp and it got a little squirly on me... It actually also chirped from 2nd to 3rd at the Track with street tires... With my Nittos I didn't have that problem...

Let us know how things work out with the Dynotune...
Keep us posted!

Thanks Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Tom, we'll know for sure tomorrow if they really do make good on this deal, I think they will do the right thing. I like the price of the Jerry mod, but I also like the simple plug and play of a valve body. As far as the maf goes, after I get word from Paxton, I'll ask the tuner what he prefers I use. I like the no hassle approach of the 80mm Lmaf, but I'll go with what they are comfortable with. *** Yor aren't that far, 14 hours there, couple hours to do the Jerry mod, 14 hous back, just in time for Eagles kick-off if I leave Saturday morning towards Indy and you don't mind staying up late ***
 

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00whiteGTvert said:
Thanks Tom, we'll know for sure tomorrow if they really do make good on this deal, I think they will do the right thing. I like the price of the Jerry mod, but I also like the simple plug and play of a valve body. As far as the maf goes, after I get word from Paxton, I'll ask the tuner what he prefers I use. I like the no hassle approach of the 80mm Lmaf, but I'll go with what they are comfortable with. *** Yor aren't that far, 14 hours there, couple hours to do the Jerry mod, 14 hous back, just in time for Eagles kick-off if I leave Saturday morning towards Indy and you don't mind staying up late ***
Actually if you come over on the weekend of the 25th.. Jerry himself can do the Jerry mod for you :D Or come on by anytime and I will do it.. No problem ;) 2 hours is about right. Taking the pan off and draining the fluid is the messiest part.. YUCK...
That's why I installed a drain plug after the first time I had the Pan off to install the valve body....

It is a lot simpler to do a valve body swap but the Jerry mod is a lot cheaper :D.... and from what I hear very effective...

Good luck and let us know how the sage continues.....

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update - Paxton called me at 11:30am (8:30am their time), they are going to cover $200 cost towards a dyno-tune. They feel a dyno-tune is the only way to get this problem resolved, they do not want me to go with a mail order chip. I feel this is very fair, as a dyno-tune for optimum performance is something I would have eventually had to do anyway. All I need to do now is put a boost gauge on, pick up a maf the tuner recommends and schedule an appointment. *** I think Paxton deserves a lot of credit for accepting responsibility and providing a fair solution, Thanks Paxton!!! ***
 

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That's fair. I was surprised to hear they planned on doing anything. Basically they are giving you a credit back for the supplied chip.

While you are adding some things, I would take this opportunity before doing the dyno-tune to get those 42# injectors. You are going to do it eventually, so might as well do it now to avoid any additional tuning in the future.

Sting Can you explain why when installing a LMAF the car won't start unless the chip is set for it.
 

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RedGTvert said:

Sting Can you explain why when installing a LMAF the car won't start unless the chip is set for it.
Because once the car is tuned for one particular MAF it will not start if you put on a MAF that isn't calibrated for the Injectors and the EEC. Let's say his car right now is calibrated via the Paxton chip for the Stock MAF which is calibrated for 19lbs injectors there is no way that it will start with the LMAF which is calibrated for 42lbs injectors... Believe me.... Been there done that... ;)
Just ask the tuner if you don't believe me... He will tell you the same thing...

Rob, great news...... $200 bucks is pretty fair and should get you started with the dynotune... I am with RedGTvert... if you can afford the 42lbs injectors now I would go with them. It's always easier to make a big injector act smaller than a small injector act bigger ;) I would also recommend a set of 4.10 gears...
That will wake up your car and the tuner can set the shift points and speed to match the gear ratio.... If you have to choose between the injectors and the gears... I would do the gears first then the injectors later....

Either way Good Luck and let us know your before and after numbers....

Tom in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sting - you just made me think, right now the Paxton chip is tuned for my stock maf, so if the chip has a problem I can always take it off and drive with the stock computer (just not aggressively) because it is also set for the stock maf. Now, if I get a pro-m 80mm maf (recommended by all dyno-tuners and Fordchip) and have a new chip dyno-tuned for the pro-m, if there was a chip problem, would the car start on the stock computer program with the pro-m??? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Right now I have 2 autologic chips, both tuned for the stock maf as back-ups. I will have 1 reburned and keep the other in case of emergency. Even then I can always use the stock computer as a back-up. Can the car be dyno-tuned with the stock maf safely??? Will a new pro-m maf make that much more power than a stock maf? What is the actual size of a stock maf?----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I am probably going to buy a new plastic pro-m 80mm maf calibrated for 30# injectors ($350) and have the car dyno-tuned onto one of the Paxton chips, maybe for like an extra $50 they can put the program on the other chip in case of a problem???-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------At this point I am a little frustrated, I don't think I will spend money on gears, 42# injectors (or any other mod) on top of the dyno-tune and possible pro-m maf until I am sure the car will run correctly. The only other mod I am considering at this point is a catted mid-pipe, but I think that can go on after the dyno-tune as it is not that much of a difference, correct me if I am wrong.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Truthfully, I would just like to take the car over as is and have it dyno-tuned, without spending any extra money on any mods (not even a new maf) just to see if they can get the car to run and shift better. PLEASE PEOPLE, I NEED TO DECIDE BY MONDAY AND BOOK A DYNO APPT ASAP - WHAT SHOULD I DO???
 

