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Discussion Starter #1
During this time of social distancing, I thought I'd hang out with my car "cyber buddies" and just ask this simple question. I'm sure I can paint it a lot of different ways but I'd like to hear how some of you did it (and what you used) and how you liked the results.

The 8.8 is coming out of my rust damaged 1991 GT and going into my 1991 4-cyl coupe. I removed the coupe's 4-cyl rear end last week and I'm going to start work on removing the GT's rear end. I ordered the GT brand new back in 1991 so I know it's a good rear end with a 3.08 gear. Currently it has SN95 length axles. Unfortunately, they're stock, 28 spline.
 

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Personally, I washed mine with full strength Castrol super clean. Use a wire brush on any scale , wash again , let dry .
I used chassis black in spray cans , and installed it .
Mine is no show car , just a driver , so no one is looking up my rear ...馃槅
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Personally, I washed mine with full strength Castrol super clean. Use a wire brush on any scale , wash again , let dry .
I used chassis black in spray cans , and installed it .
Mine is no show car , just a driver , so no one is looking up my rear ...馃槅
馃槀馃槀馃槀!!!

Thanks for telling me how you painted yours.
 

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I prepped pretty close to the same. I鈥檝e used high temp enamel and rustoleum hammer paint most recently. Looks wise I like the hammer paint. Time will tell how it holds up. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Earlier today, I made an order with Summit Racing for this:

Chassis Shield and catalyst

I'm going to degrease the rear end and then hit it with some thick wire wheels on my heavy duty, 4 1/2" grinder. I'm going to clean up my 2001 Mustang spindles and paint them with this paint as well. Why not? I still have to successfully drill my 5/8" holes in the spindles for my Maximum Motorsports bolt through bumpsteer kit.
 

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I took my rear out, degreased it, wire brushed it, and the POR-15 on top of that.

That was 10 years, and looking at it recently it's held up VERY well
 

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When I did gears last summer i took mine out, washed it, wire wheeled, sanded all rust off with maybe 120 grit or 80 grit (I cant remember). Then finally I painted it with vht chassis/roll bar paint, It says on the can it is a epoxy type paint. Then finally I even clear coated it with three coats of clear.
1057936
 

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I swapped in an 8.8 that was badly rusty and scaly. Put the axle on three jack stands and used an air descaling tool to knock most of the loose stuff off. Then used Eastwood's rust remover liberally, then sprayed their rust converter, followed by their rust encapsulater. Could have finished with a top coat but the rust encapsulator is very durable and a semi-gloss so I left it. Been on the car for more than 15 years now and the paint is still holding up, with very little rust despite the winter driving.

If using rattle cans to paint like I did, I recommend buying one of those can attachments that convert the can into sort of a paint gun. Really saves your finger and actually makes using rattle cans a bunch easier and more precise.
 

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I wire wheeled and blasted mine when I had it out for a rebuild. I was going to use POR15 but I came across a local car guy trying to launch a powder coating shop so I gave him an opportunity. I went with a gloss black and it came out awesome.


1058040
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yesterday, I sprayed the rear with degreaser and worked it with a scrub brush and an old tooth brush. I spent over an hour scouring it. After spraying it down with water and letting it air dry, I removed the brake components. Of course I got brake fluid on my clean differential so I'm going to take 10 mins to do a little more degreasing.

I'm hoping to get after it with a wire wheel later this afternoon. My Summit Racing Chassis Shield epoxy paint is here waiting to be applied. I'm just going to brush it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW, my pinion seal is leaking. How hard are they to replace? I need to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been a little under the weather for over a week. I don't have the common symptoms of the china virus except for the cough. Needless to say, I've been home quarantining myself and staying away from work. I'm not one to lay in bed even when I'm sick so I've been online researching this leaky pinion seal.

I've found plenty of write ups and even a good YouTube video showing how to mark the pinion nut, counting the turns to remove the nut, then after replacing the seal, turning the pinion nut the same exact number of turns and then lining up the marks. This will preserve the preload. I think that I'm going to use this method.

I wore out two wire "cups" today while removing the rust from my car's rear end. I used some smaller wheels on a hand held drill to get in the tighter spots. Still, there are more areas than I'd like that I wasn't able to get a wire wheel into. A stiff wire brush was pretty much useless. I may have to go at it manually with sandpaper. I'd use wet or dry paper and water but I don't want to get surface rust back on the rest of the rear end. If I had some more wire cups, I could knock the surface rust back off but I don't. Until I get over this illness it's best that I don't go shopping anywhere, i.e. Harbor Freight.
 
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