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First off, I would advise agains the Pro M 80mm Plastic MAF.
I had two of those crap POS.... The first one I bought in the beginning before the Supercharger believing it would make more power.. Well, it didn't and for some reason the calibration was off. I put the stock unit back on and it ran fine...
So I sold the Pro M on E-bay....

Then I got the Supercharger and was told that a Pro M would make a difference... So I ventured out and once again ordered a Pro M 80mm Plastic MAF.... Well this one was worse than the first. The Calibration was totally off and the tuner in Cincy couldn't make it work... I sent it back 3 times for recalibration and they never got it right... Even Jerry and the Fordchip guys couldn't tune in this 80mm Pro M... It seems Pro M in the beginning had some problems with the Calibration on Returnless Fuel System cars.. Well, I sold the Pro M once again and bought an 80mm Lightning MAF.. That was a lot better and it worked with my set up... The only thing when I got it dynotuned was that the Meter started to reach it's limit.... And Fordchip told me that I am about to Peg my meter and needed something better for my kind of HP... The 90mm would've flowed about 5% more air but that wasn't going to be enough.. I didn't want to spend a big chunk on another MAF so I checked on E-Bay and found a used Aluminum 77mm Pro M which was on a 99 Cobra... that was making over 500 HP... The guy only wanted 150 bucks for it shipped... Well, I told him my experience with PRO M and he agreed to send the unit to me and let me try it and if it didn't work to send it back to him. Well, this unit was much more precise and had better electronics and was a straight through design... It flowed a lot more air than the Plastic 80mm unit and Jerry was able to calibrate the EEC for this Pro M without a hitch.
He told me that his MAF will be all I ever need and my Meter pegging days were over... ;)

My advise to you is.... Check E-bay for some 77mm or 87 mm Aluminum PRO M MAF's Don't buy the 80 mm Plastic POS units they sell. They might have improved but I would stay away from them... If and when you decide to buy one go with either the 77, 87 or the Pro M Univer models.... You can't go wrong with them.

Your Stock Unit is an 80mm MAF.. It is just a lot more restrictive than the Pro M or even the LMAF units... If you look into your stock MAF you will see a Post going all the way from top to bottom.... The LMAF's only have a very short post... The Aluminum 77 and 87 Pro M's have only a round sensor area and the Univer is a total Flow through and has no restrictions....

Since you really want to safe money at this stage... Just go ahead and use your Stock MAF... It will be okay up to about 350-360 HP... After that it will peg the meter and once it does that the EEC has to guess how much Fuel to deliver at a given Airflow...
And believe me you don't want the computer to guess with a Supercharger... A little too lean of a condition and your motor will be a doorstop... I have driven my car with the stock MAF for about a year and was making around 358 HP at the time... with my Automatic.. so you should be fine for now....

Now, don't expect miracles... Especially with the Stock gears and the Automatic. My Supercharged Stang behaved just like Stock until I got into the boost... but then watch out.... I never had any trouble beating my friend off the line or in the top end, however my friend with his stock GT and a 5 Speed always beat me on a 25mph roll on..... At least until I caught up to him... One reason is that your Automatic will not shift down to 1st gear after 20mph.. That is a safety feature because the rpms would rise a lot with the Supercharger in First..
This gives the 5 Speed an advantage over the Automatic... for about 1 or 2 seconds. Once the rpms catch up you will be all over him and pass him like he was standing still..... My advice.. Don't race from a Roll on.... Just from a dead stop and you should be okay ;)

Now go out there and get that Dynotune.....

Tom in Indy

PS: No your car will not run with the Pro M calibrated for 30lbs injectors and your stock computer or any of the chips you have.
Since the chips and the stock computer are calibrated for your Stock MAF which is calibrated for 19lbs injectors... Don't worry about the MAF for now...

2.) If you can... put on the X or H pipe on prior to the tune.. It may not make that much of a difference but it may lean out your mixture just a tad which may be enough to cause some problems especially with a Supercharger... I would recommend the Magnaflow catted X-pipe... It is an excellent piece! I have the Bassani Catted X and my friend the Magnaflow X and his looks like a lot better quality and the fit was perfect.... To be honest the sound didn't change hardly at all when I put the Bassani X in there... The biggest difference came when I swapped to the Maganflow Cat Back with Magnapack Mufflers...
Also if you do have the X Pipe installed the tuner can turn off the Check engine lights you will trip... It will happen even with the Catted X pipes... They just flow a lot more air and the cats are less restrictive... A good tuner can turn the light off for that reason and eliminate the need for Mil eliminators...

3.) Why not sell those chips and get a Multi Flip Switch.. I am sure your tuner has one or can get one... That way you can have an agressive tune and a mild street tune all on one chip.. Then you can switch back and forth without always taking the EEC out and swapping chips...
 
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